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Wheel Spacers - How Much Is Enough?

Spunky Munky
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Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

Hi fellas,

I am getting some new 19 inch rims with some dish soon and want them to sit a bit outside my guards to give it that tough stance that R33's ought to have... I am planning to also flare my rear guards out so having my rear rims/tyres spaced out is a must...

I am new to all this, can someone please provide me with some guidance...e.g. where to get spaces, how much extra width is enough and some pictures would be super...

Many thanks,

Kevin

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nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

ok, if u want the tough stance ur gonna have to lose the 19's, chances are they are tempe specials with shitty offsets, i could be wrong, but i doubt it. if u want that tough stance with wheels out of the guards, 18x10 +20ish, 245/45's, modify guards to suit (should be just a roll), done.

19's do not look tough on 33's, they look SXC that ud be NVS of, leave them for the sex spec cars, real men run >18" with low offset.

note: R34 GTR's can pull off 19's, V35's and 350's can pull it off too, but it needs to be done right, a lot of fiddling with fitment to get them acceptable.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Wow 10" width with +20 offset. That'd be fat.

I've got rolled rear lip and my 17 x 9" +38 measure 15mm space left before touching inside of guards with 255/40 tyres. So that'd be 17 x 9 +23 and it'd be just touching the rolled guards.

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
  • Author
Posted
spacers not needed... just get the right offset...

how far do you wanna go?

here's mine...

DSC00011.jpg

that's 18 x 9.5 +30

do you want more?

Hi mate,

This is exactly what I want my rims to look like...exactly!!

So I should get 30mm spacers for both my front and rears then...ok, noted...the question is where to get these...I am absolutely clueless about spacers, please give me some details, i.e. brand, measurements and price?

More pictures of your car please...it looks really tough...any pics of it from the front?

Thanks fellas...

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

what size tyre?

if u go wider rim, and maintain tyre size, u can have the rim sticking out further, but the actual tyre tread stays in the same place, its the sidewall which makes up the extra width. this means u get the look of the wheels sticking out further, but having almost exactly the same clearance.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

no.... the WHEELS are +30, there are NO spacers....

all wheels have 3 dimentions...

size (17", 18", etc)

width (9.5", 10" etc)

offset (+20, +12, -1 etc)

offset is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel...

so my rims are 9.5" wide with an offset of +30

that means that the dead centre of my wheels is offset positively by 30mm from the mounting surface.

the LOWER the offset the MORE they stick out

if i were to have say +12 offset the wheels would stick out an extra 18mm

2.jpg

see how the front wheels have a HIGHER offset than the rear's

any questions? :)

DSC00070.jpg

18 x 9.5 + 30 side on:

this is a link to a dyno run of my car... its the only photo i have of the new front end... also notice the lack of indicators as per your other thread :)

Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
Posted (edited)

Wouldn't get spacers mate,

Having loose spacers is dangerous (especially if u give ur car a hard time around corners) and you risk having ur insurance claim denied (if they cause you to crash).

Better off getting the right offset.

Edited by Taso84
mid life crisis Veteran

mid life crisis

Posted
Posted

just remember the further you push the wheel out esp on the front . the more load it places on the wheelbearings and stub axle

hate to see a front wheel rolling down the road not attached to the car .

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks to all for your info...I guess I'll just stick to current rims without spacers and get new rims with the proper offset later.

Thanks to JJJ for your informative write up on offsets...cheers mate...your car looks really clean and tough!

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
  • Author
Posted
no.... the WHEELS are +30, there are NO spacers....

all wheels have 3 dimentions...

size (17", 18", etc)

width (9.5", 10" etc)

offset (+20, +12, -1 etc)

offset is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel...

so my rims are 9.5" wide with an offset of +30

that means that the dead centre of my wheels is offset positively by 30mm from the mounting surface.

the LOWER the offset the MORE they stick out

if i were to have say +12 offset the wheels would stick out an extra 18mm

2.jpg

see how the front wheels have a HIGHER offset than the rear's

any questions? :P

DSC00070.jpg

18 x 9.5 + 30 side on:

this is a link to a dyno run of my car... its the only photo i have of the new front end... also notice the lack of indicators as per your other thread :dry:

Thanks for the very informative write up mate...btw, what mods does your car have 300 kws is shitloads of power for a RWD...wow...

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

stock internals, HKS 2835 pro s (.68), pfc, datalogit, injectors, afm, fuel pump, ex cam gear, clutch, fmic, coils, caster, camber, pineapples, sway's, struts, mech diff, rotors, pads, cosmetic shit

runs 311 on e85 (270 on pulp)

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
just remember the further you push the wheel out esp on the front . the more load it places on the wheelbearings and stub axle

hate to see a front wheel rolling down the road not attached to the car .

really? i would have thought the mounting surface being closer to the centre of the wheel (where the load is spread more evenly each side) would have been beneficial.

2 points here, biggest cause of failure there is from harsh bumps in the road, not from cornering force, here the car sits static with almost always negative camber, this means staticly there is more force on the inside of the wheel, and when u hit a bump the suspension compresses, causing more dynamic negative camber, putting even more stress towards the inside of the wheel.

so if the stress here is put on the inside of the wheel, putting the mounting surface closer to the inside of the wheel, or at least closer to the middle, means the load is spread more evenly at the mounting surface, and there is less leverage.

hard to explain, this might help:

offset.jpg

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