Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr: Very Difficult To Select Gears

omega36
 Share

Recommended Posts

omega36 Proficient

omega36

Posted
Posted

Ello.

I have a bit of a problem with me clutch/gearbox - 1st is very difficult to select, and 2nd also gives me trouble (and even 3rd slightly shows some resistance) but especially the reverse gear..

Now I'm quite sure it's not the gearbox (?) as I initially thought, but more the clutch - the reason I say this is that even though the clutch is fully pressed down, when I select reverse (eventually after quite a struggle), it feels as if the gear is now engaged as the car starts to move slowly (on a flat plain).

Also, my clutch has recently become (more) heavy... so the problem wouldn't be simple like a stretched clutch cable would it? It's a GTR, so it can't be a simple problem.....

Anyway - the car is off to the mechanic tomorrow, would like to just have some idea of what it may be before I take it there.

Cheers for your help! :laugh:

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted
Argh. Sounds expensive. Do you know if it's a painful job and if it's expensive? :laugh:

You can do it yourself with a 12 & 14mm socket, a phillips screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and a rebuild kit for about $15-20 for each.

Piece of cake.

omega36 Proficient

omega36

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys -

We actually found that the clutch booster cylinder has split so there's an air leak there, so that's being replaced. Also getting my leaking ABS unit replaced as I assume the brake master cylinder also needs to come out of the way for the clutch booster cylinder to be replaced.

I hope there isn't a problem with the clutch's pressure plate as well :)

The GTR strikes the bank again ;)

Monky Apprentice

Monky

Posted
Posted

Yeah what was the verdict I have the exact same problem, 1st and reverse are almost impossible which makes traffic lights interesting.

Can you let us know what it was, from what I have ready usually clutch related i.e worn cover, pressure plate or both. I'm running a OS Giken twin plate which has already been refurbished back in 2006, loooks like it's time again!

M

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

I had a similar problem with my previous clutch.

I had a leaking slave cylinder so had that replaced. When they installed it they didn't bleed the clutch fluid properly, I noticed it was a little crunchy on the way home when I picked it up but kinda came and went.

Had zero time to do it myself, and the workshop were too far away, so kept driving, clutch pedal kept getting heavier and heavier, hard to get into gears sometimes. Clutch wore out as it wasn't disengaging completely, then pivot ball snapped and fell out the bottom one day.

New clutch for me. Had a lot of other stuff being done around the same time so new clutch made sense anyway - thats how I justify it....

Monky Apprentice

Monky

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the reply Paul, do you think having air in the system contributed to your clutch failure or would you say it was worn regardless?

I'll have a look at my slave and master shortly and see anything dodgy. My car is running just shy of 600hp so it's possible mine is just worn from use.

M

I had a similar problem with my previous clutch.

I had a leaking slave cylinder so had that replaced. When they installed it they didn't bleed the clutch fluid properly, I noticed it was a little crunchy on the way home when I picked it up but kinda came and went.

Had zero time to do it myself, and the workshop were too far away, so kept driving, clutch pedal kept getting heavier and heavier, hard to get into gears sometimes. Clutch wore out as it wasn't disengaging completely, then pivot ball snapped and fell out the bottom one day.

New clutch for me. Had a lot of other stuff being done around the same time so new clutch made sense anyway - thats how I justify it....

DS-ZILR Collaborator

DS-ZILR

Posted
Posted

must be the season for failing clutch boosters mine has a nice split through it! im after a new one anyone got a source for em? also heard you can use some model nevara clutch master cylinder and clutch booster dont suppose anyone has more info on this?

cheers crew

Dion

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted
would you say it was worn regardless?

Nah the clutch was in good condition, was not too old and didn't go out in the usual way. It was either air in the fluid or the clutch fork & pivot were not aligned properly causing the crunch, and ultimately caused the pivot to fail.

600hp eh... yeah I imagine you would move through clutches fairly regularly. Better than gearboxes or driveshafts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...