Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Guys,

I'm going tomorrow to get some flanges cut up since the one i got today isnt the best.. and will get it done in stainless.

The Dumps wil be made from stainless. if you want it coated i suggest you contact hi octane and work it out with them yourself. or if enough interest i can organize a few done at the same time. obviously cost will be extra

the design however will be done by my friend, when i take my stock dump off. or if someone donates me one sooner than the weekend :D

i'll be going back to my old car for a week or so to get it done :D

Price still tba, but will be around 400-450. all depends on materials, bends etc..

I do hope it will bolt up to any Jap cat backs as I've got a Fuji Legalis-R coming. I dont see it should be any problems, but guess I have to wait and see lol.

You won't have any problems with the Legalis.

That is what Tony's car had in the pics, and a lurvely exhaust if I do say so myself!

Dyno'd with OE then Liverpool?

Do you have a cat-back as well?

I did dyno the car with oem dump/front/cats and got 137kw at all fours, but i havent dynoed it with the new Livo parts yet. I want to wait till I get the Fuji cat back before I redyno it again

You won't have any problems with the Legalis.

That is what Tony's car had in the pics, and a lurvely exhaust if I do say so myself!

I cant believe Tony is selling that nice Axis of his. I was actually considering selling my one and gettting his, but these days you can import an Axis for much cheaper than his asking price.

I cant believe Tony is selling that nice Axis of his. I was actually considering selling my one and gettting his, but these days you can import an Axis for much cheaper than his asking price.

Yep. No doubt in a few months, $35k will get you a nice PM35 Axis.

I already have the Livo dump/front/high flow cat all ceramic coated on my car. :P

And did i mention, it makes a huge difference as well :D

Does it delete the need for a front pipe?

so it will be dump/front, cat, and aftermarket cat back

whats the fitment like, how low does it hang?? i cant really tell that from the photos of that axis stagea thats for sale.

Yes you dont need a sep front pipe. The dump/front is just a single pipe, and then the high flow cat is welded onto the end to the dump/front and flanged on the other end.

Fitment wise i cant find any issues. After being on the car for about 4-5,000kms, I have checked underneath and it still hangs tightly like the day it was installed. Also, not a single scratch on the cat which is the lowest point that i can see, and considering my car is quite low with the Bilsteins, I'm quite surprised and impressed that it hasnt hit any part of the exhaust. Mind you the stock cat-back section has taken a beating though.

I will try and jack the car up one day and take some pics for you.

Be careful guys when ordering separate parts for the M35 exhaust as the images show the different lengths with one done exact to the OEM front pipe and one for were ever it was the easiest to weld the Pre Cat in.

Mine doesnt look anything like that at all. In fact, I would be a bit disappointed if that was on my car. The welds looks like it's being done by an epileptic. I seriously would get them to redo it whole thing.

My system goes from a 3" dump, to a 3" front and then a HF cat, all welded together. An aftermarket one doesnt need 2 cats. 1 is fine to do the job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...