Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so i dont hae one yet and if you can help me selecting one that would be great so feel free to tell me some good FMIC not to pricey though just one that will do the job and also if there is anyone on here that has experiance fitting front mounts on r33s can they fit one to my car ill pay u also >_<

cheers

dang, is it school holidays already?

Please take your car to a reputable workshop.

Or better still, use the search function to find the 1,000,000 similar posts on the subject of FMICs and people seeking to do mechanical work.

dang, is it school holidays already?

Please take your car to a reputable workshop.

Or better still, use the search function to find the 1,000,000 similar posts on the subject of FMICs and people seeking to do mechanical work.

I lol'd :).

Go buy a Greddy kit for autobarn, and then take it to boostworx or something of the likes for installation.

If you buy a cheap eBay kit, you will find it wont suit up and fit and look like horsesh!t.

Maybe even call Sinergy Motorsports and see what they can do. Might be like $1200 installed, I used to work there, Rocco should be able to sort something out.

very time consuming specially when you have to cut the hole for it

but as Wayne said most ebay stuff wont line up properly mate so...better off spending a bit of cash on name brands

Greddy ones seem to work a whole lot better as well...

and i am sure that there are a few places around that would do a very good job on fitting it etc etc

from my experience 1 person fitting a front mount by them selves it takes around 5 to 6 hours to do it properly without a hoist.

with someone helping it could be done in about 3 hours with a good fitting kit but there is quite a bit to do to get it to fit nicely.

it depends on what front bar you have as well . some fibreglass ones you have too trim so the cooler will fit .

and ive found on some standed bars there is some trimming to do esp series 1 around the indercators .aslo have to trim the plastic knobs off the aircon fan as well .

it depends on what front bar you have as well . some fibreglass ones you have too trim so the cooler will fit .

and ive found on some standed bars there is some trimming to do esp series 1 around the indercators .aslo have to trim the plastic knobs off the aircon fan as well .

mine is a s1 r33 with a s1 front bar

and didnt have to cut anything to get the cooler fitting properly

just had to remove the mesh that was on the slots in the front bar

apart from that the only cutting i did was to make the hole lol

I am not sure who made the kit, possibly a 'Hybrid' kit, but they all bolt upto the standard cooler pipes which goto where the sidemount cooler pipes mounted so no holes need be cut, thus making the job about 2hours easily.

Maybe a bit more research for you to find out who exactly made the intercooler kit like what I am describing and you won't need to chop any nasty holes in your engine bay :(.

I am not sure who made the kit, possibly a 'Hybrid' kit, but they all bolt upto the standard cooler pipes which goto where the sidemount cooler pipes mounted so no holes need be cut, thus making the job about 2hours easily.

Maybe a bit more research for you to find out who exactly made the intercooler kit like what I am describing and you won't need to chop any nasty holes in your engine bay :D .

JJR (cooling pro), Blitz, and ARC make those coolers ^

There is you answer mate... i personally prefer the look plus its a Greddy kit that i have

ARC and Blitz expect to pay some big bucks there....dont really know about the cooling pro stuff from JJR but dont think they would be that expensive compared to the Blitz or ARC...

Hybrid kits from memory all need hole cutting...and i think regency is fine with that as well

as long as the hole isnt cut in any part of the structure, ie under battery tray is fine (some skylines even have a dotted out circle of where to cut!) then i think Regency is fine. and DONT tamper with the reo bar if u can get away with it.

Regency are fairly forgiving with holes unless it is very structural.

I had a hole cut for my FMIC on my VLCT, put it thru regency running a crossover pipe and nothing thru the hole and they were fine with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...