Jump to content
SAU Community

Uk Msn Website Puts R35 As Worlds 4th Ugliest Cars

Kujotk

By Kujotk,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

http://cars.uk.msn.com/Photo_Gallery/Popup...-photo-number=1

bloody disgraceful lol

also i quite like the porsche cayene aswell.... dont know what drugs the writers are on...

Gibbo_R35 Community Regular

Gibbo_R35

Posted
Posted

Sorry did it get 4th or 7th...

Either way I am not sure why they thought it was ugly with a quote like:

"But it ain’t pretty. Impressive, yes. Cool even, the design – like the engineering – fabulously precise and detailed. But undeniably brutish with it, from the gaping grille and Terminator-like beady eyes to the cartoonish, howitzer sized multi-barrelled exhaust system. Untamed aggression is all part of the package though. And we love it!"

Anyway I love it.....like a mother loves an ugly baby.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

R35 is far from perfect in terms of looks IMO...not many Jap cars are critically acclaimed for their aesthetics...but that list is just whack. I find many in the list attractive! It's subjective anyway, you can't really make a definitive list as such...unless the authors acknowledge that their opinions mean SFA in terms of population significance :P

toddlls Proficient

toddlls

Posted
Posted

Looks too much like something Peugeot designed & would sell-not a fan at all of the look but the tech underneath all that ugliness is tops Glad its known as a R35 cause a Skyline it aint-my 2c

Sammy-qld Enthusiast

Sammy-qld

Posted
Posted

The R35 looks like SHIT in almost all photo's of seen of it online. But in the flesh its bloody beautiful has a big presense and the quality of the build of this car shows through.

When compared to Ferrari's yes it looks very different, its not trying to be $500,000 supercar with curvy sexy body shape, its trying to be a unmistakenly JAPANESE supercar that you can drive everyday and not feel like a show pony showing off just for driving it. I wouldn't use a Ferrari 430 as a everyday car but I certainly do use a R35 for everyday use.

The amount of looks you get in a R35 WOULD not happen if it was UGLY.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted (edited)

I disagree with the last part of your statement. I think looks would happen whether it's ugly or beautiful. As an example of the former, we're all too familiar with the kids in done up Hyundai Excels who get more looks than anyone...for all the wrong reasons. The worst part is, they think you are admiring it and consequently, you inadvertently reinforce the behaviour :)

R35 is going to get looks regardless because they are rare. Also, admittedly even though I don't find it attractive myself it still has a road presence for me...that typical wide and low stance of a supercar. I think it has more non-fans than fans when it comes to appearance, but the only relevant thing is potential buyers finding it attractive I guess. Also, the R35 does look better in person. Photos don't do a good job of picking up the body lines.

Edited by Birds
Max_ST-R Collaborator

Max_ST-R

Posted
Posted

I think the R35 has a truly magnificent profile, parts of it are just magnificent, some less so, take for instance, side on- from the front door to the nose, just brilliant, rear on looks great, front 3/4 can look a little awkward, but in real life its just so low, wide and mean and looks magnificent from any angle. It draws looks in real life becuase it has huge presence and it's proportions are extraordinary. Rarity plays a role too, but as I have said it has the 'X' factor.

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
Posted
That coming from the ugliest nation of people in the world means SFA in my opinion.

haha beat me to it Paul. I was about to say have you seen some of the pommy girls the brits call good looking?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...