Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nice and cheap if u got the connections but most of us peons have to go to a tyre place and have them balanced, fitted and aligned... not all of us are mechanics

-D

i didn't do it mate...im not a mechanic either

That's a price from Used Tyre Mart on Grand junction Rd Fitted and Balanced!

i didn't do it mate...im not a mechanic either

That's a price from Used Tyre Mart on Grand junction Rd Fitted and Balanced!

dammit i wish i knew about this place when i had the chance to score some 34 gtr rims cheap

smeg

-D

yeh i got a pair of 215/40/r18 from used tyre mart. $100 each 98% new!! $195 brand new tyres!

there good place to buy!

post-16535-1245410161_thumb.jpg

dont mean to plug my semi-legitimate business, but imho that's still a bit steap. depends what brand, i mean u can pick up brand new 18" tyres from tyre places for $100ish each, cheap shit, but still.

used tyre mart must be making some rediculous margin.

for the record i dont make shit off my tyres, i just like to see fellow import drivers not getting ripped off from bigger companies like used tyre mart.

2nlfgpz.jpg

287ns3n.jpg

I may be in the market for some 265/35/18 soon NissKid. Cheap shit I don't care LOL

Can you PM me if you get any in man?

sorry man, ill try, but generally too hard. i've got tonnes of people asking for the same thing, so it just gets too hard.

impp_0808_02_z%201986_toyota_corolla%20front_view.jpg

impp_0808_03_z%201986_toyota_corolla%20rear_view.jpg

http://www.importtuner.com/features/impp_0...olla/index.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...