Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Did they tune the car or jsut run it on the dyno? Are you simply pointing out the differences in dynos?

Tune , i wanted to get the best numbers i could with the mods i have on my car. Just posting the details- time taken, hp reached and dollars charged

Oh ok. They are cheap tunes :P

What was the order of tuning. I mean the last guy is in the best position as he would have only been tweaking what otehrs had already done, whilt the first guy would have had the hardest job with the most work to do....lol or so i would think :)

Oh ok. They are cheap tunes :P

What was the order of tuning. I mean the last guy is in the best position as he would have only been tweaking what otehrs had already done, whilt the first guy would have had the hardest job with the most work to do....lol or so i would think :)

i dont know the ins and outs of tuning thats why i get guys like this to do all the work on my cars, all i can go by is dollars spent, time taken and hp reached. Just thought id post what i know.

so youve demonstrated by wasting money and running around chasing a few kw here and there that you should have been happy with your initial tune???

For me its not just the figure, its how they go about it.

Would love to know how much timing those workshops have in the tune. Might suprise you.

Yeh, ditto. But curious to know the order of who tuned the car first and last. Any feedback on the good old seat of the pants or fuel economy, or drivability? Pros/cons? LOL, i would kill for even your lowest figure :P

i put the dates next to stats , godzilla was back in march - cnj was friday - Mercury was today.

if i start putting up who i thought was best , might put a few noses out of joint (considering i dont know much about the tunning side)

Just out of curiosity what makes these three shops three of the best ?. Would just be interested as to what you base this statement on word of mouth, advertising, some ones recomendation ?. As from my own experiance i can tell you that you can not tune a car properly in 30 min 60 min would be pushing it for a good tune and the other place mentioned has sever attitude problems/very poor customer service and I personally know people that have had issues with all three of the workshops you have mentioned. So would just like to know your logic behind that statement.

i can see what you was trying to do but its not really help full to anyone.

its ok if you want to win prizes at auto salon but performance needs to be tested over a series of set goals. like taking it to the track with similar weather and tyre conditions without changing anything but the tune. ect ect. the CNJ tune for example is the lowest hp but it might be 2 seconds a lap quicker because they had tuned response rather than top end. and it might do 20 laps back to back because it was a safe tune. where as one of the others may be slow around a track because the car is laggy as shit and has un usable power. this tune may also only manage 4 laps back to back because it gets hot and starts to knock.

a good example is a friend of mine has a tuner "A" do all the work to his r33gtst. tuner A road tuned the car and had it put on a dyno just for a figure. it got a smigin over 300rwkw. but it would not even do a burnout. because it was a shit tune but it made 300rwkw. so he took it to tuner B who fixed all the issues caused by tuner A and got it retuned but it put out less power. but it does a good skid and runs like never before.

moral to the story is it the pice of paper doesnt mean much.

i have a few questions!

1. was the ecu reset between each tune?

2. who set the boost control, 2 graphs went to 20psi... but the godzilla one goes right up to 32psi (thats big boost and drops back to 20psi)

3. what turbo/turbos is on that thing? "WHY SO LAGGY"

i have a few questions!

1. was the ecu reset between each tune?

2. who set the boost control, 2 graphs went to 20psi... but the godzilla one goes right up to 32psi (thats big boost and drops back to 20psi)

3. what turbo/turbos is on that thing? "WHY SO LAGGY"

Where does the godzilla graph go to 32psi of boost

Rhys

post-48948-1244343705_thumb.jpg

godzilla motorsports. intake temp 56o, max power 519hp (and why on earth hp in Aus unless they want the number to look bigger?) 389kw

CNJ intake temp 27o, max power 283kw

mercury motorsports intake temp 25o, max power 514hp (same again, why?) 386kw

anyway, unless you've asked for or noticed major changes in the tunes, all you have demonstrated is dyno readings are a pretty meaningless comparison. The the 2nd tune feel like it had 40% less power?

like Damzo, I'm wondering what made you prefer one shop over the others - if you are worried about forum rules just call them shop 1, 2 or 3

Dont want to turn this into a he said she said .... they are the facts of what power they each got out of my car . I didn't have a preference over any of these shops , just thought id give out what happened.

if you have an alliance with one of these shops and feel the need to defend them cool go right ahead. Im not going to be dragged into all that bitchiness. i just wanted to put a bit of news out there.

oh yeah and i only meant "these three shops are SOME of the best in brisbane" im sure there are other shops just as good, these are just the three i went to. (tissues anybody ?)

did the tune with lower power really feel like it had half the power of the others?

did you re-set the power FC each time before going to the next tuner? that would be the way to go, see what each of them can do with the same starting point. cause if they are all just building on each others tune then it's hard to draw any conclusions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...