Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sup,

I bought a Gizzmo IBC today to replace my ProfecA (it was going back to stock boost, after trying everything a dozen times, unit was getting old anyways)

I have read and understood the instructions completely. The unit has been installed as per instructions and operates to a tee. However I'm having 1 issue:

At almost any set duty cycle (boost pressure) - the car will overboost, and then quickly drop to the desired boost level. The higher the boost setting, the higher the spike. The higher I have the car revving before I plant it, the higher the spike.

I have it set at around 17 pounds, but I've seen it spike as high as 20-21 pounds. I now have slight oil on the intake side of the engine, looks like the extra pressure pushed the dipstick out a tad..

This is scary, I need help to fix this issue, until then the boost remains at 14 pounds.

One thing I have noticed is the Gizzmo solonoid is installed over where the stock PCM valve is.

(Please correct me in saying the PCM valve is related to regulating boost pressure? Because originally the electric plug on it was not plugged in, and I've since blocked both hoses to it?)

The hose length would assumingly be 2+ metres... Should I be moving the solonoid to a better (closer) spot?

Where are all of your solonoids mounted?

Cheers for the help in advance. :>

Edit: This happens even when using 0% gain on the Gizzmo. I'm only adjusting duty cycle. I understand the operations of the unit.

Edit: The car has N1 turbos, if this helps.

Edited by GTRPowa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271373-gizzmo-ibc-boost-spike/
Share on other sites

Try playing with Spike Stop. Just make sure the solenoid is away from heat sources such as either manifold and intercooler. My solenoid is mounted to the left of my stock actuator, just make sure the unused port is facing down. The boost spiking could possibly be a intake manifold leak. Email Ray directly and see if he can help. I had trouble with my solenoid, and had to send it back (solenoid was completely dead, wouldnt respond to duty cycle or gain instructions from the controller)

Try playing with Spike Stop. Just make sure the solenoid is away from heat sources such as either manifold and intercooler. My solenoid is mounted to the left of my stock actuator, just make sure the unused port is facing down. The boost spiking could possibly be a intake manifold leak. Email Ray directly and see if he can help. I had trouble with my solenoid, and had to send it back (solenoid was completely dead, wouldnt respond to duty cycle or gain instructions from the controller)

This is the IBC, not the MS-IBC. This unit does not have Spike Stop. :<

Edit: Where is the stock actuator? Are you talking about the actuators on the turbos? Or the stock solenoid?

Edited by GTRPowa

The stock boost actuator, the Nissan bit that says PCM something on it. Between the battery and drivers side tower strut. Where on the intake manifold are you running the hose from into the solenoid, the vacuum source could be the problem. If you need I could get my camera and take a picture of the intake vacuum source i use with my MS-IBC

Well I've had a look in the Service Manual and found the PCM valve I suspected. That's where the solenoid currently is. I figured I could move it across to the other side of the engine bay, far reducing the length of the hoses and possibly removing some of the spike?

I can slowly ease off the throttle to keep it at the desired pressure, then plant it, and it'll stay there. It's just the initial spike (that also appears on the boost controllers screen as well as the guage).

I figured it's the delay between the Gizzmo solenoid and the wastegates? Since the hoses are quite long.

The aftermarket boost gauge and controller both T off the fuel pressure reg. I replaced all hosing today with new stuff. Very short efficient T off to reduce any possible lag.

The hose going to the controller has a strong Vacuum. All connections are tight. The controller shows the correct boost, including the overboost.

this is a fairly isolated issue as we install 2 -3 a week and have never had this issue, one thing to check is that the gain and duty switches were switched aroiund and that your not actually adjusting gain. if it still plays up send me the control unit and i will get it flased to the latest ibc firmware. We are building ray from gizzmo's (owner) new project at the workshop and see him regulary.

  • 1 year later...

I have not played with the gain or anything on my Gizmo IBC.

I have the same issue... I spike to 1.3 bar and drop to 1 bar. If anyone can recommend some settings with my set up to get the freaking thing to hit and hold, it would be great.

Nearly any boost I chase just results in huge spike then back to actuator pressure (or close to it)

could it be an exhaust restriction? i had some serious spiking from the exhaust but now that its fixed i have one of the best graphs i have ever seen 0 spike at all.

mine doesnt have an exhaust restriction however i have read having a free flowing zorst can also result in lack of backpressure which can lead to wastegate creep..

heres mine with hks adj heavy duty actuators

post-40640-1280978831_thumb.jpg

could it be an exhaust restriction? i had some serious spiking from the exhaust but now that its fixed i have one of the best graphs i have ever seen 0 spike at all.

I dont think I have an exhaust restriction. I run a RSR front pipe to some cat (with centre still in tact), then out to a 3.5inch stainless cat back.

I'm not really sure whether the cat is high flow or not, but its flowing enough to reach 260rwkw, so I doubt its not an upgraded item.

:(

I had a Gizzmo IBC mounted in my car (Cefiro with rb30det). It wouldnt hold boost no matter what happened. It cost me an arm and a leg refabricating manifolds etc as thats what I thought the problem was. In the end i mounted the 48mm wastegate straight off the exhaust housing (1.06 3540) and it was still open boosting. I got in contact with Ray who was really good and tried a number of tests and still couldnt fix the problem. He promised me a new one but the NZ rep just pissed me around for months so i gave up.

I ended up taking the car to get tuned anyway. I unplugged the Gizzmo unit and plugged the same solinoid into the Link Ecu and it worked fine. So if you have an interesting setup perhaps its the controller. Ray was good to deal with but his NZ rep isnt doing his company any favours at all. Shame the product didnt work though.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...