Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26DETT

Ported and Polished Head

HKS 2530 turbos

Forged and balanced internals

Aiming for 350awkw

Couple questions guys;

1) Getting ready to reassembly the motor and I need to source a new set of gaskets for car. Should I use metal gaskets for the intake manifold/throttle bodies or is this overkill under 20psi?

2) When picking a head gasket I dont want to loose anymore mid range or bottom end but with the goal of 350-400kw should I buy a 1.2mm head gasket to keep things a bit safer, or stick with the 1.0mm?

3) Putting a power FC back on her, should I do the first engine start off the stock ECU from before rebuild then once it ticks over switch to FC?

4) How many KMs should I have on the clock before the first tune, a lack of good tune and the RB oil problem was what killed the girl first time round, turns out stock ECU on bigger turbos is stupid

Thanks guys

Genuine nissan gasket kit + jap brand headgasket kit which includes the intake and exhaust metal gaskets (tomei or Hks)

my mech recommends a 1.2mm gasket

if the last tune was bad you'd want to retune it for run in before a power tune

When mine was rebuild (and the previous motor)

PowerFC in from the start, bed the rings, tune it up... drive it home.

Nothing more too it. Oil change 1,000-2,000km's later just for a look-see and then 5,000km as normal.

Running in is a myth - i've seen more RB's belted from the ring bed in than i have RB's that do the '1,000km' run in rubbish. None of them run any different so why bugger around for 1,000kms? ;)

When mine was rebuild (and the previous motor)

PowerFC in from the start, bed the rings, tune it up... drive it home.

Nothing more too it. Oil change 1,000-2,000km's later just for a look-see and then 5,000km as normal.

Running in is a myth - i've seen more RB's belted from the ring bed in than i have RB's that do the '1,000km' run in rubbish. None of them run any different so why bugger around for 1,000kms? :cheers:

Agreed.

As for gaskets i alwasy use a phenolic gasket on the inlet (big drops in IAT on a GTR and RB30's) but for the headgasket i like to know what material has been removed from the head and block during machining.

A metal MLS head gasket and a genuine full gasket kit can now be supplied in a kit (minus gen head gasket) from MDS spares in melbourne at alot less coin than everywhere else.

Agreed.

As for gaskets i alwasy use a phenolic gasket on the inlet (big drops in IAT on a GTR and RB30's) but for the headgasket i like to know what material has been removed from the head and block during machining.

A metal MLS head gasket and a genuine full gasket kit can now be supplied in a kit (minus gen head gasket) from MDS spares in melbourne at alot less coin than everywhere else.

got a number i can yell for a price?

  • 3 weeks later...

Nobody here can tell you what head gasket to use...it depends if the block has been decked and how much, head been has been ground and how much, what sort of pistons etc etc...everything to do with the coompression ratio. The person who is building the engine will be able to tell you...you could use a standard Nissan gasket if you wanted to be really safe.

Id go the gasket set from MD Spares. It is actually a genuine Nissan kit but without any Nissan markings on it and therefore much less $$.

Use everything except the inlet gaskets.

In their place just use Threebond, as the paper gaskets will blow out under high boost. Just make sure all surfaces are clean, do not machine any surfaces as it will create big dramas, just clean very carefully with a scraper.

MD Spares kit is cheap, I think justjap sell them a few $$$ cheaper.

A friend is assembling the engine, standard compression pistons, the block was cleaned up but I dont remember being told a heap was shaved off it, I want to run around 400kw when finished with this motor so I think I will get the metal head gasket to allow safety margins.

CRD sells a Nitto rb26dett metal gasket set (Intake manifold, exhaust manifold and throttle body) for $215 delivered to me, alot cheaper than the jap a/m option

yeah the greddy ones from greddy oceania are cheap atm too, they are on the clearance list... bugger maybe it was link and Nismo items...

Edited by URAS
  • 2 months later...

With the nitto or other metal type intake manifold and throttle body gasket, are you meant to use any type of gasket cement (permatex #3, etc.) when you go to reassemble the bits?

Taking the opportunity to install a oil filter relocation kit at the same time to get rid of that headf$%k..

Taking the opportunity to install a oil filter relocation kit at the same time to get rid of that headf$%k..

f**k I hate the mess taking a stock filter off in a GTR makes, im probably a tardo which is why its messy, the relocation kit is the way to go...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstah, no, coilovers aren't illegal, especially as a bolt straight in. The illegal part will be if they're altering suspension geometry beyond factory limits, or the ride height is not legal.   Sounds like the blue slipper just didn't want to deal with any later possibility of mods appearing on the car.
    • The problem has always been that coilovers are able to be adjusted, almost at any time, to be too low. Most people who ever get/got defected for/with coilovers were actually afoul of the minimum ride height rule. So the interpretation by cops/inspectors was always that it is pointless to allow numpty to raise his coilovers and get the car inspected/cleared, then just drop them back down again as soon as they get around the corner from the inspection station.  This led to the interpretation that they were illegal unless rendered such that they can't be adjusted (ie, collars welded to the body, that sort of thing). That may or may not have ever actually been the official line, but I'm pretty sure it's not considered to be a solution these days. Coilovers themselves fall under clause 3.2 b of that manual, because they are an "installation of a variable ride height system" and they don't fit the exclusions in that clause (which point to air springs and other pneumatic adjusters). So, as per previous statements, they require engineering cert to be legal on the road. Once you have such cert, provided you do not adjust them outside the height range covered by the cert, you are OK. Without, you have an unroadworthy vehicle.
    • Here E10 is the cheapest fuel. And general advice is to not use it unless you hate your car. From what I remember it clogs up stuff in the fuel system or injectors?  With US/Canada being E10 across the board, does that mean that all fuel there is terrible?
    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW ) Edit: I checked. They aren't. https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-infosheet-light-vehicle-modifications-manual-suspension-and-ride-height.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...