Motor Oils

[GT-R32]

Mobil 1 0w40 should be changed every 5000km

Motul 300V 10w40 should be changed every 10,000km.

so $85/5000km for mobil 1 and $75/5000km for Motul 300V (5L for both)

Motol is the best oil for your car.

Nismo use Motul in their cars.

Why should Mobil 1 be changed every 5k and Motul 300V every 10k?

[some_cs_student]

Why is the Mobil 1 oil change costing 110 AUD?

Have you read the oil thread yet? http://performancelub.com sells it cheaper and Skylines Australia even has a discount code.

The entire 5 vs 10K argument is interesting, some will argue you must change really often, others will advise that chemicals in the oil take time to activate, especially in some of the more expensive oils....

The only way to be sure if a used oil analysis, which I've never done before, the guys on bob is the oil guy do that kind of thing a lot, its extremely in depth about the testing they do on oils.

[GT-R32]

Which is why I take the middle of the road and look at it and decide (hardly scientific LOL), however it won't go over 8,000kms prior to changing.

[Torques]

Why should Mobil 1 be changed every 5k and Motul 300V every 10k?

Hi!

Because Motul is Ester based .. and therefore more sheer stable!

Meaning the oil does not deteriorate from mechanical stress that quickly.

Read this (it's a good article from a guy who definitely is not interested in selling any snake oil)

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77396

Cheers,

Andrew

[reNEGaDe88]

Yerp the super expensive oils don't break down as quickly and take time to activate.

Mobil 1 is a great oil. But I want something for skyline which is not generic/mainstream, for everyone with a commodore or corolla. A skyline is more of a race machine if it puts out almost double the power it did from factory. So it should have a more race type oil. Hence Motul. Skylines also spend more time in High RPM than the generic cruiser car. Hence u need a good oil for that.

Could u please quote that thread or copy it or email it or something. I can't read i'm but am very keen to.

Edited May 5, 2009 by reNEGaDe88

[Cam84]

at the end of the day use what works, i havnt done mine yet but i'm not spending 150 on oil. if you thrash it expect to spend $$ on not only oil but a whole lot more, do some experimenting try some diff oils. if you look after it you should have no worries.

enjoy

[Torques]

[quote name=

Could u please quote that thread or copy it or email it or something. I can't read i'm but am very keen to.

Hi there ...

Sorry about that, I didn't realized you had to be registered to follow the link.

I will talk to the admin in the UK how to access the article.

I'd be feeling kinda bad if I'd just copy and paste it ..

However, the guy who gave the answers to all the questions has it all posted here:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/technicalinfo.aspx#technical

Cheers,

Andrew

[reNEGaDe88]

Woah, that was an epic read. Cheers man. So there you have it. Mineral oils should be changed every 5000km and 100% synthetic oils like Motul 300V which is a Group V oil can be changed every 10,000 miles. ~16,000km. But I would stick with 10,000km

Go Motul 300V boys. Your RB will love it and saves u money either way.

[GT-R32]

My RB26 spends as much time in the upper RPM as a normal car, so I guess Mobil 1 works. But the 10k kms thing of the Motul is appealing.

[reNEGaDe88]

I read the crap out of that site last night. Very good. It specialises in all the great oils. Motul, Fuchs, Amsol, Mobil, Castrol (german) and Redline.

So Mobil 1 is like 60-85$ per service for 5k? And Motul is 170$ per service for 10k? So over 5000km. Motul is 85$ and its a hard core oil.

They agree that the Group V oils need time to activate and do not break down as quick as normal oils.

