Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Strange about that one Trent, when i called up they said contact the mob up in QLD (which i assume is performance springs)

and said they dont deal with springs....

anyone specific i should speak to?

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im about to test some camtech cams over the next few weeks, ive heard great feedback and im sure they are just profiled off popular grinds anyway...... I tried a few sets of crow SR cams awhile back and i wont go there again.... disaster.

as for valve springs for your rb or sr stay away from the ones you listed...... they soften up way to quick. Ive been burnt a few times now and since switching back to Ferrea / Brian Crower and the jap gear ive had ZERO issues. We used to use a lot of the performance springs in the v8's we built (big solid rollers) and even then they required swapping out more often than the us-of-a stuff. Then again thier the cheapest and most shops make good coin outta them....

Just out of interest from those who are using them have they had the springs tested after they were removed? i have some kelford ones here for a 26 im about to have tested (done one full season) it will be interesting to see how they fared.

are performance springs and PSI springs the same company?

have you used any of the supertech stuff trent?

marko, do you know what shim size was needed with the cams? i'm guessing its a pretty big one caus u didnt list aftermarket buckets... also what springs did u go for?

big revs on that setup & ur going to be tearing it down regularily to keep it alive

Camtech do a spring and titanium retainer set... might be worth a call? we have used 2JZ ($550rrp) and SR20 ($450rrp), im yet to use their RB kit so im not sure of the price.

when i spoke to malcolm from camtech about my cams, he recommended that i go via 'performance springs' for valve springs

he stated that these springs are best for the gtr - interesting feedback considering camtech actually sell their own springs as well

marko, do you know what shim size was needed with the cams? i'm guessing its a pretty big one caus u didnt list aftermarket buckets... also what springs did u go for?

big revs on that setup & ur going to be tearing it down regularily to keep it alive

shims, buckets, retainers & valves were kept stock - no need to upgrade these bits on my head as recommended by pro engines

there will be no regular maintenance on my engine, remembering its an rb26/30 i wont need to rev it as hard as my rb26 BUT if i want to - it will be on tap :)

when i spoke to malcolm from camtech about my cams, he recommended that i go via 'performance springs' for valve springs

he stated that these springs are best for the gtr - interesting feedback considering camtech actually sell their own springs as well

i just found out why... the Camtech SR20 titanium spring and retainer set i just received is actually BC gear (brian crower gear) :rofl:

Maybe all their jap valve train gear is just BC rebranded? i think the JZ stuff we used previous was very BC like too, and since BC does not make RB26 gear i reckon their solution is Performance springs... something i'm not happy to use..

  • 2 weeks later...
Out of my league with big cams but what is being done with valve sizes , is it worth investigating oversize valves and slightly less aggressive cam profiles in RB26 heads ?

Just curious , cheers A .

very much so in my experience. but there is only room for 1mm oversize in the 26 head

very much so in my experience. but there is only room for 1mm oversize in the 26 head

That's what I'd herd as well , around 1mm . It doesn't sound like very much but being on the periphery of the valve means it probably makes a very real difference to how much gas can get past them with opened up or larger seats/throats .

It may be a case of larger valves with shortish high lift cams (provided the valves don't touch on the overlap phase) may work well .

Personal bent I suppose but I like the idea of really well modified heads and just barely enough cams to get the job done , probably because its difficult to get around cams that have gone too far duration and overlap wise .

Cheers A .

  • 1 year later...
dont forget my 26 was to be a drag engine, with 9200rpm limit... i had hks 272 with 10.2 lift... these cams would be well good to go to 9500rpm...

my 32 gtr has gibson group a cams, same as in the bathurst gtr's, i have -10 on that engine also, these cams will be a shitload better for drivability, thaink about it, if the bathurst gtr's used them they would have had one thing in mind, "torque" and still produced big numbers, and they were 26's not 30's, remember torque is what u want, if u focus on achiving this your car will be a animal....

Hi Mate

Can you please give me the gibson motorsport cam profiles as I would like to get kelford cams to grind me a set. . Your help would much appreciated. .

Edited by NZR32GT-R
Hi Mate

Can you please give me the gibson motorsport cam profiles as I would like to get kelford cams to grind me a set. . Your help would much appreciated. .

this is like asking colonel sanders for his secret kfc recipe - colonel probably didnt even know himself :P

this is like asking colonel sanders for his secret kfc recipe - colonel probably didnt even know himself :P

LOL! ! you stated some specs on the first page of the thread.

Inlet 256 @ 9.5mm lift

Exhaust 278 @ 9.75mm lift

Where did you get this profile information from?

Also I am sure some one has a set of these cams & would be willing to share the profiles. .

I am realy interested in these cams as I have a set of group A turbos as well & I think these cams would suit them better than some Tomei Poncam Type Bs. .

Edited by NZR32GT-R
i am all for sharing info, although, i dont think anyone knows the real profiles of the cams, my post was only what i have heard (is it true though, not sure)

Kewl no problem yea I just wanted to confirm hopefuly some one will give up the secret :-D. .

but the profile you specified sounds like it should work well with group A turbos. .

How would you compare them to the Tomei's?

Tomei Specs:

Inlet 260 @ 9.15mm lift

Exhaust 260 @ 9.15mm lift

Is it better to run more duration on the RB26 as from what I have read the exhaust valves are realy small & only flow like 65% when compared to the inlet valves. .

Kewl no problem yea I just wanted to confirm hopefuly some one will give up the secret :-D. .

but the profile you specified sounds like it should work well with group A turbos. .

How would you compare them to the Tomei's?

Tomei Specs:

Inlet 260 @ 9.15mm lift

Exhaust 260 @ 9.15mm lift

Is it better to run more duration on the RB26 as from what I have read the exhaust valves are realy small & only flow like 65% when compared to the inlet valves. .

flow your head and cam it to suit the flow split, simple solution.

Maybe all their jap valve train gear is just BC rebranded? i think the JZ stuff we used previous was very BC like too, and since BC does not make RB26 gear i reckon their solution is Performance springs... something i'm not happy to use..

Just interested as to why?

Can anyone share their experience with the Lewis Engines valve springs? http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod7.htm

I thought they use Performance Springs?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...