Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate, next time just select second gear

make sure your window is down

make sure your right foot is firmly pressed to the floor

and remember to shake your fist out the wondow while shouting "DORRRIFTOOOOOOO"

hahahahaha +1

Also yes If u knew how to drive :cool:

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Haha its awesome :(

I went from my toyota paseo to my skyline and driving it in the wet for the first time is scary....the second that turbo gets any boost you start going sideways and sh*t yourself lol

Its good to learn how to control your car in the wet and know your limits aswell....

and I was on the way up to the petrol station. was on the road, going 50km/h, braked down to 30, entered roundabout, got halfway through, let go of accelerator, turned to go around and started to lose the back end, corrected twice and was back on the road. OMG HEARTATTACK.

apart from my driving errors, what should i look at to fix the traction problems? tyres obviously, hicas maybe? the thing should be serviced anyway at this point.

auto r34 gt

There seem to have been a load of half answers to your questions and a lot of other stuff besides. In an attempt to pull it all together, please allow me to summarise - and hopefully answer your questions:

a) We don't get much rain here in WA. We also have loads of stone in the tarmac, so it does not melt in the heat. Deposits of rubber, oil and diesel/petrol residues build up on the tarmac/stone. Add water, via a passing shower, and it can become a skating rink in places. Roundabouts are particular favourites because people have fuel spillages and leave more deposits due to going around the corner.

b) Someone already mentioned "classic lift-off oversteer". If you are in a corner and lift off the gas, the balance of the car moves forward. I believe that the science is that it actually moves forward at a tangent to your turn, so a component of the force acts to the side as weight lessens on the back wheels, so on slippy stuff they then slide out.

c) If you have bald tyres, loss of traction is more likely. Some crappy makes of tyres don't perform too well in such conditions, even when they have loads of apparent tread. No tyres perform very well in such conditions.

d) Bugger all to do with HICAS, especially in an R34 which is third generation HICAS. If you are a high performance driver, who has developed a feel for a car over years of driving, you may be able to notice when HICAS does something in a high speed corner. Otherwise, for mere mortals and average drivers (and by the laws of maths, the majority of us are average drivers), you will not be able to tell when HICAS is doing its magic, but like many of the electronic driver aids out there, it is almost certainly helping you.

e) I would be surprised if you have any aggressive limited slip diff in your car. If it is factory, it may have a viscous LSD, not an aggressive mechanical one. So ignore that.

f) If you have non-factory suspension, especially anything that is set rock-hard, then that would not have helped. All that rock hard suspension does is rattle your teeth, destroy the normal, everyday road-holding and give you bragging rights for the few track days you manage to get to. If you have factory suspension, then that ain't part of the problem.

So, in summary: WA roads are very slippy in the wet; your tyres are worth checking; don't make any sudden control changes in a corner. Forget the rest.

Hope this all helps. :P

Cheers. :P

be careful overtaking in auto as well. when mine was auto i went to overtake a bus in the wet and it kicked back on me and you recon you had a heart attack. sideways pass a bus on the opposite side of the road = not good :P

hehehe...wish i could have seen it.

There seem to have been a load of half answers to your questions and a lot of other stuff besides. In an attempt to pull it all together, please allow me to summarise - and hopefully answer your questions:

a) We don't get much rain here in WA. We also have loads of stone in the tarmac, so it does not melt in the heat. Deposits of rubber, oil and diesel/petrol residues build up on the tarmac/stone. Add water, via a passing shower, and it can become a skating rink in places. Roundabouts are particular favourites because people have fuel spillages and leave more deposits due to going around the corner.

b) Someone already mentioned "classic lift-off oversteer". If you are in a corner and lift off the gas, the balance of the car moves forward. I believe that the science is that it actually moves forward at a tangent to your turn, so a component of the force acts to the side as weight lessens on the back wheels, so on slippy stuff they then slide out.

c) If you have bald tyres, loss of traction is more likely. Some crappy makes of tyres don't perform too well in such conditions, even when they have loads of apparent tread. No tyres perform very well in such conditions.

