Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate, next time just select second gear

make sure your window is down

make sure your right foot is firmly pressed to the floor

and remember to shake your fist out the wondow while shouting "DORRRIFTOOOOOOO"

hahahahaha +1

Also yes If u knew how to drive :cool:

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Haha its awesome :(

I went from my toyota paseo to my skyline and driving it in the wet for the first time is scary....the second that turbo gets any boost you start going sideways and sh*t yourself lol

Its good to learn how to control your car in the wet and know your limits aswell....

and I was on the way up to the petrol station. was on the road, going 50km/h, braked down to 30, entered roundabout, got halfway through, let go of accelerator, turned to go around and started to lose the back end, corrected twice and was back on the road. OMG HEARTATTACK.

apart from my driving errors, what should i look at to fix the traction problems? tyres obviously, hicas maybe? the thing should be serviced anyway at this point.

auto r34 gt

There seem to have been a load of half answers to your questions and a lot of other stuff besides. In an attempt to pull it all together, please allow me to summarise - and hopefully answer your questions:

a) We don't get much rain here in WA. We also have loads of stone in the tarmac, so it does not melt in the heat. Deposits of rubber, oil and diesel/petrol residues build up on the tarmac/stone. Add water, via a passing shower, and it can become a skating rink in places. Roundabouts are particular favourites because people have fuel spillages and leave more deposits due to going around the corner.

b) Someone already mentioned "classic lift-off oversteer". If you are in a corner and lift off the gas, the balance of the car moves forward. I believe that the science is that it actually moves forward at a tangent to your turn, so a component of the force acts to the side as weight lessens on the back wheels, so on slippy stuff they then slide out.

c) If you have bald tyres, loss of traction is more likely. Some crappy makes of tyres don't perform too well in such conditions, even when they have loads of apparent tread. No tyres perform very well in such conditions.

d) Bugger all to do with HICAS, especially in an R34 which is third generation HICAS. If you are a high performance driver, who has developed a feel for a car over years of driving, you may be able to notice when HICAS does something in a high speed corner. Otherwise, for mere mortals and average drivers (and by the laws of maths, the majority of us are average drivers), you will not be able to tell when HICAS is doing its magic, but like many of the electronic driver aids out there, it is almost certainly helping you.

e) I would be surprised if you have any aggressive limited slip diff in your car. If it is factory, it may have a viscous LSD, not an aggressive mechanical one. So ignore that.

f) If you have non-factory suspension, especially anything that is set rock-hard, then that would not have helped. All that rock hard suspension does is rattle your teeth, destroy the normal, everyday road-holding and give you bragging rights for the few track days you manage to get to. If you have factory suspension, then that ain't part of the problem.

So, in summary: WA roads are very slippy in the wet; your tyres are worth checking; don't make any sudden control changes in a corner. Forget the rest.

Hope this all helps. :P

Cheers. :P

be careful overtaking in auto as well. when mine was auto i went to overtake a bus in the wet and it kicked back on me and you recon you had a heart attack. sideways pass a bus on the opposite side of the road = not good :P

hehehe...wish i could have seen it.

There seem to have been a load of half answers to your questions and a lot of other stuff besides. In an attempt to pull it all together, please allow me to summarise - and hopefully answer your questions:

a) We don't get much rain here in WA. We also have loads of stone in the tarmac, so it does not melt in the heat. Deposits of rubber, oil and diesel/petrol residues build up on the tarmac/stone. Add water, via a passing shower, and it can become a skating rink in places. Roundabouts are particular favourites because people have fuel spillages and leave more deposits due to going around the corner.

b) Someone already mentioned "classic lift-off oversteer". If you are in a corner and lift off the gas, the balance of the car moves forward. I believe that the science is that it actually moves forward at a tangent to your turn, so a component of the force acts to the side as weight lessens on the back wheels, so on slippy stuff they then slide out.

c) If you have bald tyres, loss of traction is more likely. Some crappy makes of tyres don't perform too well in such conditions, even when they have loads of apparent tread. No tyres perform very well in such conditions.

