Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well guys what a top day. This is was the first CRD run Dyno Day that I have attended and I was most impressed with how smoothly the event was run.

Thanks must go to Jim and Theo from CRD for kindly offering their facilities for us to use.

Now to the results - look below:

Carlo - R33 GTS-T - 160.2 KW (Up from 139 KW on first run)

Dave - MY99 WRX - 123.7 KW at all four

Benm - R33 GTS-T - 180 KW

Dom - R32 GTS-T - 147.8 KW

JimBo2000 - R33 GTS-T - 198.6 KW

EAV-00L - R33 GTS-T - 170.8 KW

RAIDER - S15 200SX - 177.1 KW

WrxKilla - EVO 4 - 146.4 KW (Not running correctly)

WrxKilla's Mate - Pulsar Gti-R RWD - 164.9 KW

RedGTST - R33 GTS-T - 162.1 KW

Judd - Integra Type R Turbo - 103 KW

David - R32 GTS-T - 167.4 KW

Unknown - WRX Sti - 132.KW

Jarrad - R34 GTT - 163.9 KW

Matt - S14 200SX - 142.5 KW

Joseph - R33 GTS-T - 150.6 KW

CURMAC? - HSV - 200.3 KW

Unknown - Ford XR8 - 206.1 KW

Steve - S15 200SX - 167.3 KW

Unknown - R34 GTT - 140.3 KW

IYI - R33 GTS-T - 253.1 KW

SNG - R32 GTR - 236.6 KW At all four

Top Performers:

Buster - R33 GTS-T (Stock) :( - 324.5 KW

CNG - R33 GTR - 303.7 KW At all four

Merli - R33 GTR - (TBA)

Thankyou to all of you who attended!

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26813-crd-dyno-day-review-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Adjusted Results in car model order:

R32 GTS-T - David - 167.4 KW

R32 GTS-T - Dom - 147.8 KW

-

R32 GTR - SNG - 236.6 KW

-

R33 GTS-T - Buster - 324.5 KW

R33 GTS-T - IYI - 253.1 KW

R33 GTS-T - JimBo2000 - 198.6 KW

R33 GTS-T - Benm - 180 KW

R33 GTS-T - EAV-00L - 170.8 KW

R33 GTS-T - RedGTST - 162.1 KW

R33 GTS-T - Carlo - 160.2 KW

R33 GTS-T - Joseph - 150.6 KW

-

R33 GTR - CNG - 303.7 KW

-

R34 GTT - Jarrad - 163.9 KW

R34 GTT - Unknown - 140.3 KW

-

WRX Sti - Unknown - 132.KW

MY99 WRX - Dave - 123.7 KW

-

S15 200SX - RAIDER - 177.1 KW

S15 200SX - Steve - 167.3 KW

S14 200SX - Matt - 142.5 KW

-

EVO 4 - WrxKilla - 146.4 KW

-

Pulsar Gti-R RWD - WrxKilla's Mate - 164.9 KW

-

Integra Type R Turbo - Judd - 103 KW

-

HSV - CURMAC? - 200.3 KW

-

Ford XR8 - Unknown - 206.1 KW

Originally posted by B-Man

Hey Carlo ! Nice one - tell me how you got extra 21rwkw

Carlo was low on fuel, thought he was putting some ELF into the tank but it was actually the Pepsi cans we were selling for $1ea, top shiat !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...