Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

agreed, however in his defence, finace companied need to be pushed to notify revs when their interest in a vehicle has ended. i had to ring several times for 2 cars to do the same thing. two different finance companies too.....

  • Replies 159
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hmmm i asked if it was a stat write off and he said its 'NOT' in capitals. so im asking for paperwork. insurance has had someting to do with it as it doesnt have rego. im 100% sure this car came from edward lees in june last year and i drove it :dry:

anyway, he said GMS spares has an M35, so ive asked if they are seperating it (ECU + bits for me)

I've also messaged them to confirm if they have the ECU and seperate it :domokun: Thanks man, they'll wonder why everyone is asking about an ECU lol

i was gonna go check it out today if anyone wants to come??

I would have been interested but I was tied up at the grandfather's old joint at Auburn. I don't think you got to go anyway, dude didn't get back in touch with you.

he seems to think every car thats ever had an accident and claimed under insurance is classified as a repairable write-off. wtf??

As was said from day one, the dude is a cowboy :) Hopefully he's reading this forum :)

i hope he is too! especially if he thinks its A; repairable, and B; cost as little as he seems to think, and C; his car is worth $25k!! is a base model RS with no options. sorry lol

I would like to know his reason for calling it a "Limited Edition" too , I think he's having a pull.

This car was at pickles right?

if hes bought it from there there will be no finance problems, or any other problems stopping him from doing anything.. he owns the car as it is no finance problems will exist

if anyone here is getting this car, i'd take all the black trims :dry:

For any one buying the car to repair, there was 2 quotes on the car threw insurace at over $17,000 thats why it became a total loss, there is alot of damage as the rail has gone back into the firewall a fiar way id say this bloke bought car not seeing this and now he cant fix it.

For any one buying the car to repair, there was 2 quotes on the car threw insurace at over $17,000 thats why it became a total loss, there is alot of damage as the rail has gone back into the firewall a fiar way id say this bloke bought car not seeing this and now he cant fix it.

which in plain english = not worth fixing. now if a import panel shop got the car for nix and fixed it thats another story.

how did you find this out?

On 15-Jun-09 at 01:51:22 AEST, seller added the following information: There is so much fuss on eBay about this car it’s not funny, seriously guys its really simple, if you don't want a damaged car just don't participate or bid. You don't need to send me random comments telling me stories of how you think what you think., I don't want to hear what anyone thinks and there 2 cents, all I want to do is sell my damaged stagea. That’s it. Anyone taking cheapshots only shows that you have too much time on your hands to use your IQ for something useful.

it's really simple, its a damaged stagea, with all damaged cars they can be headaches repairing, I’ve done my research with parts, I got the quotes, I’ve listed the source of the quotes, I’ve taken more photos than the eBay maximum listing picture supports, and still people are asking for silly questions like is the airbag blown, there's 4 pictures showing the dash clearly in perfect condition with no blown airbags...

I’ve even offered people to see the car for them self’s to get a feel of what needs to be done. You just can't please everyone. This description is starting to become somewhat of a novel.

Its not new., it’s a damaged car. Anyone buying it will have to repair it, like all damaged cars, its not rocket science!!!

Lol its getting so much attention that you can find it on Google "damaged stagea" who knows it might just overtake the stupid chik chik boom hits. Lets start a facebook page called the damaged stagea so we can B**** about it there. I hope you see my point, relax it’s only a damaged car.

Happy bidding.

---

Someone getting a bit toey?! :banana:

which in plain english = not worth fixing. now if a import panel shop got the car for nix and fixed it thats another story.

how did you find this out?

Mind you that the replacement parts would all be NEW from nissan. or whoever made the kit that was on the car.. + all the broken parts that you can see. airbox etc etc..

thats why the cost will be out of this world.. it really doesnt look like that much of a knock. but the rail does look like it took most of the impact.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...