d) Bugger all to do with HICAS, especially in an R34 which is third generation HICAS. If you are a high performance driver, who has developed a feel for a car over years of driving, you may be able to notice when HICAS does something in a high speed corner. Otherwise, for mere mortals and average drivers (and by the laws of maths, the majority of us are average drivers), you will not be able to tell when HICAS is doing its magic, but like many of the electronic driver aids out there, it is almost certainly helping you.

e) I would be surprised if you have any aggressive limited slip diff in your car. If it is factory, it may have a viscous LSD, not an aggressive mechanical one. So ignore that.

f) If you have non-factory suspension, especially anything that is set rock-hard, then that would not have helped. All that rock hard suspension does is rattle your teeth, destroy the normal, everyday road-holding and give you bragging rights for the few track days you manage to get to. If you have factory suspension, then that ain't part of the problem.

So, in summary: WA roads are very slippy in the wet; your tyres are worth checking; don't make any sudden control changes in a corner. Forget the rest.

Hope this all helps. ;)

Cheers. :ninja:

I couldnt agree with you more :D

  • 2 weeks later...

worst place to be for the first rain after a hot streak or for any rain is the roundabout on east pde in east perth just after farmer fwy

lol u have to take that at -15km or ur going to go sideways. lol first time around there i just rained and went to go around like normal speed hahaha i was sideways all the way round to brook st i got some funny looks that day.

also i know a girl trying to get on to Mirrabooka Ave from Boyare Ave after first rain she lost it panicked and went into a tree she was fine but the car was a complete totaled

I love the rain and my hard suspension... not. Sure it handles fantastically in the dry (which WA mostly is), but in the wet it becomes near impossible to drive normally. Even letting the clutch out near stall point on a slight incline and barely touching the throttle it will nearly always spin the wheels for a little bit. Just have to power through it and ignore the dirty looks from nearby drivers :) Anyway, no accidents but I definitely have respect for wet roads and don't do anything stupid (at least when there are other people on the road :)). I drive slower/brake earlier than a grandma when it rains haha

Yeah I have pretty stiff suspension too [car came like that] and going through a roundabout I've taken for over 6 years now for the first time I lost control... horrendously scary when you don't mean to do it. Luckily it was @ 3am after work and I was able to counter-steer/fishtail it till it came to a stop (still on my side) so I was pretty happy with the end result.

It is not your suspension, it is your tyres. Cheap shit tyres have stuff all grip in wet/greasy conditions. That is why you spend money on good tyres as opposed to spending money on panel beating.
+1

So are both of you saying high end coilovers which are built to be STIFF... DO NOT affect your traction in any way at all?

Somehow i doubt this. If anything, its going to be a combination of the two. Having shagged suspension will also lessen your traction, as well as having over stiff suspension in the car in COMBINATION with sub standard or worn tyres.

Obviously this is because when you take off from a stand start, the car is unable to "squat" down which in doing so provides more contact with the road, hence more traction. (Which is why most draggers will use STOCK suspension, as its perfect for achieveing this)

The coil overs I'm using now are extremely stiff this is becuase that are the "drift" series of the the HKS Hipermax, which really is meant for race use only. According to HKS, they are stiff to help the driver enable to initiate the drift. After this a "helper" spring which is built into the rear coilovers then help to press the tyres to the ground, giving the driver more "feeling and control" on how his or her car is going. Due to this, HKS does recommend that the car with this suspension fitted uses "high grip radial tires" to help offset this.

Having said this, I am running street tyres on my skyline. Fed 595SS. 235 FRont and 255 rear. When taking off in the wet ( at normal speeds and revs) SOMETIMES my rear tyres will spin a bit. This is a COMBINATION between Feds being not to great in the wet and my suspension set up being too stiff.

However, when cornering, as long as i take it slow and be careful my car will not spin out or anything extreme like that.

Thats My 2 cents on the matter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...