Jump to content
SAU Community

How Much To Ship R34 From Victoria To W.a

SL33K

By SL33K,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

SL33K Experienced

SL33K

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanx for the info guyz :)

How do i drive it back from VIC? isnt it too far? wont my Km's go high lol

will check out the rides here on the site first and decide. i really want an R34 and love the looks thats why the last option will be to get a N/A and then when i get more cash i will sell it and replace it with the r34 gtt

btw are r34 gtt automatic with triptonic any good?

one more question. how do go about with the forms? the ones u fill up when u sell/buy a car? if i am not in the state that the seller is?

hoony Mentor

hoony

Posted
Posted

in regards to the forms you'll have to contact the DPI

my mate in the Army when he was in Darwin wanted to buy my 180sx but it was too complicated for us but there was a bit more to it than just buying and selling

all the R34 GTT's that are automatic are tiptronic... there's quite a few members here with tiptronic ones so they'll be able to give you their opinions, i had a disagreement with some guy from Sydney as i personally think that a tiptronic one would not be as fun as a manual one, especially with our roads here and when you go on cruises and stuff there's plenty of roads that cater for fun/spirited driving

i know a lot of guys in Sydney and Melbourne however have tiptronics as their traffic is real stop/start so the automatic transmission comes in handy

if you're looking to modify and take your car to track days and 'enjoy' so to speak your car a little more i'd stick with a manual

a bit biased though, i hate driving automatics unless it's made to be automatic ie. a Lexus/Mercedes... couldn't imagine driving relative's cars in manual

less fun and puts you to sleep with late nights

my2c anyway, hope that helps

Hank Scorpio Grand Master

Hank Scorpio

Posted
Posted

I have a tiptronic R34 (I wanted an R34 but could not afford a manual). It's great in traffic and the tiptronic function is really handy. However if you can get a manual I probably would, not to mention it gives you the ability to have a bit more fun. However if you're not bothered its a good way to save some money, be a bit lazy now and again but its still an R34 Skyline and a great car.

1R34SON Proficient

1R34SON

Posted
Posted (edited)

been in ur shoes before mate, got the na then sold it for the turbo, no comparison.. which i already knew but at the time i couldnt afford the turbo and its expenses bla bla. Save up a lil more and get the turbo.. otherwise ull say "i should have listened to that dude." I love manuals but i got a semi auto (mum needed to move the car sometimes and doesnt drive manual) i love it also tho, it comes in handy a lot and still very fun to drive. but the trans depends on how u like to drive i guess.. if i had the choice id have both.. might convert later tho cos i love it too much.

got both cars from nsw to wa from between 1200-1500 bucks. just get the turbo!

like Andrew said.. u may tend to get sleepy with the semi auto. Just clock ur car.. thatll wake u up, na dont thats dangerous :thumbsup:

Edited by 1R34SON
SL33K Experienced

SL33K

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i really want a Turbo one.

what do u guyz think of this one? Its Turbo and Auto. ( i dont mind auto. i can convert it later to Manual after saving cash)

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...&__Qpb=true

1R34SON Proficient

1R34SON

Posted
Posted
yeah i really want a Turbo one.

what do u guyz think of this one? Its Turbo and Auto. ( i dont mind auto. i can convert it later to Manual after saving cash)

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...&__Qpb=true

no matter what car ur interested in man, if u cant view it or drive it for yourself you should get someone who can, u cant tell what condition a car is in by photos, look for a car with the right colour, extras, kms or whatever u like then get a complete inspection. might cost anywhere from 100-400 bucks but thats a small price to pay imo even grab their mechanics number and chat to them about the car. depending on what state the car is search for a known or reputable vehicle inspection company for that state/city etc on the net and book an inspection (preferably a company that includes a compression n leak test also). still gotta reply to ur pm mate bit busy at work gtg. talk later hope that helps.

Boss-zilla Mentor

Boss-zilla

Posted
Posted

I paid Ceva (aka TNT) 750 to ship my 32 from perth to melboune (house to depo) at xmas.

If you drive it is about 3500k's, 5 days and cost about (depending on your fuel eco) $800-$1000 inc accom, food, fuel etc and it is very boring no matter what car you would be driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...