Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bit of a simple question, but im hoping a nice easy answer will pop up.

Ive got an rb30det in my cefiro and would love to mount up an oil temp gauge. I had great plans of welding the fitting into the sump, until i jacked the car up and realised I would near on have to remove the engine to do it.

Where have you guys mounted your gauges? I dont have an external cooler so unfortunately thats out of the question, + have no need to remove my engine for sometime. Im also not confident draining the sump and then drill it up without taking it off.

Any ideas???

Thanks

Byron

Edited by SirRacer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276427-basic-question-re-oil-temp-gauge/
Share on other sites

on your relocater it would read wrong...its needs to be on your block.

I always wondered if the block and relocator mounted sensors would pick up block temperature transfer too?

If it was in the relocator in the "hot" line, it would only be out by a few degrees if anything. Hardly heart stopping.

Where on the block would you suggest T'ing into then? This all just sounds a little extreme as if im tapping into the block, i really need to pull the engine out to do so.

Any other ideas?

Cheers

Edited by SirRacer

I use a sandwich plate between block and filter, which i then have the sensor in.... seems to work fine, and if you use a genuine nissan filter, its smaller than the repco etc versions.

I'd remove the filter as stated previously and use a sandwich plate and put the probe in there. You will get the oil temperature pretty much how you want it, right where the oil pressure should be read aswell.

Oil temperature gauge mounting: I'd mount it in a place that's not too hard to see, but somewhere where it doesn't stick out too much, as you wont be referring to it too often... :whistling:

Pretty much anywhere. Just Jap do them http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=299&page=1

I used one on my old ITR. So if you get one, make sure you test fit it to make sure the senders clear everything etc. I cant rememebr what the bit on the RB block looks like, it might be fine any way. But the ITR the pressure sender had to sit in an exact place to clear castings etc, as they are bulky.

Also as i found, the blanking off bolts are tapered, and once they are in, they strip the sandwich plate out if you try remove them :)

So hand tight only my friend! Then crank it in once you know its all good and fitting snug.

Oh, and thread tape on the senders. Mine leaked a bit without it.

Edited by gotRICE?
Hi mate, i see your also from NZ. Where did you get one from here>?

i got mine from trademe, this is the one i got. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=219755214

Fits perfect on my S2 25DET, but i MUST use a genuine filter (currently using nismo), as the repco ones are about 3x as big as a genuine one.

This is where i mounted my oil temp gauge too,

3667919192_b9b851e327_o.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I picked up my block and head last week and have been slowly assembling it since then. Pictures I took earlier this week. The rest of the auxiliaries are on now. I just have my intake manifold runners to tap for my WMI direct port setup before putting it back on. I should hopefully have the motor back in by this weekend.   
    • I couldn't agree more. As an owner of a built high HP skyline, I'd be a hypocrite to not buy a Hummer for the reasons you listed though haha. 
    • Hahaha oh shit! Again!
    • Is this the one? https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=2192&rewrite=nissan-stagea-c34-rear-boot-actuator-assembly-90550-0v000 Might be worth having a look at yahoo japan as well. Though it seems a bit odd. If the motor works itself, other than being noisy, then wouldn't it be more likely that it's an electrical issue somewhere else? And it being noisy does not seem as surprising if it has been chugging away for months  
    • I know this thread is quite old, but I found it, it helped me, but I also wanted to add my experience and troubleshooting finds to the chat for others. I have not been able to open the rear hatch of my 97 Stagea for several months. Figured it had just really sealed itself up over the winter and I would just get to it eventually. Well that day was yesterday. Some time ago, I noticed my battery was going flat all the time. It was frustrating. Then one quiet night in the garage, I could hear and ever so slight humming / grinding noise coming from the back of the car. It was like a really quiet popping sound or something like sand in a very low speed blender. I took off the panels in the back and noticed the noise coming from the auto close motor, so I unplugged it and the noise stopped. And the auto close was disabled. Well, fast forward to yesterday, I tried all the tricks with power and fuse and lock and unlock and I still could open the damn hatch. So I took off the panels from the inside and found the auto lock had engaged and was stuck in close position. When plugging and unplugging the fuse, I could hear the relay clicking. So I plugged the autoclose motor back in, and the damn thing let go. And immediately started making that grinding sound again. This time, instead of just unplugging the motor, I pulled the fuse, thus depowering the relay entirely. I don't have the autoclose feature now, but at least I can open the boot and not have my battery being sucked dead all the time. Not sure what caused the motor to latch when it was unplugged from the system, but I am pretty sure it won't cause any more problems now.  If anyone has a lead on a new motor, please let me know. It's a cool feature that I would like to get back.  Hope this helps.
×
×
  • Create New...