Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 335
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You can have a good understanding of an ECU's capability by reading it's manual. Power FC manual is readily available on the net, as would be the other ECU's manuals presumably.

Water temp compensation means just what it says really. When the engine is cold it feeds the engine more fuel. As the engine warms up it reduces the fuel fed to the engine till the normal operating temperature is reached.

Sydneykid , you now nothing about the Wolf plug and play as it can do these things and more inc boost MAP or MAF air temp comp and very good idle control etc etc and it uses all the factory sensors and can be used with a hand controller or lap top( i would hate to tune about 4000 sites with a hand set)

People should check the facts before they post bull like you did.

Down load the software and eat your words.

Well this has been a long and interesting post, I've learnt a little, and decided to hold off buying those new injectors for a little while ;-)

However, it's better to be safe than sorry, since leaning out your fuel can be hazardous to your engine's health.

two cents>

Originally posted by Steve-SST

Next time Martin or any other Magazine people are in Perth they should come in to my shop and test some of our cars themselves. Some writers have their own shops selling other products so they support what they sell.

anyone who thinks otherwise has issues.

buster if you are Morg's mate as ur sig indicates congrats on the awesome time ... he told me about it.

in response to your question .... some people want dyno queens only. in no way am i suggesting anyone here is like that but thats one explanation.

maybe the rest of the package is lacking ... look at Donnon's ex soarer .... 300 plus rwkw in a manual soarer ... best was a 13.0 - very poor result, but the car just jept having issues.

im sure there are many more things then just that but theres a couple

tom thanks mate, but to be honest we all have our problems and nightmares with our biggish hp cars but some of us keep working and trying different things till we get there, and can show the full potential of our cars, others I'm sure make up excuses becuse there cars just aren't up to the task even though they've got a dyno sheet saying they've got the HP to do it,

Sydneykid, I have to agree with Steve on this one, I don't think your comparing the new Wolf 3D Ver4, as it shits all over the PFC in so many areas. I'm not going to start an ECU debate but you do have the facts wrong about this one.

Buster, While I'm impressed with the time you have achieved I'm sure you'll understand that not all of us need to rush out to do a 1/4mile to prove anything. I will be taking it to the Motorplex on November the 22nd, when there is an ANDRA drag meet with a fully prepped track, until then you'll just have to hold your horses:D

rb20-calais, I'm sure you'll be happy with the Wolf aslong as you can find a good tuner. It's the same as any ECU, if you don't have a good tuner you won't get good results:D

No Steve sorry it wasn't just aimed at you, as I know you will race and have raced in the past, theres plenty of people I know with big power though that don't race or have raced and just can't get the times because all they've got is a dyno sheet hahaha and not a well tuned car with good midrange/useable power

Your a lucky guy though getting a fully prepped track to race on, Hopefully soon with the new drag strip being opened in Sydney we'll get a fair go too and more then 3 runs a night/fortnight

Yeah, we have a very good facility here. Open racing on Wednesday nights and Sundays. Then they also have started a new class called Sports Compacts (i.e. Jap cars), where you can do head-head racing on a fully prepped track, they also have dyno shootouts, bikini babes etc:D

The 2-way mechanical diff will be going in soon, then all I need is a set of decent tyres and I'm ready to race:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...