Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Have had a problem with axle tramp with my car and been trying to fix it but having no luck.

What ive done so far;

- SuperPro SPF2687K RR cross member insert enhancement mount (had to drop whole subframe to install etc)

Still had axle tramp, so put in new suspension;

- Bilstein shocks w/ kingsprings; set at 340mm on rear

Still have axle tramp :P

Does anyone know whats causing the problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274697-axle-tramp-in-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

btw

10% of the time it’s tyre pressures, the sidewall flexes and releases. Try pumping the tyres up and see if the axle tramp stops and/or gets less.

5% of the time it’s worn subframe bushes, since you have fitted a rear subframe alignment kit (pineapples) I suspect that isn’t the problem in your case.

25% of the time its drive shaft angle, the car is TOO LOW and the angle of the universal joints are winding up the drive shafts. If your car is lower than 345 mm centre of wheel to guard on the rear, then try raising it up.

60% of the time it’s incorrectly matched spring and shock damper rates. The rebound (extension) damping is not sufficient to control the oscillations of the springs. Standard springs with worn shocks get this problem. BRAND NEW aftermarket coil overs get this problem where the spring rate is too high for the shocks to control.

Once you have eliminated 1, 2 and 3, then your problem is #4

:banana: cheers :)

those GIII's arent the same ones i had on when i sold them to u are they? (think thats what i had on)

yeah they the same tyres, they just reached the indicators.

10% of the time it’s tyre pressures, the sidewall flexes and releases. Try pumping the tyres up and see if the axle tramp stops and/or gets less.

5% of the time it’s worn subframe bushes, since you have fitted a rear subframe alignment kit (pineapples) I suspect that isn’t the problem in your case.

25% of the time its drive shaft angle, the car is TOO LOW and the angle of the universal joints are winding up the drive shafts. If your car is lower than 345 mm centre of wheel to guard on the rear, then try raising it up.

60% of the time it’s incorrectly matched spring and shock damper rates. The rebound (extension) damping is not sufficient to control the oscillations of the springs. Standard springs with worn shocks get this problem. BRAND NEW aftermarket coil overs get this problem where the spring rate is too high for the shocks to control.

Once you have eliminated 1, 2 and 3, then your problem is #4

Ive eliminated those 4 options! where is option 5!! (apart from car sitting atm at 340mm instead of 345mm, i doubt 5mm would make it magically disappear...)

Bilstein shocks and springs were supplied as package from suspension place, so they matched perfectly.

So you've got a mate who has seen the rear axles tramping?

Rather than dumping the clutch, have you tried feeding the power ie slightest clutch slip?

Havent got a person to see it, but i definitely feel it when driving. Loud banging in the rear and the gear shifter going nuts haha

I guess ill see if the problem goes away with new tyres, but just wanted to make sure that is the problem...

Thanks

Axle tramp rarely happens while you are driving along. Might I suggest that it could be something in the drive shaft, maybe the centre bearing packing up.

By driving i meant launching in first gear, sorry for the confusion. Was indicating that ive only felt it and havent had a friend spot it from outside the car.

yeah they the same tyres, they just reached the indicators.

haha wow

Ive eliminated those 4 options! where is option 5!! (apart from car sitting atm at 340mm instead of 345mm, i doubt 5mm would make it magically disappear...)

Bilstein shocks and springs were supplied as package from suspension place, so they matched perfectly.

have u tried putting ur pressure up to say 50psi? also the only real way to eliminate all the options is to put the height up to around 350, but yeh i doubt that's it, probably not worth the trouble of lifting the car.

with ur subframe bushes, did u install them urself?

haha wow

have u tried putting ur pressure up to say 50psi? also the only real way to eliminate all the options is to put the height up to around 350, but yeh i doubt that's it, probably not worth the trouble of lifting the car.

with ur subframe bushes, did u install them urself?

haha the tyres have served me well, its not like i wear em out cause any sign of traction loss is painful to the car lol

nah i got traction tyres to install them (http://www.tractiontyres.com.au )

Tried to get them to have a look at it, but roads were too wet.

yeh i had terrible axle tramp, would get it taking off in first or just going round corners/round abouts at speed, pineapples didnt work so i got coilovers, no problems since, well, still slight hint at hard launch in first, but still got subframe bushes waiting to go in so should eliminate all together, then my car might be too low, anyways its easy to put up with now

coilovers ftw

yeh i had terrible axle tramp, would get it taking off in first or just going round corners/round abouts at speed, pineapples didnt work so i got coilovers, no problems since, well, still slight hint at hard launch in first, but still got subframe bushes waiting to go in so should eliminate all together, then my car might be too low, anyways its easy to put up with now

coilovers ftw

coilovers come standard in skylines, so a bit more info into what the coilovers actually are might help lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...