Jump to content
SAU Community

Total Newbie With Bov Query

Greenwich-biker
 Share

Recommended Posts

Greenwich-biker Contributor

Greenwich-biker

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys...

Total newbie here, so pls excuse this dumb question - I wanna fit an aftermarket BOV to my R33 gts-t, so in preparation I blanked off the plumb back hose. This made the engine run very rough, and a fair bit of air hissed from the factory bov outlet on idle. Will this happen when the new bov (GFB basic) is fitted? Was this normal?

Thnx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265398-total-newbie-with-bov-query/
Share on other sites
Jared.r33 Newbie

Jared.r33

Posted
Posted

Hi there, yes that is normal, the stock blow off valve will leak air when driving off boost causing the engine to run roughly when the air return hose is not connected. they're not designed to vent to atmosphere. My car did the same thing but once you fit a aftermarket one it'll run normal again. I wouldn't recomend driving it with the stock blow off valve running vent to atmosphere either mate.

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

the aftermarket bov will most probably fit in the place of the factory one.

so until you have that ready to fit, unblock all hoses and leave the factory one on there as it is supposed to.

once you have the new bov, remove the stock one.

block off the big return hose.

attach the new bov and attach the small vacuum line to the new bov.

adjust it as required.

keep the stock bov..

you'll want it back soon

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
Posted

trust me,your car we stall,probably not straight away but it will.

everyone on here told me it would but i ignored them and stalled at an intersection and nearly got wiped out by a truck.

i don't know if this happens to every R-33 GTS-T but i have to get mine tuned for it.

am i right or wrong guys?

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

that's correct. it might not stall all the time but it will stall and when it does you will look like an idiot at the lights/intersection. an aftermarket MAF based ecu can be tuned to cover up the issue or a MAP based ecu which wont care what sort of bov or if you even have a bov on there.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
So true.

Hehe! Yep.

yup, they're right. yet if you manage to boost your car high enough for the stock bov to give in, buy a GTR bov. problem, solved.

True, I know the stock GTR BOV can handle over 300kW if not a bit more with no problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa 路 Posted

      To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • Duncan
      S1 headlights?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • Celticsfan03
      S1 headlights?

      By Celticsfan03 路 Posted

      The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • WMDC35
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By WMDC35 路 Posted

      If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
脳
脳
  • Create New...