Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello

does any one know what the pearl white colour is called on the series 2 stagea? as i am after just a small amount like a touch up pen.

just take the colour code off the manufacturers plate to your local autobarn or similar auto parts house. They should be able to match it and get the correct colour for you.regards MYM35.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264089-series-2-paint/#findComment-4516787
Share on other sites

QT1, on your build plate, you will never match the pearl finish with a touch up pen, as it is a multi layer process. I bought a QT1 touch up pen in japan, its just another shade of white.

yeah thats probably all that i need. I am fixing the rust under the mirrors and there is just a touch where the mirrors don't cover so i dont really see the

need to go get some mixed and all that

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264089-series-2-paint/#findComment-4516809
Share on other sites

Hey punk72.

Check out the buyers guide on the main page.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bu...n-C-t92065.html

I asume this means ur looking at getting rid of the rust. U got any quotes yet?

Best of luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264089-series-2-paint/#findComment-4517265
Share on other sites

Hey punk72.

Check out the buyers guide on the main page.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bu...n-C-t92065.html

I asume this means ur looking at getting rid of the rust. U got any quotes yet?

Best of luck.

thanks for that, I took off both mirrors and there wasn't that much rust there so its a DIY. the driver side had next to nothing but the passenger side was a

little worse, 99% of it is under the mirror so you cant see any of the repairs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264089-series-2-paint/#findComment-4517709
Share on other sites

mmmm where to start, driver side was good nearly no rust all. passenger side had a fair bit, 90% was under the mirror but there was alot of metal missing.

That was all good did the rust converter and primer (easy). as for the tiny bit that you could see i thought i could just sand it back and trickle a bit of paint

and bobs your uncle. well it turns out bob isnt my uncle. by the time i got to fresh metal it had turned from 5mm space to 40mm space and as its pearl white i am starting to think i should have taken it to the body works!!

Its not that bad, It is painted and sanded so from a few feet away you cant notice it but up close you can. At least the rust is fixed, I will take it to a body works and see if they can do a better job with the paint.

I should have taken some photos and done a step by step how not to paint :thumbsup:

Edited by Punk72
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264089-series-2-paint/#findComment-4521335
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...