Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

basically, chumps.

its basic psychological marketing.

target market = young boyracers/gamers/import car enthusiasts. all these types know HKS, and know HKS = awesome.

therefore slap the HKS name on a product = instant mass appeal to said market = mass sales.

you comprehend yes?

and has anyone won the final nascar race at daytona in a-spec? i get pit maneuvered and spun around every time lol. on the odd occasion i do get out in front, i lose too much speed on the corners because i cant keep the car steady with the standard controller and just get owned anyway lol

Nah, too hard lol. I just settled with winning the championship.

The B-Spec one is hard ;)

The B-Spec one is hard ;)

really? the b-spec was easy i thought. set the downforce to full front and rear, and when your driver gets to the front, he'll walk away from the pack on the corners. they'll catch up a bit on the straights but you keep pulling away on the corners and eventually you create a good lead

been watching a few vids of the X1 in action

omfg- that thing is made from 100% solid-gold win: 33sec lap of Tsukuba, 38sec lap of Grand Valley Speedway(!)

gets up to 390km/h like it's running in a vacuum. more mental than a big mental thing

been watching a few vids of the X1 in action

omfg- that thing is made from 100% solid-gold win: 33sec lap of Tsukuba, 38sec lap of Grand Valley Speedway(!)

gets up to 390km/h like it's running in a vacuum. more mental than a big mental thing

lot of work to do until you can get your greasy mitts on that thing. need to be level 30.

duno about the rest of you's but im only on level 23 atm. hoping you get shitloads of xp from the endurance races.

any of u guys managed to flip a car over yet?

been watching a few vids of the X1 in action

omfg- that thing is made from 100% solid-gold win: 33sec lap of Tsukuba, 38sec lap of Grand Valley Speedway(!)

gets up to 390km/h like it's running in a vacuum. more mental than a big mental thing

yeah. will need uber reflexes to drive really fast.

lot of work to do until you can get your greasy mitts on that thing. need to be level 30.

duno about the rest of you's but im only on level 23 atm. hoping you get shitloads of xp from the endurance races.

any of u guys managed to flip a car over yet?

nah i'm still only on about level 20. i don't play it that much though, only a few hours on the weekend. my B-sepc is up to level 7 (one driver at level 5, the other at level 3 or 4)

I'm all about the B-spec as of last night. I'm hooked now- can sit there with a controller in one hand and a drink in the other and make good progress. Also lets you do other shtuff while the A.I guy grinds along for you.

Nearly at Lev.25 on A-spec, but I doubt I'll touch the wheel again until I get the X1 on B-spec.

P.s Marc- I flipped the 300SL at the Merc Nur'ing training once, and I've flipped my Mac F1 and Veyron once apiece (not counting all the times I've let the Bugatti run into the tyrewall at 420+ at the end of Mulsanne straight during high-speed Le Mans free practice runs)

the a-spec nascar race wasnt that hard, get to the front and keep them behind (use rearview to check positions)

flipped a few time trying tho. best flip, and win, was with my lime green R35 GTR with red TE37's

up to level 27 aspec and 14 bspec, 80odd% of the game completed, time to go indy racing today!

waiting for the formula gt car to come up for sale was a pain....

can earn 98k on daytona for a 3.45min 5lap american muscle race, do 5 races then check the for sales.

buying up all the rally and race spec cars atm but looking for a usa 2JU 70's race car, havent seen one in the classifieds yet

best car Ive got would be the Nissan R89C, the formula GT car is too cart-like, got to 'mild' down the turning settings to get comfortable with it

my lime green R35 GTR with red TE37's

i think i just threw up in my mouth a little. is this a xmas theme thing?

spent most of my money last night on the toyota gt-one ts020. favourite le mans car ever.

Edited by jonboy

level 23 a-spec, i find b-spec a bit boring.

flipped veyron after flying down the le mans track no chicanes and straight into the tyre wall.

also is it just me, but i cant control that f**k!ng nascar apart from the oval tracks, some tips pleazzzz????

having fun with the lp670 SV, cool car however its not that quick so i spent around 600k on a ZR1 with Racing Modification, a its a beast of a car. won me like the wind, all stars against all those le mans cars etc.

after that u win the minota and thats amazingly quick (about 6-7 seconds quicker than the R35,Veyron, LP670 and ZR1 around tsukuba) so yeh still addicted to the game.

We should make a new thread for our quickest lap times

also is it just me, but i cant control that f**k!ng nascar apart from the oval tracks, some tips pleazzzz????

use full downforce, dont open the throttle up at low speeds until your pointing straight. if you have to, use 1 or 2 notches of traction control. i managed without

But ninjas are awesome so you should probably use it all the time.

QFT, lol

i use traction control on some cars because you simply have to with a controller since you have limited throttle control (can't stand using the thumbstick).

can earn 98k on daytona for a 3.45min 5lap american muscle race, do 5 races then check the for sales.

thats 98k all 5 races combined, 17.3k per race (lame).

or you can earn 48,600 per race in the indianapolis race in the nascar series which takes 4.30 mins to complete. i think i'll go for the latter

still only lvl 18 :( no b spec yet.....freaking old lambo is doing my head in......as is the computer drivers....yes i am next to you....no plz dont just drive me off the road as tho im not there......i dont get it, Prologue had epic AI drivers.....what happened?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...