Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mmm... I'm not very convienced till you get a 3inch hard intake pipe made with a high prssure actautor installed.

If that still doesn't work you can trade it back for a SS high flow.

But either way its won't have stock alike response

I understand this Will one of those hard rubber like just jap intake ones do ?? will be doing both above and my retune with injectors and afm with in next month or so.

Is the ss looking like it will make more power on less boost or ?

The Just jap ones don't fit. Have a read at page 55 to 61 there are plenty of info on how to setup a hard intake pipe and where AFM and BOV should go.

Also stock actuator starts to open around 2psi and high pressure actuator starts to open at 15psi. That makes a difference in response as well.

How much is a high pressure actuator for an rb20 turbo? It has been highflowed by gcg but I'd like to give one a shot, see if it can hold 18psi to redline.

the stock rb20 actuators tend to open later than the rb25 ones, around what psi do they start opening in your experience? it holds about 13psi with no controller if that helps.

Edited by Rolls

yea mine holds 14 no controller thats y i didnt thing a highr pressure one would help seeming it peaks at 15.4 and only drops to 14 but guess ill give it a try

Need to run wastegate controller to hold that sort of boost to red line on a RB20det turbo. I haven't had much experience with RB20 actuators as most of what we've got are Rb25 turbos. To test it simply hook on a gauge to a compressor nozzle and see at what psi it starts to move. RB25det once pretty much started to let loose just under 2psi, this is assume there is no back pressure. With back pressure I think it starts to let go as soon as it hits boost.

For people whom orders bolton Rb20det turbos we normally modify ATR28G1 / G2 in .64 rear with T3x flange and 6 bolt patterns (current ATR43SS profile). Those are close to stock alike response and rated to around the 200~230rwkws mark.

I'm working on a drawing of a adjustable actuator at moment, which is basically an reversed drawing of an external gate that you can change spings or load the spring with a pressure plate.

Also ATR43 is now available in 3x different bolt patterns:

Naked suitable for externally gated application, Vband internally gated, and Nissan RB2x OEM. They are priced referring to the amount of time, material and work required.

I've updated prices for them in page 1. The ATR43G3 .82 rear with .70 comp externally gated in T3x flange and 5 bolt T4x dump pattern is $1100 inc GST, oil line is $80.

Stao, how far away from being complete is the SS model for RB20 style.

Im looking for the most ideal turbo for street, which will make the most of my 440cc injectors. So, with a limit of 440 odd hp. Forged engine, gtr crank and rods bring capacity to 2.2. tomei valve springs.

SS is already complete there are 2x profiles one's. Both in .64 rear with .60 comp. Those won't make huge amount of power on RB20dets but good for a responsive street / drift car.

atr43ss1.JPG

atr43ss2.JPG

That billet SS with ball bearing I've built is aimed at RB25det.

At moment not. only been told its responsive on road by other customers. But I do have some results of them on CA18det, not sure if that helps.

Those are $1450 inc GST, oil line and high pressure actuator. I have result of it on Rb25det and CA18det only.

The difference between the RB20det profile and Rb25det turbo profile (the billet BB) is the turbine wheel and rear housing.

Reason I don't use the billet wheel as a more responsive alternative please refer to the drawing of the billet wheel in page 69.

Thinner hub = larger blades = greater flow per rotation = greater HP = greater resistance per rotation = greater lag

How ever on a RB25det this tinny amount of lag is not very noticeable, but definitely made more mid range, I don't think it would peek as much power as the ATR43G3s but definitely fast on road with excellent driving ability.

Need to run wastegate controller to hold that sort of boost to red line on a RB20det turbo. I haven't had much experience with RB20 actuators as most of what we've got are Rb25 turbos. To test it simply hook on a gauge to a compressor nozzle and see at what psi it starts to move. RB25det once pretty much started to let loose just under 2psi, this is assume there is no back pressure. With back pressure I think it starts to let go as soon as it hits boost.

How does your wastegate controller work? Also do I need to send my turbo in or is it something you can just mail out?

I will need to modify your turbine housing for that to work. So you need to send in your turbine housing.

yeah too much hassle, if I was going to do that I would just get a neo 25 turbo and go for an upgrade, cheers anyway.

Can be ft into stock housings, but I would perfer to have our .64 custom nozzled T3x Nissan patterned housing for best out come.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...