Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why wouldn't you?

You need to add more to accommodate for the oil that runs around the oil cooler otherwise if you just overfill one litre, so minus one litre for the oil cooler, you are totally back to square one again with regards to how much oil is in the sump.

** use of '1 litre' is only an example amount.

Wouldn't it be overfull with 2 extra litres, even with an oil cooler? as in the oil would cavitate?

You mean that the crank would 'pick up' the oil, and loose hp?

Once you install an oil cooler, first time you fill up with oil it would take more than 5 litres.

Then if you do an oil change there is still oil trapped in the oil cooler and lines so you would add as much as you usually would to suit, as if there was no cooler.(unless you drain the oil cooler as well...)

Wouldn't it be overfull with 2 extra litres, even with an oil cooler? as in the oil would cavitate?

1 litre - example amount remember. Put 500ml there for all it means

Its commonly accepted that you overfill 1 litre in the stock format.... so add an oil cooler - you'll need more

Im pretty sure ash means 2 litres more than if it didnt have an oil cooler, not fill it to th efull mark and add 2 litres.

:D

I was one of the GTRs that did the bigend bearing and i have all the mods BAR the oil return from the back of the head.

Mods done

: Larger sump with tomei sump baffles

: Tomei oil restrictors with returns enlarged

: I over filled on the day

I would say Revs and the frist sweeping turn did me in i was holding it in 4th down the straight maybe 8500rpm or so as my 4wd was playing up and getting power done was more wheel spin the grip lol.

But it still gave up the ghost so i say fit it when it breaks.

damn, that sucks :)

bozodos: I have lunched the bearings in a 25 at the track... but it had zero oil control mods at the time, no oil cooler and I was on my 7th hot lap in a row :P... I don't think they are as bad as 26's for oil control but you can still kill them

Sorry of topic a little someone mentioned there RB26 takes 5.1 litres of oil, i dont understand as my R32 gtr takes 6.3litres give or take to fill no oil cooler stock sump, and i change the oil always so im sure of this 100%.

What is going on why are there so many different opinions on sump capacity for the 26 please someone. :P

Sorry of topic a little someone mentioned there RB26 takes 5.1 litres of oil, i dont understand as my R32 gtr takes 6.3litres give or take to fill no oil cooler stock sump, and i change the oil always so im sure of this 100%.

What is going on why are there so many different opinions on sump capacity for the 26 please someone. :P

The service manual states: 4.2 liters for oil only change, or 4.6 liters with oil filter. It also states that the low level mark on the dipstick is 3.5l and the high mark is 4.5 l. Oil cooler wont make any difference to the fill unless you drain it, or the valve is broken and it just drains under gravity.

AFAIK everyone with the stock sump uses pretty much 5 liters. Are you SURE you have a stock sump?

Yeah Mr Kotter i have stock sump well i think that i do it looks the same as all the others i will check in the next few days as i am due for an oil change.

Its weird i know but from the day i bought the car and did the first oil change i noticed that it took more than what should have. The design looks the same and i have done enough oil changes in my time on trucks and various makes and models to know how to look at a dipstick.

Well i will definately look into this as its a mystery. :P

yeah i guess that makes sense but if i where running 2litres more in my sump for 2 years would something have happened by now with so much extra oil. I mean i hear of guys running 1 litre more for track but gosh ive would have been using 2 litres more all this time and the car has never missed a beat ever. Point taken and will check that also cheers for the input.

The service manual states: 4.2 liters for oil only change, or 4.6 liters with oil filter. It also states that the low level mark on the dipstick is 3.5l and the high mark is 4.5 l. Oil cooler wont make any difference to the fill unless you drain it, or the valve is broken and it just drains under gravity.

AFAIK everyone with the stock sump uses pretty much 5 liters. Are you SURE you have a stock sump?

thank you. if you have an oil cooler, and add 2 litres to your oil change. it will be 2 litres over full. which is bad. if you want 1 litre over, just add 1 litre. no matter how many oil coolers you have.

  • 1 year later...

What about for normal driving, and occasional hillclimb's / mountain runs..

Do you guy's all overfill your cars with oil? I've always been under the impression that "Full" oil meant it should be o.k

I want to avoid a rebuild as well.. but i am a sensible driver, and i dont thrash my car. Only rev it to like 5-6krpm up the mountain..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...