Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

been offline for more than a week...get back and its a big patch. yay. got my '88 countach from the online collectors garagee.

some cool pics, and mighty amounts of game play you guys have been doing by the looks of it. keep it up

oh, anyone played with the clutch much??(G27)

ive read you need to press triangle and blah blah blah before the race starts but after it loads and yadda yadda.....all crap

it works fine, just make sure you use it for every change after touching it, dont flat shift (which is a bit lame), and dont miss anything. it is very rewarding to use once you get used to it. makes for much smoother downshifts especially in that dambed top gear challenge in the lotus

i can only manage 1:37's in my R33 GTR V-Spec LM Limited

Had to detune it to get it into the power range lol. Still, not sure how your supposed to do it in this GTR, looks like the newer the GTR the better

lol.. u said r33

So I see on GTP yesterday that you get 3.7 million xp for winning the Nür 24Hr on B-spec. God only knows how much you get on A-spec; ~6 mil?

Of course since you're already at lev 40, it makes no difference to your levelling- But what an awesome way to turn noobie Bobs into track-meisters in one hit.

i can only manage 1:37's in my R33 GTR V-Spec LM Limited

Had to detune it to get it into the power range lol. Still, not sure how your supposed to do it in this GTR, looks like the newer the GTR the better

Have you reduced the weight of it? but as i said, in my r34 n1 i could only get 1.31's so i hd to use an r35. From memory i didn't change the oil because that would've put me over the power limit so i just put a basic air filter on it and that took it to exactly 493. i also had aero mods on it too

i hope so. hes a average-slightly cool driver, and yet gets flustered and easily hits red while im telling him to ease up. not until he poorly overtakes everyone does he then settle and get into a good rhythm. mind you i only just started B spec...lvl 4. i just dont like doing mods to crappy little cars that won the A spec stuff for me easily

Yep R35 v spec is the way to go..... took my about 5 goes to learn the track properly but I got gold. Struggling with the Fiat challenge though I can only get silver anyone got any tips for golding it?

i didn't even use the v-spec. i just used the normal one and saved myself 100k, LOL

as for the fiat, i too have only got silver. my last attempt i was 2 seconds behind. the big thing i found is that after driving plenty of fast cars, with the fiat you have to remember that you are going much slower, so you ease off the brakes a bit sooner otherwise you wash off too much speed. also on the last corner you can hold it flat the whole way round, however this causes you to run a bit wide, so if you lift off a bit and get a straighter line, and if you are using an auto it should drop back to 4th which will give you better acceleration. if you hold it flat you end up going the same speed at the end of the corner but you are still in 5th and don't accelerate as fast. also draft down the back straight as mush as possible.

i hope so. hes a average-slightly cool driver, and yet gets flustered and easily hits red while im telling him to ease up. not until he poorly overtakes everyone does he then settle and get into a good rhythm. mind you i only just started B spec...lvl 4. i just dont like doing mods to crappy little cars that won the A spec stuff for me easily

what I've learned is when you get a chance to create a driver soon, keep hitting the 'new driver' button until they have as much attitude as possible: it makes them quicker in the long run (which is what you need for being able to start a race and come back hours later to a win)

what I've learned is when you get a chance to create a driver soon, keep hitting the 'new driver' button until they have as much attitude as possible: it makes them quicker in the long run (which is what you need for being able to start a race and come back hours later to a win)

yeah but the flipside to that is when they're battling an opponent and they're meter goes all the way into the red they'r almost definately going to have a fantastic crash. if your not cheating and your using a proper car so as not to give yourself a stupid advantage then that would probly cause issues?

yeah your both right. it does cause isues. but i can see what shaun is getting at. i would like to be able to walk away in the big races...at least for a while. ill make sure i have a driver on both ends of the scale :)

hot-heads all the way baby

I was winning the Roadster 4hr by 16 laps using a heavily modified car. the ones with maxtreme attitude are always keen to maintain their lead or overtake lap traffic. recognize

Sounds good to me. Only just picked up my second driver (don't get much time to play :() and made sure he was a hothead.

My coolheaded driver doesn't allow me to walk away from a single B-spec race. Even in the early races against 300ZX's etc he becomes so complacent in the 650+hp LFA that he will drop his half lap lead and let others overtake him.

Looking forward to just letting a driver drive on his own.

Sounds good to me. Only just picked up my second driver (don't get much time to play :() and made sure he was a hothead.

My coolheaded driver doesn't allow me to walk away from a single B-spec race. Even in the early races against 300ZX's etc he becomes so complacent in the 650+hp LFA that he will drop his half lap lead and let others overtake him.

Looking forward to just letting a driver drive on his own.

yup- that's why I retired the cool driver I got second and started again. He was rubbish at being left to it.

Anyone looking to buy a HKS PS3 Racing Controller? I think I see one for sale somewhere cough cough :whistling:

pretty sure someone in this thread bought one. personally i wouldn't waste the money, especially just because it has HKS on it. just get a white-out pen and write HKS on your controller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...