Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just found that you can't have more than 20mil credits...scumbags ripped me off about 100k that last race.

Old news dude - get with the program

I found out about 10am yesterday :whistling:

But yeah - just go on a spending spree!!

Does anyone know if you get the same exp for enduros on A-Spec as you do for B-Spec? I'm doing the level 35 24 hr enduro B-Spec race and you have to do it about 7 times to reach level 40 :down: As if anyones going to do it that many times in A-Spec...?

Just checked up on my B spec drivers and here is my highest earner over the last few days, no one should ever be broke again with the remote feature.

Agreed.

I ran about 14-15 races yesterday with a full 16 driver grid (although 6 or them were mine).

$875k while at work is pretty handy.

im 5.5 hours into the le mans 24 hour b spec race and wow i love the time, night&dark etc this is awesome. but yea polyphony really do need to sort out the issues with the headlights. if u go to bumper cam/cockpit cam you cant see more than about 10 meters ahead, and im sorry but that just doesnt cut it when your doing 400kph+ you need realistic lighting. but thats about the only major gripe i have with this game. im sure its nothing they cant fix with a software update and they've ironed out most the other kinks in the game so far so hopefully this one isnt far off

Hehe I'm about 8.5 hours in - great minds think alike, hey?

Is yours a rainy race? Mine started with rain and hasn't changed. The Minolta can't use its huge power advantage in the wet, so unless I'm telling the driver to speed up, he drops pace and lets the others catch up. Hope I can build enough of a lead by tonight so that they can continue through the night without dropping a place.

Yes - there's no way I could drive these cars at night - the headlights are awful - even worse with the rain. Seriously needs to be addressed if I'm even going to bother with any night races / stages (including rally)

Edit: almost 10hrs in and all drivers pitted for intermediates. Guess that answers my question about variable weather.

Edited by warps

yeah the variable weather is awesome.. mine started out a fine sunny day then during the night it rained for a while but dried up by morning now i've just woken up and im less than an hour away from finishing but i've got oil light.. anyone else had oil issues late in 24 hour races?

Mine lasted a dozen laps on the intermediates then went back in for wets and stayed that way. I started another 24h race this morning - had 5 or 6 goes at starting a completely new race and all started with rain. Eventually decided to stick with it and they were all on intermediates. After 8 laps, all the cars came in for race tyres, even though it was still raining. Now all the cars are spinning off on every corner, so I brought my driver in for intermediates. He went back out and blitzed the field (taking over a minute off everyone each lap becasue he actually stays on the track) but the game keeps wanting to bring him back in for slicks on every lap. Farking stupid game!!!

Yes, my Toyota needed an oil change after the race (did an oil change and engine rebuild before the race started)

im curious wat the hell is the point in the car wash feature. during the race, it got dirty everywhere she was a mess, yet when i get out and look at it in the garage its clean as a whistle? so why would anyone use the car wash when it makes no difference whatsoever

I think that's meant to be damage along the right hand side of the car (I bounced off that many walls, the right hand side of the car was completely black). I notice that body damage seems to be represented with shadows, but the body shape doesn't actually change. Wings, nosecones etc deform as you damage your car, but the main body doesn't seem to.

My current 24h race has all of the cars bent and twisted at the front and back, thanks to them all running on slicks in the rain. Now it's pissing down again and they're all on full wets. Have yet to see any dry track at the Lemans 24h (although I'm only checking progress every couple of hrs through the day).

good point on the damage being black.

and i love how far the rear wings can deform and yet the car drives fine...lol

on that point im glad the damage isnt just gray and white scratches like many car games damage, shift for example. as much as the model of the crashing is better...those lines just look stupid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...