Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

easily overloaded tho

say u wire in power from the ciggie lighter

then plug a GPS into the ciggie lighter can cause it to overload and blow the fuse.

They're on two different circuits. The lighter power and light power sources are different.

I had a guy come to me wanting me to wire in 8 gauges (yes 8) in his car. What I had to do was use relays to power both sides and use the spare in his fuse box for overload.

If you're only running the one gauge you'll be okay to pick it up from the lighter light circuit, even better if you used LED's to keep the current draw down.

+1 for cigerette lighter. the light uses a serperate power feed but the same earth as the power for the lighter itself.

mines been running off there faultlessly for near a year. Using an LED in my boost gauge but :bunny:

Link it off the ring around the cig lighter. That turns on with headlights

Its the top connector in the picture below;

gallery_46113_2344_49202.jpg

Instructions on how to get to it is here;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...em-t204874.html

I'm also trying to find wire clips (that let you tap into power from an existing wire), but can't for the life of me find them on the Jaycar website, are they called something else?

I'm also trying to find wire clips (that let you tap into power from an existing wire), but can't for the life of me find them on the Jaycar website, are they called something else?

Scotch lock quick splice connectors. You can also use T-taps.

Should have mentioned. Go to any car parts mob like Malz, or Stupid Cheap. You'll have a better chance of finding them there than at Jaycar who are more electronics oriented.

I'm also trying to find wire clips (that let you tap into power from an existing wire), but can't for the life of me find them on the Jaycar website, are they called something else?

Dick Smith have some that wrap around the source wire, and provide a spade connection for the branching wire.

o cheers for the info

my friend must of linked it to the wires going to the actual ciggie lighter .. not the circle light around it.

so if i link a boost gauge to that wire it will dim it self at night?

o cheers for the info

my friend must of linked it to the wires going to the actual ciggie lighter .. not the circle light around it.

so if i link a boost gauge to that wire it will dim it self at night?

If you use the cigarette light, it will be full brightness at night, and not light at all during the day. Though if you lightsource the climate control uses, it will be full brightness during the day and dim at night (that's if the light will work on the dim voltage whatever it be)

so if thats the case i would connect the purple dimmer wire on the guage to the climate control and the red power wire to the ign wire or something similar?

Now that I think about it, putting the dimmer wire on the climate control is a bad idea, since you would need the climate control always turned on.. I didn't think about that consequence since my CC is always on. Stock headunits have a dimmer function iirc, if you have a aftermarket headunit just look for a wire not connected (im guessing nobody keeps the dimming function with A/M decks)

you dont need the light to be on during the day?

just go straight to the cig lighter light. Easiest and most effective. Dont worry about diming and stufff. If your that worried put a variable resistor in the circuit somewhere....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...