Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey as stated i got an 33 gtst, its got hks sequential bov an hks mushroom filter..

it sucks quite loudly even when not accelerating much...as in just feel the car picking up speed an then take foot off an bov will sound...

not really what i want is it abnormal or just the way it is?

ide like to tone it down a bit so only can hear it at say 3000rpm

any suggestions would be sweet cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268755-r33-gts-t-air-intake/
Share on other sites

hey as stated i got an 33 gtst, its got hks sequential bov an hks mushroom filter..

it sucks quite loudly even when not accelerating much...as in just feel the car picking up speed an then take foot off an bov will sound...

not really what i want is it abnormal or just the way it is?

ide like to tone it down a bit so only can hear it at say 3000rpm

any suggestions would be sweet cheers

hey man i got the same problem, i got a boost guage and even before boost i hear it sucking and it doses wen i let the accelerator,,dunno wats wrong?

The only way to really tone it down is to replace the factory airbox and put in a performance panel filter. Many guys are running this setup and are very happy with the results.

The factory airbox will dampen the induction noise unlike the open filter that you are currently using.

yeah gonna hav to replace my POd anyway, i just put in a fmic yesterday so im defective at the moment,, the intercooler makes a nice flutter tho :D ,, got a standard bov as well

  • 1 month later...

i had the same problem, loved the sound of the pod filter to start with but after a couple weeks it got irritating. I changed it back to the factory air box but the snorkel wont fit over the intercooler pipe (still tyring to find a simple way around this)

love the sound of no pod though, can hear the turbo spinning which is much better than the sucking from the pod.

i noticed a big difference when i chucked in my FMIC and pod....the induction noise was definitely louder...now i have found its pretty simple..when accelerating dont hit any vacuum lol as i have blocked off my stock BOV it would flutter even with the slightest of vacuum....apart from putting the stock airbox back in there is nothing you would be able to do rather then with your right foot to stop the induction noise

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...