d) Bugger all to do with HICAS, especially in an R34 which is third generation HICAS. If you are a high performance driver, who has developed a feel for a car over years of driving, you may be able to notice when HICAS does something in a high speed corner. Otherwise, for mere mortals and average drivers (and by the laws of maths, the majority of us are average drivers), you will not be able to tell when HICAS is doing its magic, but like many of the electronic driver aids out there, it is almost certainly helping you.

e) I would be surprised if you have any aggressive limited slip diff in your car. If it is factory, it may have a viscous LSD, not an aggressive mechanical one. So ignore that.

f) If you have non-factory suspension, especially anything that is set rock-hard, then that would not have helped. All that rock hard suspension does is rattle your teeth, destroy the normal, everyday road-holding and give you bragging rights for the few track days you manage to get to. If you have factory suspension, then that ain't part of the problem.

So, in summary: WA roads are very slippy in the wet; your tyres are worth checking; don't make any sudden control changes in a corner. Forget the rest.

Hope this all helps. ;)

Cheers. :ninja:

I couldnt agree with you more :D

  • 2 weeks later...

worst place to be for the first rain after a hot streak or for any rain is the roundabout on east pde in east perth just after farmer fwy

lol u have to take that at -15km or ur going to go sideways. lol first time around there i just rained and went to go around like normal speed hahaha i was sideways all the way round to brook st i got some funny looks that day.

also i know a girl trying to get on to Mirrabooka Ave from Boyare Ave after first rain she lost it panicked and went into a tree she was fine but the car was a complete totaled

I love the rain and my hard suspension... not. Sure it handles fantastically in the dry (which WA mostly is), but in the wet it becomes near impossible to drive normally. Even letting the clutch out near stall point on a slight incline and barely touching the throttle it will nearly always spin the wheels for a little bit. Just have to power through it and ignore the dirty looks from nearby drivers :) Anyway, no accidents but I definitely have respect for wet roads and don't do anything stupid (at least when there are other people on the road :)). I drive slower/brake earlier than a grandma when it rains haha

Yeah I have pretty stiff suspension too [car came like that] and going through a roundabout I've taken for over 6 years now for the first time I lost control... horrendously scary when you don't mean to do it. Luckily it was @ 3am after work and I was able to counter-steer/fishtail it till it came to a stop (still on my side) so I was pretty happy with the end result.

It is not your suspension, it is your tyres. Cheap shit tyres have stuff all grip in wet/greasy conditions. That is why you spend money on good tyres as opposed to spending money on panel beating.
+1

So are both of you saying high end coilovers which are built to be STIFF... DO NOT affect your traction in any way at all?

Somehow i doubt this. If anything, its going to be a combination of the two. Having shagged suspension will also lessen your traction, as well as having over stiff suspension in the car in COMBINATION with sub standard or worn tyres.

Obviously this is because when you take off from a stand start, the car is unable to "squat" down which in doing so provides more contact with the road, hence more traction. (Which is why most draggers will use STOCK suspension, as its perfect for achieveing this)

The coil overs I'm using now are extremely stiff this is becuase that are the "drift" series of the the HKS Hipermax, which really is meant for race use only. According to HKS, they are stiff to help the driver enable to initiate the drift. After this a "helper" spring which is built into the rear coilovers then help to press the tyres to the ground, giving the driver more "feeling and control" on how his or her car is going. Due to this, HKS does recommend that the car with this suspension fitted uses "high grip radial tires" to help offset this.

Having said this, I am running street tyres on my skyline. Fed 595SS. 235 FRont and 255 rear. When taking off in the wet ( at normal speeds and revs) SOMETIMES my rear tyres will spin a bit. This is a COMBINATION between Feds being not to great in the wet and my suspension set up being too stiff.

However, when cornering, as long as i take it slow and be careful my car will not spin out or anything extreme like that.

Thats My 2 cents on the matter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...