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Help Please, Can Someone Please Lend Rb26 Coil Pack Module?...


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I'm hoping someone in Vic might have a coil pack resistor for an RB26 that I can borrow for 5 mins. The R is running on 5 cylinders atm.

Basically, i've narrowed it down to cylinder no 6 (unplug the lead to the coil pack and it idles/runs the same). I've changed the spark plugs (no change), bought new splitfires (no change, dammit!) and its still not right. Running a test light to the lead to no 6 coilpack it is getting power, but wouldnt register the triggering signal (terminal E on coilpack). So the way i figure it, it should be the module, or the coil pack wiring loom. It went from running perfectly when i parked it, to running on 5 the next time i started it (2 weeks later) and the only thing i did was disconnect/reconnect the battery in between.

I'm hoping someone can lend me one, plug it in for 2 seconds, if it runs on 6 cylinders i'll then go looking for one a wreckers and i've solved my dramas. I cant afford to buy one at a wrecker and for it to not fix the problem. Funds are too low to keep splashing cash.

If you can help at all it would appreciated.

Cheers

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Did you test for continuity from the ignitor plug to the coilpack plug in the coilpack loom?

No I haven't, how do I check that? I'm a beginner at this sort of stuff.

Yeah RB20 one will be the same.

I have no idea whether E or (-) is the trigger (my guess would be (E)), but one of those should run to one of the wires at the front side of the ignitor. So just go through all 12 combinations with everything disconnected.

If you dont have continuity through one of the wires then theres a prob with the loom. If you do have continuity its either the ignitor, ECU loom, or ECU.

Thanks Mat, got a multi meter from one of the guys at work so i'll take a crack at it this weekend.

I've got an RB20 ignitor box but it doesnt look the same, if the connectors plug in do you do reckon its safe to give it a crack? I dont want to fry anything...

the part number you need is 22020-05U00 most likely the rb20 one will have a part number of 22020-05U10 but by the look of nissan fast some later model rd20det's came with the gtr module so you might get lucky, i would not use anything but the U00 one.

Spent the last hour or so with the multi meter on the GTR.

There was continuity on all the wires on the loom from the module to the coil packs, so that loom is ruled out. Cylinder 6 gave all the same responses as the other working cylinders.

I unplugged the Power FC and tested continuity from the terminals from the ECU connnector (using R33 GTR ECU pinout diagram) cylinders 1-6 to the loom that plugs into the coil module. Again all was good.

I plugged in the old standard Nissan ECU (i'm supprised that it ran at all with bigger afm's and injectors!) and it still wont fire on cylinder 6.

So the ECU is sending the signal, the main loom is sending it to the connector at the back of the coil module, and the loom on the other half of the module is ending it to the coilpack. That leaves (from what I can tell) just the module itself. Its getting orders from the ECU but not sending it on the coil no 6.

The RB20 module I had looked the same, but the connectors were different (the plastic guides, pins looked the same) so i couldnt test with it. So i might just bite the bullet and buy one from a wreckers and hope that the process of elimination was correct :P

The only other option if its not the module, it it could be injector no 6 (Nismo's I bought new and have only been in the car for 2 - 3 thousand kilometers) or the the signal going goin to it.....

I'll try to totally rule out ignition issues then move on to the injectors next.

what about the coil its self?

Try swapping it with another cylinder, if the cylinder you swapped it with is then not firing then its the coil pack.

I bought a set of brand new Splitfire coils and fitted them, no diffence at all, definitely not the coils.

And I havent done a comp test because I cant see how i could blow a piston/ring when starting at car. It was perfect the last time i drove it when it was parked. On startup the next time, she was running on 5 cylinders. I cant see how it could have mechanincally failed so bad. If electrics arent to blame then youre right, i'll give it a comp test to check if its all good.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys, keep them comin!

  • 4 weeks later...

Found out what was actually causing the car to run rough. Turns out the inlet manifold gasket had let go into cylinder no6.

Never heard of that happening before, i expected it to be electrical or fuel related, oh well at least its running again. I finally get to drive it after about 3 months...... Cant wait :huh:

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