Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guy let me introtuce myself my name is ross aka as cuttz on hear im turnning 25 in june this year. im from bendigo victoria. and sick of using my r33 gtst on the street as a drift car as the cops dont like it that much .

anyways ive decided to build a track car of some kind that i can punish with out giving a shit ya know, thinking in the lines of an r31 s3.

just after some hints and tip on how best to do this, im a welder by trade so pretty handy with most things but dont be scared to let me know anything.

as i start at first i just want to get the car and body ready to drift asap power and paint can come soon enough as ive got good mates in the scene. in other words keen to get out on the track

so if any has tips on suspention upgrades and roll cage specs ride hights and some tips on how to cut and remove weight and stiffen the whole thing up.

anything need for CAMS approval

also how to go about setting up a hydrolic handbrake

diff setups and uprades.(also hurd i can upgrade to an r33 cradle is this true and how do i do this)

five stud conversion

brake upgrades and setup

and steering and extra lock upgrades

and anything else u guys want to add go for it.

any help would be greatly apreciated. thanks heap...... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270446-building-a-r31-drift-car/
Share on other sites

hey guys me again just wonding about engine coversions i should use. i like the power i have in my r33 gtst (rb25det 185rwkw) thinking about getting one for the r31 but dont know up for any opinions. plus what gearbox is best for drift use, is a rb30 manual any goos with a strait cut uprade or shoul i source a rb25det box and strait cut that. and do or should use any bushes for gearbox or should i solid mount it.

any helps would be great thanks. :P

hey all just arived in qld two non complayable r33 gt25t all parts avil please kall 0430540512 will post and send au wide if payed for cheers

hey already have one of them but maybe a 32 wasnt realy keen on spending to much on the shell but let me know might change my mind on maybe or even a no complyable 180sx. let me know

chuck a 25det in with the 25det box, i wouldn't bother with straight cut gears, the 33 box is pretty strong as is. (mine handles 400rwhp without any issues)

5 stud conversion, the front hubs can be re-drilled to 5 stud, or you can get early Z31 hubs. the rear can't be re-drilled, so its either try find some early Z31 hubs again, or get some made up (probably easier to get a full set made up)

brakes wise, again i'd chuck the 33 gts-t brakes on it, you will need HR31 (import) front struts, and then the calipers/rotors are a direct fit, rear is a direct fit too. if its converted to 5 stud, everything will bolt straight up, if its still 4 stud, you just need to get blank rotors, or re-drill them to 4 stud)

diff setup, you can get a few different LSD's for them, i've got a tomei technical trax 2 way for my 31, they make them for the aussie spec as well (a mate in WA has one for sale, in the housing)

hey mitchy thanks for the advice on the studs. just question on the hr31 stuts is it easier if i just put in coilovers in the front instead of trying to track down struts and prices on the stuts if ya have any. also what did ya 2way cost ya and are u using the live axle or is it tru that u can use the rear cradle off an r33. and whats involed on installing the z31 hubs is there much mods needed to fit em. thanks heaps for the info.

and also how would i go about getting the hubs made up. cheers

Edited by cuttz

You might need to specify aus spec or import as the rear ends are completely different.

Custom axles aren't cheap, and z31 stuff is getting increasingly hard to come by. Yes its true that you can 'use' a 33 rear subframe, but its certainly not worth the significant expense imo.

Jump on the r31 forum there are plenty of guys drifting aus spec 31s there with detailed build threads you can get all your info from. Judging by the list of mods your looking at you may find an s13 or race only s14/r32 will be cheaper and have more potential given the aftermarket support.

btw a dog box on its own is worth more than everything else in your list put together including the car.

Edited by DCIEVE
You might need to specify aus spec or import as the rear ends are completely different.

Custom axles aren't cheap, and z31 stuff is getting increasingly hard to come by. Yes its true that you can 'use' a 33 rear subframe, but its certainly not worth the significant expense imo.

Jump on the r31 forum there are plenty of guys drifting aus spec 31s there with detailed build threads you can get all your info from. Judging by the list of mods your looking at you may find an s13 or race only s14/r32 will be cheaper and have more potential given the aftermarket support.

btw a dog box on its own is worth more than everything else in your list put together including the car.

hey mate thanks for the info. do u know of any cheep race only cars or where is it best to look for em. thanks :P

  • 2 months later...

Seriously dont bother with a "cheap R31"... I went down that road about 18months ago with an import coupe... by the time I started collecting all the good parts I realised that getting a R32, S13 or R33 for the track was going to work out much cheaper in the long run... To give you an idea... to use the R33 rear end you are looking at about 4k to get it installed and alligned correctly.... I sold it and got an R33 instead.

  • 2 weeks later...

u dont need a 33 rear end and u dont need to spend a heap of money

my aus spec 31 set up was, spool diff, full s13 coilovers, RB30E+T, a good 5 puk clutch afew sway bars, lightly striped and a good tune 180rwkw with something crazy like 700nm

all up the set up cost well under 8k on the road and destroyed s13s, 32s in the same price range

Edited by dreadr31

As said before, you don't need much to drift a 31.

I've drifted mine and all it's got is new shocks, springs, bushes, slotted rotors and rebuilt calipers. Hell, it's got an automatic gearbox and still slides.

But really you'd want an S13 suspension conversion, RB30E+T or an RB25DET, 5 pak button clutch, and a LSD/minispool/welded diff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...