Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the cooler and pipework off a mates r34 skyline, so i figured it would be a pretty straight forward swap

but just wondering what this is in the pipe coming off the manifold. Is it something to do with the dual stage boost?

first two pics show what im talking about, 3rd pic is the pipe that will be in its place. Which has nothing on it to transfer it over..

dsc00409ghj.jpg

dsc00410k.jpg

dsc00411lkv.jpg

nope, it is there for a reason, you need to connect it up or blow off to atmosphere, which may be illegal in some/all areas. Without one can cause pressure surges and damage to turbo/engine.

1000th POST !!! woohoo

nope, it is there for a reason, you need to connect it up or blow off to atmosphere, which may be illegal in some/all areas. Without one can cause pressure surges and damage to turbo/engine.

nope, untrue. you can run without one, you'll just get 'flutter'

don't really want to start a debate on compressor surge though

plenty of turbo motors came from factory without a bov, for instance the ca18det

its debatable weather you need the bov or not. IMO i'm with chook, in that you need to run one. alot of people choose not to run a bov but this is usually on aftermarket turbo setups.

also with the stock bov you just cant run it to atmo, the factory bov is designed to pass on vacuum, so you will get eratic idle and constant stalling. your going to have to get an adapter plate made up to fit it to the new pipe.

nope, untrue. you can run without one, you'll just get 'flutter'

don't really want to start a debate on compressor surge though

plenty of turbo motors came from factory without a bov, for instance the ca18det

to add to this, the RB20DET out of a R32 comes factory with a bov, same engine in an A31 cefiro does not :P

yep, sorry, factory one cant blow to atmos, meant to mention aftermarket BOVs for this. But i still would not want to run around without one, especially with higher than stock boost.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger#Wastegate

It has a bov on the new pipework, so thats no drama

i just want to know how to disconnect that one and do away with it all

Theres a line that runs down to behind the pod intake.. and a line off that one that goes up to what i think is maybe a solenoid or something with another line that runs down to the waste gate?

ok. i drew some arrows on the pic you gave. the larger pipe with the red arrow pointing to it, just block off, if you dont you will be creating a large vacuum leak. the smaller one with the yellow arrow, run it to the new bov.

post-34711-1241329881_thumb.jpg

Thanks heaps quick32

Been trying to find that out for hours :P

It's coming along alright so far, would be close to finishing it all in one day but im sick as hell with some sort of flu.

You can see on the right where the bov is now, hks ss. Not bad considering my mate gave the whole lot to me for $250.

dsc00414z.jpg

Thanks jez. Pretty much got it all done, have neatly cut out the front bar to fit around it.

Just gotta get a bit of hose to run down to the bov and block off that vacuum line.

The boost sensor hose was also fitted in there too, is there an easy spot to re locate that or should i just tap a thread into the new piping and run it where it was originally?

but yeah, im done with this swine flu.. medication, beer and bed for me.

thanks guys, its been a productive day :P

Are you still using the factory boost solenoid? Some of the lines you were describing sounded like the lines to and from the boost solenoid to the actuator etc. Whereabouts are you located? I am sure another member would be happy to come around and have a look at your set-up.

Im near brisbane Kiwi.

I got it all sorted out, everything works fine except it likes stalling when i tap the throttle. Im guessing this is because ive just blocked off the pre existing plumb back pipe and not connected it to the new bov?

any way around it? Took it for a test run then up the highway through town and the girl in the landcruiser beside me found it hilarious that i stalled the auto twice trying to take off. She actually slowed down while laughing.. :P

sounds like you have a vacuum leak mate. have you checked that you hooked everything back up? there aren't any vacuum line floating around not hooked up are there? it will still run ok even if you block up the stock bov and dont run one.

how far out of bris are you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...