[910trx]

maybe it would be best if someone can advise me of what oil nissan used from the factory for the s2 stagea with rb25 reo

they (in accordance to the sticker under the bonnet) recommend 10,000km changes but i dont think it has the viscosity for oil type on there.

i think it would be wise if i stuck to somethign rather similar to what the motor was initially built to utilise for its life expectancy under STANDARD DRIVING CONDITIONS.

since owning the car i have done one stint of reving it to the redline, the way and where i drive it hardly gets above 5000 rpm, i just ride the torque and cruise in comfort.

i dont want to spent $150 on ultimate protection under 2x the standard boost at redline more then 20% of the time i am driving it.

i fully understant the reasoning of a great oil and how it reduces stresses throuought the engine, revs freely, and can deal with heavy engine wear.

but i putter in mine

sorry i thought i'd bring it back to the intitial question.

all your points are valid for your individual applictions and your opinions are verymuch appreciated

but mine is stock, it will stay stock, and it gets babied around everywhere

[Torques]

I read the crap out of that site last night. Very good. It specialises in all the great oils. Motul, Fuchs, Amsol, Mobil, Castrol (german) and Redline.

So Mobil 1 is like 60-85$ per service for 5k? And Motul is 170$ per service for 10k? So over 5000km. Motul is 85$ and its a hard core oil.

They agree that the Group V oils need time to activate and do not break down as quick as normal oils.

Hello there ..

As I said .. go for a brand name 5W-40/0W-40 synthetic oil / semi synthetic oil.

Mobil/BP ..

I did the same with my GTS-T.

My car is used as a standard car, not a racer on the track ..

I like going fast, but I don't think I rev the car a lot above 5000rpm.

(Most of the time rather between 3000 and 4500rpm)

I have BP VISCO 5000 filled in the engine.

Here's an overview about oils:

http://www.infast.ee/eng/catalog.php?cathid=8

Here's a wear test:

http://www.discovery-oil.com/products/comparison.htm

Visco 5000 is at rank #3 as for wear and it is noteworthy that the much praised Shell Helix did not so well!

Here's what BP recommends for your engine/car (search for your engine)

http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?...04&langid=1

That should do ... .. now go for an oil change

Cheers,

Andrew

Edited May 6, 2009 by Torques

[reNEGaDe88]

Nissan's generally use 7.5w30. But thats for Japan. Where its colder. So a step up fo Aus would be 10w30 or 10w40. Synthetic oils are good. So Mobil 1 10w40 or Motul 4100 Turbolite 10w40 would be great. 60$ for 5L.

[Galois]

to the thread starter:

given what you said about jumping in the car and red-lining it to avoid a truck, you probably want a lighter oil such as a 0w or 5w. as for hot weight, go for 40 as these engines are getting older now and it is warmer here than in japan (where they use the 7.5w30 stock).

use a full synthetic, not a mineral synthetic, as it'll be better for your aged performance engine. i'd recommend motul xcess 8100 5w40 as you seem keen on the lighter weight (quicker oil through the engine). you can pick it up for $75 and it has so very many great reviews. it is a good group 5 oil.

or, you could do what more and more people are doing, and start using gulf western sougi s 6000, which is a group 5 oil. it isn't sold in places like supercheap or autopro, but autobarn can get it in for about $80. or you could, like most do, just call gulf western and find your nearest distributor and buy it from them for ~$60. that's the best type of oil you can get for only $60.

ALL of this stuff is covered in the oil sticky at the top of the general maintenance forum, well worth a read even if you only go through the first few and last few pages.

[Hibino]

Agreed with Gulf Western Sougi S 6000!

$60 from supercheap

[FullySick26]

I used Motul 300V Competition and change it every 3000k.

[Phuong]

What about non turbo rb25s? what do they use? same oil or lower grade? same weight?

[Galois]

read last 2 pages of the oil sticky, it has literally just been asked

[sloutch]

Why is the Mobil 1 oil change costing 110 AUD?

Have you read the oil thread yet? http://performancelub.com sells it cheaper and Skylines Australia even has a discount code.

The entire 5 vs 10K argument is interesting, some will argue you must change really often, others will advise that chemicals in the oil take time to activate, especially in some of the more expensive oils....

The only way to be sure if a used oil analysis, which I've never done before, the guys on bob is the oil guy do that kind of thing a lot, its extremely in depth about the testing they do on oils.

Sorry to dig up and old thread.

Has anyone have experiences purchasing from performancelub.com? Was thinking of buying engine oil from them.

[Deano 1]

Penrite HPR10 on the street

RedLine 15-50 on the track (from Performance LUB.com)

300awkw R32 GTR 73XXXklm......