Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quote on website for those cross drilled lines is awesome:

"by Michael Ham Date Added: 01/17/2006

Man, do these ever work! I installed them on my Nissan Maxima and that sucker actually seemed to pick up speed after I applied the brakes as I neared the intersection. Definitely improves speed and acceleration!

Rating: [5 of 5 Stars]"

Wow.....now if only I could get me some of those lines that make you accelerate when you push the brake pedal. They think of everything these days.

ADR approved (or compliant with the current rules) brake lines will give you ultimate FAIL on the race track. ADR brake lines are NOT designed for track work. You need CAMS approved lines for that, but you guessed it, CAMS approved lines are not ADR approved, ergo, roadworthy. They will cope with the pressure but i don't know why they are not legal.

I would get CAMS approved lines and forget about police troubles. Brake West do CAMS lines after i brought this up in the group buy. If you're planning to track the car at all, you're playing with fire if you get the ADR lines.

ADR approved (or compliant with the current rules) brake lines will give you ultimate FAIL on the race track. ADR brake lines are NOT designed for track work.

What about light track work with ADR approved lines, just afew times a year at the track. Still not recommend them? It seems for the price you get ADR approved here, you can import Nismo/APP lines for about the same price.

oh no! my brake lines are going to explode. As are the lines on every car sold on the Australian market....

You'll be fine moodles. I've used maltech lines for years in a couple of different cars for plenty of track work

Edited by badhairdave

referring to the group buy ADR lines as they were crimped in the wrong way. i don't know the specifics, but i can't speak for any other lines outside of the group buys ADR ones already mentioned in this thread

i'm pretty sure if you got braided lines made up by maltech, etc, they would be a different design to the group buy ADR ones from Brake West

  • 2 months later...
The round fitting is what's called a "banjo" fitting. You will also need banjo bolts and copper washers (2 per banjo fitting) to complete the job.

This only applies if you've removed the double flare seat from the bottom of the brake line threaded hole.

Hey Dale,

How do you remove flare seat from the threaded hole off the calipers?

I swapped R32 Sumitomo GTR calipers (flare fitting) for R32 GTS25 (banjo fitting) and intend to use the existing hose with the banjo fitting at the end.

Looks like I may be able to get away without having to remove the flare seat, but not 100% sure if banjo bolt with bottom out against the flare seat.

Also, when you went banjo, did you machine the mating surface flat?

Thanks,

Sam

  • 7 months later...

Hey guys, are HPI brake lines from Just Jap any good? I've never heard of HPI but they seem to think its fairly reputable Jap brand. A set for an R32 GTR is going for $399. What do the nismo ones go for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...