Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Oil Mods

duff

By duff,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Why wouldn't you?

You need to add more to accommodate for the oil that runs around the oil cooler otherwise if you just overfill one litre, so minus one litre for the oil cooler, you are totally back to square one again with regards to how much oil is in the sump.

** use of '1 litre' is only an example amount.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted
Wouldn't it be overfull with 2 extra litres, even with an oil cooler? as in the oil would cavitate?

You mean that the crank would 'pick up' the oil, and loose hp?

Once you install an oil cooler, first time you fill up with oil it would take more than 5 litres.

Then if you do an oil change there is still oil trapped in the oil cooler and lines so you would add as much as you usually would to suit, as if there was no cooler.(unless you drain the oil cooler as well...)

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Wouldn't it be overfull with 2 extra litres, even with an oil cooler? as in the oil would cavitate?

1 litre - example amount remember. Put 500ml there for all it means

Its commonly accepted that you overfill 1 litre in the stock format.... so add an oil cooler - you'll need more

Im pretty sure ash means 2 litres more than if it didnt have an oil cooler, not fill it to th efull mark and add 2 litres.

:D

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted
I was one of the GTRs that did the bigend bearing and i have all the mods BAR the oil return from the back of the head.

Mods done

: Larger sump with tomei sump baffles

: Tomei oil restrictors with returns enlarged

: I over filled on the day

I would say Revs and the frist sweeping turn did me in i was holding it in 4th down the straight maybe 8500rpm or so as my 4wd was playing up and getting power done was more wheel spin the grip lol.

But it still gave up the ghost so i say fit it when it breaks.

damn, that sucks :)

bozodos: I have lunched the bearings in a 25 at the track... but it had zero oil control mods at the time, no oil cooler and I was on my 7th hot lap in a row :P... I don't think they are as bad as 26's for oil control but you can still kill them

Mr GTR-32 Community Regular

Mr GTR-32

Posted
Posted

Sorry of topic a little someone mentioned there RB26 takes 5.1 litres of oil, i dont understand as my R32 gtr takes 6.3litres give or take to fill no oil cooler stock sump, and i change the oil always so im sure of this 100%.

What is going on why are there so many different opinions on sump capacity for the 26 please someone. :P

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
Sorry of topic a little someone mentioned there RB26 takes 5.1 litres of oil, i dont understand as my R32 gtr takes 6.3litres give or take to fill no oil cooler stock sump, and i change the oil always so im sure of this 100%.

What is going on why are there so many different opinions on sump capacity for the 26 please someone. :P

The service manual states: 4.2 liters for oil only change, or 4.6 liters with oil filter. It also states that the low level mark on the dipstick is 3.5l and the high mark is 4.5 l. Oil cooler wont make any difference to the fill unless you drain it, or the valve is broken and it just drains under gravity.

AFAIK everyone with the stock sump uses pretty much 5 liters. Are you SURE you have a stock sump?

Mr GTR-32 Community Regular

Mr GTR-32

Posted
Posted

Yeah Mr Kotter i have stock sump well i think that i do it looks the same as all the others i will check in the next few days as i am due for an oil change.

Its weird i know but from the day i bought the car and did the first oil change i noticed that it took more than what should have. The design looks the same and i have done enough oil changes in my time on trucks and various makes and models to know how to look at a dipstick.

Well i will definately look into this as its a mystery. :P

Mr GTR-32 Community Regular

Mr GTR-32

Posted
Posted

yeah i guess that makes sense but if i where running 2litres more in my sump for 2 years would something have happened by now with so much extra oil. I mean i hear of guys running 1 litre more for track but gosh ive would have been using 2 litres more all this time and the car has never missed a beat ever. Point taken and will check that also cheers for the input.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
The service manual states: 4.2 liters for oil only change, or 4.6 liters with oil filter. It also states that the low level mark on the dipstick is 3.5l and the high mark is 4.5 l. Oil cooler wont make any difference to the fill unless you drain it, or the valve is broken and it just drains under gravity.

AFAIK everyone with the stock sump uses pretty much 5 liters. Are you SURE you have a stock sump?

thank you. if you have an oil cooler, and add 2 litres to your oil change. it will be 2 litres over full. which is bad. if you want 1 litre over, just add 1 litre. no matter how many oil coolers you have.

  • 1 year later...
Willis Proficient

Willis

Posted
Posted

What about for normal driving, and occasional hillclimb's / mountain runs..

Do you guy's all overfill your cars with oil? I've always been under the impression that "Full" oil meant it should be o.k

I want to avoid a rebuild as well.. but i am a sensible driver, and i dont thrash my car. Only rev it to like 5-6krpm up the mountain..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • albyz34gt
      R34 N/a And R34 Turbo (gtt) Transmission.. Uh, Problem.

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...