Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ lucky I've got a heap of HDD space, then

pre-ordered a standard copy from JB Hi-Fi last night, and the woman at the check out mentioned they were currently embargoed- which means they're in the country ready to go. probably under military guard!

my receipt confirms release date is 25/11/10 :)

The australian version actually gets made here, so they hve been here for a little while now.

Stealth Vehicle Pack ($300 version):

* Audi R10 TDI Stealth Model

* Honda NSX GT500 Stealth Model

* Mazda 787B Stealth Model

* McLaren F1 Stealth Model

* Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG Stealth Model

* Nissan GT-R GT500 Stealth Model

plus the chrome pack

Chrome Line Pack (both $130 and $300 versions):

* Shelby Cobra 427

* Lamborghini Murci lago LP 640

* Audi R8 5.2 FSI Quattro

* Mercedes-Benz 300SL Coupe

* BMW M3 Coupe

EDIT: damn, beat me to it. and yes, the $300 version gets both lots of cars.

the $130 version also gets a 200 page booklet.

DAS KAMU, the EBgames site now shows this banner for the signature edition, lol

banner_onepercustomer_onlyonline.gif

so if i buy the standard edition will i ever be able to drive the lp640 and the cobra????? or will i have to buy the more expansive one.......

also wats with the stealth models???

1 more question, anyone know if you can customize the cars, like besides the wheels and performance parts,(body kits and spoilers) im not refferring to neons and hydrolics and shit like that.....

from what ive read you can upgrade all 1000 cars performance-wise (dunno about that shwimwargon thing though, or whatever it is haha), except for every one of the 800 "standard" cars, you cannot change the wheels at all and have to live with the factory wheels and colour, bullshit i know. :rofl:

except for every one of the 800 "standard" cars, you cannot change the wheels at all and have to live with the factory wheels and colour, bullshit i know. :rofl:

Found this out today, rather pissed...

Started NFS shift again to get back into the groove... And then remembered why I don't play it.

guys i just read rims can be changed on ANY car no matter what..

ffs will you guys stfu and just wait till thyursday and find out for realsies then??? instead of speculating bullshit?

go sell some bikes or somthing..

bunch of whingers.

Edited by Mr Eps
guys i just read rims can be changed on ANY car no matter what..

ffs will you guys stfu and just wait till thyursday and find out for realsies then??? instead of speculating bullshit?

go sell some bikes or somthing..

bunch of whingers.

im just going by what one of the latest reviewers has said, whos been playing the full version over the last few days..

im far from whinging haha, aslong as i can change wheels on my 32/33/34 GTR im all good.

so if i buy the standard edition will i ever be able to drive the lp640 and the cobra????? or will i have to buy the more expansive one.......

also wats with the stealth models???

1 more question, anyone know if you can customize the cars, like besides the wheels and performance parts,(body kits and spoilers) im not refferring to neons and hydrolics and shit like that.....

i'm pretty sure the stealth and chrome line packs are purely DLC, so i'm sure they will be available to purchase seperately, for a small fee (since EB games is doing the stealth pack with the standard edition of the game). also those cars will still be in the game, i'm just guessing that with the addition car packs you simply get those cars straight away and you don't have to earn/buy them, but i really don't know. it could simply be that they aren't in the game and the car pack simply adds them into the game but you don't get them for free.

guys i just read rims can be changed on ANY car no matter what..

ffs will you guys stfu and just wait till thyursday and find out for realsies then??? instead of speculating bullshit?

go sell some bikes or somthing..

bunch of whingers.

and as someone else replied to you, according to a reviewer with the actual game, standard cars wheels cannot be changed. no speculating involved here. i think maybe you should go and change your tampon.

and yes, there will be 2 player split screen, just with limited views available (seems to just be bumper and above car views, and can't save replays)

Does anyone know how much GT5 is going to be on release date? Dick Smith has a online preorder for $78 but I would rather just go and buy it if I can. I really dont fancy paying $99 at Jb or $118 at EB, so if anyone knows that would be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...