Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Need a bit of help on fuel pump setup..

I dont want to go surge tank so im looking for an intank pump that will be able to flow enough to pump out 350awkw roughly

will a bosch 023 do it?

Iv got all supporting mods, nismo FPR and sard 800cc injectors.

Opinions please? would rather hear from guys who have setups making this kind of power and what they used to get there.. Ideally i want to go more then 350awkw however i think that will require a turbo upgrade again...

Thanks

Mass

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267715-r34-gtr-power-output/
Share on other sites

yeh iv already got the FPR from previous mods, now upgrading the injectors hence why i have an fpr and 800cc inj....

I was just a little hesitant with using the 044 intank.. Iv decided to drop in the 044, and yes iv got the -5's so im looking at pumping out 350.

One more question for those that know,

What do the stock AFM's run out of puff at?

Do i need to go for Z32's? i was looking at getting them but unsure as to wat the stockies flow awkw wise????

What boost are you gonna run Mass? Your still on stock internals like me, correct?

My set up is similar to yours but with different ECU. Ive got ~300AWKW at 1.2 Bar.

Im far from an expert but in the research I did, most people with 350AWKW upgraded their air flow metres to Z32s

I bet its at least x3 the cost of the 044.

I made 326 on 17psi with standard afms...you will require about 20psi to make 350odd, so depending on your tuner the afms may need upgrading.

I have a single Z32 afm and did make 380. Dont know how the tuner did it but he did...its all in the tune!!

hey guys,

thanks for the input so far....

Not stock internals anymore... engine is currently stripped and being built... its having the full treatment, forged internals, cams and sump etc.....

i was looking at a pfc d jetro instead of the Z32's but i think i might play it safe and just go Z32's with the pfc iv already got...

Only other thing i need to look at now is coil packs... tossing up between JJR and Splitfires??? not sure on the differences?

Hey guys, just a question out of curiosity as I begin stage 1 mods, but what are most of you running, 80mm or 90mm exhausts on your GTR's? I have an R34 GTR Nur with the N1 engine etc. Does the extra size really make that much difference in power?

Cheers,

Ed

Only other thing i need to look at now is coil packs... tossing up between JJR and Splitfires??? not sure on the differences?

Whats wrong with stock coil packs? Buy the HKS Twin Spark and you will have no issues!

Thanks guys....

As far as i know my coils are fine, not failing, but i dont want to throw it on the dyno up the boost and find its suffering coz of coils....

So i thought the JJR's are a good cheap alternative, however unsure on quality???

Dunno bout the HKS twin spark? wat is it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...