Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr32 Power Level

Sidmiester

By Sidmiester,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sidmiester Enthusiast

Sidmiester

Posted
Posted

Hi all, just put some mods on my 1990 32GTR recently with 123ks. So far, I have installed:

  • Vipec ecu running 13psi
  • Blitz pod air filters
  • 3 inch catback exhaust
  • HKS adjustable cam gears
  • sard 700cc injectors
  • bosh 044 fuel pump
  • turbosmart fuel reg
  • nismo fmic
  • vipec boost controller

Everything else stock.

had the car dynoed on shell optimax and it only managed to get 192 awkw. This seems prety low to me with the level of mods i have compared to other owners of GTR's with less mods. Is there something wrong with my motor or is this figure about right? Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267688-gtr32-power-level/
Share on other sites
Sidmiester Enthusiast

Sidmiester

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There is a whole thread dedicated to RB26 dyno results - a LOT with stock turbos.

Have a look through, you'll soon see what you should be getting with 2-3 pages.

thanks, I looked on the forums, and people are running more power than me with less mods. Maybe the engine is just tired and need a freshen up.

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeh, my car got 50kw's more in rw mode than in aw mode on the same dyno lol, some dyno's allow for the awkw mode and will read like rw dyno's and some have no correction and will just read the power output at all fours.. Also some will read higher than others because the tuners like them reading that way

That's the shiet thing, some peoples stated awd are actually just adjusted to read like rwd figures, at autosalon for example

I've always wondered about the power loss.. 50kw's seems alot to lose just to the front wheels being on? How can some legitimate tuners get readings on awd dyno's that are only a few kw's different from the same car in rwd on the same dyno

Edited by GTAAAH
femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

I dont understand why you have done what youve done to the fuel system! For standard turbos! You dont need it. Plain and simple.

For the money youve spent on the fuel system you could have bought a second hand set of hi-flows and made ~270kw.

Forget about changing the dumps, thats stupid, might as well change turbos at the same time if youre going to do that.

Yes do a front pipe and check the cat. Or go de-cat. (Best)

P.S 13psi is scary for 19 year old turbos.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
I dont understand why you have done what youve done to the fuel system! For standard turbos! You dont need it. Plain and simple.

P.S 13psi is scary for 19 year old turbos.

+1 and +1.

Standard fuel system is ok for up to ~280kw (tho fuel pumps get tired so it is probably worth replacing that)

I just blow one of my turbos at 13psi. Conservative tune, 120,000kms. (FWIW they're supposed to be replaced every 100,000kms).

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

ask your tuner about it. what did he say? do a power run in RWD and see if it makes you feel better. and as above, for up to 280rwkw you can use standard injectors, standard reg and standard pump (providing it's healthy).

Sidmiester Enthusiast

Sidmiester

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I dont understand why you have done what youve done to the fuel system! For standard turbos! You dont need it. Plain and simple.

For the money youve spent on the fuel system you could have bought a second hand set of hi-flows and made ~270kw.

Forget about changing the dumps, thats stupid, might as well change turbos at the same time if youre going to do that.

Yes do a front pipe and check the cat. Or go de-cat. (Best)

P.S 13psi is scary for 19 year old turbos.

Yeah thanks for the advice, I'll get the front pipe and cat checked. I guess I should have asked for advice before I started tuning my car. Learning the hard way :P . I bought the GTR off one of my workmates to resell but decided to keep it instead. When he had the car, he upgraded to 3" catback exhaust. was going to change the front pipe and cat, but my mechanic said that they will be fine cause they are aftermarket. He also did Pod filters, VIPEC ECU tuned running 12psi. The car had a power output of 189awkw. So basically I made 3awkw with the added mods :cool: . Better than nothing I guess

Sidmiester Enthusiast

Sidmiester

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ask your tuner about it. what did he say? do a power run in RWD and see if it makes you feel better. and as above, for up to 280rwkw you can use standard injectors, standard reg and standard pump (providing it's healthy).

I asked my mechanic about the power output, he said that 258awhp aka 192awkws is quite normal for a car running standard turbos. Well thats a bit of the reason why I changed them as well just to be on the safe side cause the system is getting quite old now. nearly 19 years old. But Im not too sure if they have been changed in the past.

Sidmiester Enthusiast

Sidmiester

Posted
  • Author
Posted
+1 and +1.

Standard fuel system is ok for up to ~280kw (tho fuel pumps get tired so it is probably worth replacing that)

I just blow one of my turbos at 13psi. Conservative tune, 120,000kms. (FWIW they're supposed to be replaced every 100,000kms).

sorry to hear that your turbo blew. what a bummer. I just hope that my turbos hold up for a little while longer

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
Im just running the stock turbos. I think Mark was going to run them at 14psi, but decided to run them at 13psi instead

Agreed with Femno's comments, spend money on turbo's and dumps next.

FYI i had 15psi, 262rwkw/236awkw

Sidmiester Enthusiast

Sidmiester

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah thanks for the advice, I'll get the front pipe and cat checked. I guess I should have asked for advice before I started tuning my car. Learning the hard way :P . I bought the GTR off one of my workmates to resell but decided to keep it instead. When he had the car, he upgraded to 3" catback exhaust. was going to change the front pipe and cat, but my mechanic said that they will be fine cause they are aftermarket. He also did Pod filters, VIPEC ECU tuned running 12psi. The car had a power output of 189awkw. So basically I made 3awkw with the added mods :cool: . Better than nothing I guess

Car was tuned on same dyno by the way.

Sidmiester Enthusiast

Sidmiester

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Agreed with Femno's comments, spend money on turbo's and dumps next.

FYI i had 15psi, 262rwkw/236awkw

Was that on aftermarket turbos?? I have purchased some second hand rebuilt GTR33 steel wheeled ballbearing turbos. Just waiting on them to arrive, Its been 5 weeks and still waiting.

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
Was that on aftermarket turbos?? I have purchased some second hand rebuilt GTR33 steel wheeled ballbearing turbos. Just waiting on them to arrive, Its been 5 weeks and still waiting.

Stockers. Other mods (minimal) are in the thread R31Nismoid linked you to.

Turbos's dont take 5 weeks for delivery from within Australia. Contact the seller, get a tracking number

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...