Jump to content
SAU Community

What Boost Controller Or Computer Would U Recommend And Why?

KNG35M

By KNG35M,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

chef_stagea Grand Master

chef_stagea

Posted
Posted

boost controller i wouldnt go for anything other than a greddy profec b spec2 myself... very very easy to use

high and low setting, peak can flash after each squirt if u want, you can also hardwire it in to the car so its not visable just a button somwhere to go from high and low. BITSUS did a topic back a bit using his window de icing switch...

as for computers im unsure of whats out there for the m35s.. im sure somehing with the same engin would have somting out there.. cheer adam.

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
heys guys as the topic suggests , just wanna get an idea of which way to got without alot of mucking around

cheers

Your best EBC for the $ is the Jaycar IEBC. The 'cheapest' boost increase is to re-arrange the factory plumbing & use the original restrictor as a bleed.

I'm running an IEBC on my C34 (which will be dyno mapped Wednesday) currently at 0.6-0.65bar, an adjustable wastegate rod on my DR, and ECU-mapped on my Z. The IEBC brings the boost on much quicker than the others, and allows higher boost at quite low engine speeds. I plan on fitting the DR & Z with IEBC's as well - I think it will make quite a difference to the spool time of the 'big' TO3 on the FJ20, and more flexibility to the T3/T4 on the Z.

WGNC-34 Enthusiast

WGNC-34

Posted
Posted

1) from the research ive done on the m35,an aftermarket piggy back computer (usual suspects like haltech etc may have something, havent looked into it that much) with boost control would probably be the best method (bear in mind the jacks would consider it "illegal" unless u can get one that can be locked after a tune and still meets emissions),this way the stock ecu can be used for idle ,shift logic in auto's etc. this way u can even up the afr and add some boost safely and u have the flexibility too add more mods in the future.

* My personal preference would be the Haltech Interceptor because it is a piggyback ecu ,has good customer support and a reasonable price mind u it doesnt have the functions of the more extreme ecu's.i dont know the models it supports though (damn adobe)

2) aftermarket boost control,there are about a billion types and everyone prefers one or another

* In my series 2 C34 Stagea i have the HDI SBC Type-D with boost gauge after a dyno run too check AFR's and dial in the two settings it has been perfect,i also installed it my self with little difficulty also at $370 odd bucks it is prcied well

just my 2 cents hope it helped a bit

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

How much boost do your want?

Do you realise that in sock form the car is already running 14-15psi.

The only benifit of a boost controller would be to get the boost to come on sooner.

That is unless you have already installed a high flowed turbo. In that case you will want one to get the boost to come on earlier.

KNG35M Collaborator

KNG35M

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How much boost do your want?

Do you realise that in sock form the car is already running 14-15psi.

The only benifit of a boost controller would be to get the boost to come on sooner.

That is unless you have already installed a high flowed turbo. In that case you will want one to get the boost to come on earlier.

andy yes i do realise stock boost is around the 15 mark i just wanted an idea of what would suit these types of cars better

cheers damo

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted
andy yes i do realise stock boost is around the 15 mark i just wanted an idea of what would suit these types of cars better

cheers damo

I have heard that the Haltech has been fitted to the M35 successfully.

d_liberate Collaborator

d_liberate

Posted
Posted
* In my series 2 C34 Stagea i have the HDI SBC Type-D with boost gauge after a dyno run too check AFR's and dial in the two settings it has been perfect,i also installed it my self with little difficulty also at $370 odd bucks it is prcied well

just my 2 cents hope it helped a bit

+1 to the HDI SBC Type-D with boost gauge. Performance Wise has them for only $345 incl. post - http://performance-wise.com/page42.htm

:wacko:

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

+1 for the Blitz profec B, had one and it was awesome. will be getting another one for this car

andy, with an EBC you can ramp the boost up and make it come on faster than stock, it doesnt only allow for adjustment. so its entirely possible there is a little more down the bottom. it kinda is a little laggy :woot:

[[d a n n y]] Veteran

[[d a n n y]]

Posted
Posted

i had a HKS EVC5 on my evo 8

works well

with full exhaust and boos i got 200kwatw

help 24psi of boost safely all the way to redline

EBC's seem to hold boost steadily through out the rev range compared to manual bleed valve etc

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

I'm getting a GReddy Profec B spec 2 installed on Wednesday. Looking forward to having it done, and will offer some feedback (and maybe dyno graphs if I decide to get them done) after that.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

If you have a good Vipec/Link installer in your area get one and that will take care of everything including boost control.

For a stand alone boost controller you can't beat the Jaycar IEBC for effectiveness and price.

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

i was about to ask that question, i was a bit concerned when i saw the boost guage nudge 1 bar.

we always ran eboosts on Rb powered stuff with haltechs, microtechs and Apexis, but the M35 engine management with the automatic is a different animal. would definately have to be a piggy back controlling fuel and ignition only leaving factory ecu to control trans.

How much boost do your want?

Do you realise that in sock form the car is already running 14-15psi.

The only benifit of a boost controller would be to get the boost to come on sooner.

That is unless you have already installed a high flowed turbo. In that case you will want one to get the boost to come on earlier.

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

Profec B spec 2 is installed, here are the pre- and post-install graphs. Some tweaking to the PFC was done as well, and figures are measured at the rear wheels only...

Graphpre-EBCweb.jpg

Graphpost-EBCweb.jpg

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Profec B spec 2 is installed, here are the pre- and post-install graphs. Some tweaking to the PFC was done as well, and figures are measured at the rear wheels only...

Graphpre-EBCweb.jpg

Graphpost-EBCweb.jpg

EBC is very worthwhile. What other mods do you have?
GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
EBC is very worthwhile. What other mods do you have?

Engine wise?

  • GReddy FMIC (return-feed style so the piping goes back through the standard holes);
  • APEXi PowerFC;
  • Walbro replacement fuel pump
  • bell-mouth style dump/front pipe
  • high-flow catalytic converter
  • 3" cat-back exhaust

I think that about covers the mods, other than the fact that my car is a manual, which may also account for a few extra kW...

Yesterday I drove it straight home from the workshop because I had no need or want to go anywhere (a trip of less than 10mins). Today I drove it around a fair bit, and only on the low boost setting (7psi, where it used to already run on 10psi before the EBC install). It goes almost as well on 7psi (notice that there's a difference of maybe 2kW peak power from the pre-EBC run on 10psi), but the way it comes on boost is smoother. When I take it for a drive on 10psi, I'll provide some more feedback on how it feels compared to before.

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

Okay, I've just driven the car on 10psi and gave it two good squirts.

Fffffffffaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrkkkkkkkkk!!!

I'm a happy boy! Better boost control and more power, how could I complain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • niZmO_Man
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...