Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow. What a bunch of crap.

All the cars you are talking about are shit boxes. When I was in Japan I saw a few R32 GTR's selling for $45,000 AUD at a dealership unlike most of the auction crap you are talking about.

Engine condition is not important????? :laugh: Ahhh ofcourse, I was getting it wrong all this time. Next car I buy I wont even inspect or test in any way because nothing matters as long as its cheap.

Because someone is ASKING 45,000 - does that mean they will get it?

No.

Because someone is ASKING 45,000 - does that mean they will get it?

No.

More than one as I said.

To be honest this whole argument is such a f**ken yawn i hope everyone who wants one gets a 32gtr for $10k and anyone who wants a 34gtr gets it for $30k and they are all perfect vehicles

I know I will never sell mine cause I am the only one who appreciates it and $10k ain't shit.

Edited by r32line

I couldnt care less if there were 50 there.

45k AUD for a R32 GTR is stupid... As the saying goes, a fool and his money are soon parted - and thats what happening if you spend 45k on a R32 GTR when you could have a perfectly clean, low KM R34 GTR landed and complied here in AUS.

Ppl in Japan obviously disagree with you. Completely original really genuine low k's GTR's were selling for that kind of money. I am not saying I would pay it but obviously to some that is what they are worth. But for some people a car is more than just a machine that performs a function.

Ppl in Japan obviously disagree with you. Completely original really genuine low k's GTR's were selling for that kind of money. I am not saying I would pay it but obviously to some that is what they are worth. But for some people a car is more than just a machine that performs a function.

Exactly!

If 45k for an immaculate GTR is crazy, wtf do you call 800k for a Phase 3 falcon?

Like all cars, there are those that absolutely love a particular model. Collectors, cashed up morons. What ever they may be, they want the car they pay for it.

Comparing what a GTR commands here v japan is just stupid. Back to the phase 3, go and try and sell that in Japan for 800k.

Exactly!

If 45k for an immaculate GTR is crazy, wtf do you call 800k for a Phase 3 falcon?

Like all cars, there are those that absolutely love a particular model. Collectors, cashed up morons. What ever they may be, they want the car they pay for it.

Comparing what a GTR commands here v japan is just stupid. Back to the phase 3, go and try and sell that in Japan for 800k.

There was a VL turbo calais sold for 20k in northern suburbs with a genuine 50k on then clock in garaged condition....point being that if i were to buy an r32 gtr or another hardcore gtr fan 45k for an immaculate low km/no accident/clean interior/engine bay model would be hard to pass up especially if its the australian delivered model.

same as the falcon; as memory serves me, they were 5k brand new at the time.

A R32 isnt a classic yet

Its far from rare

some people are idiots - same as the housing market atm really. Stupid cashed up muppets inflating prices

Yep and R32's are not selling for $800k yet.

Noone is saying they are rare and worth a million bucks.

Fact is that they're an "iconic" car. As time goes certain cars in certain condition will command very high prices.

This has been pretty much the case with most "iconic" cars of certain era's. I can't seeing the GTR's "increase" in price for a very long time to come but i think it will happen.

is $45k too much for a mint 100% stock R32 GTR today? I think yes. Is it off the planet ridiculous for a collector who plans on hanging onto the car? Far from it.

R32 GT-R Aus spec > trend line is slowly goin' up over $50K

R32 GT-R JDM > trend line is on a plateau median of say $20K

R33 GT-R VS > trend line is on a plateau of say $25K

R34 GT-R Std > trend line is slowly goin' down at about $49K median

R34 GT-R VS > trend line is slowly goin down at about $54K

R34 GT-R VS II > trend line is steady at $63K

R34 GT-R VS II Nur > trend line is steady at $80K

My 2c on market values of really nice motor cars ^^^

I couldnt care less if there were 50 there.

45k AUD for a R32 GTR is stupid... As the saying goes, a fool and his money are soon parted - and thats what happening if you spend 45k on a R32 GTR when you could have a perfectly clean, low KM R34 GTR landed and complied here in AUS.

id pay it... if it was in immaculate condition, completly stock, and had documented low kms. like bakes says about how much hes spent on his r34... "if it makes you happy, its a bargain" if an "idiot" feels he would get more happiness from an r32 gtr than his $45000, whats wrong with that?? it shows how much he values the car... he doesnt look at it as a 20 yr old junker..

i could have a perfectly clean r34 gtr... but i dont want an r34, i want a perfectly clean r32... the only reason people are selling them for $10000 is because they are about to blow up, and after finding out how much an rb26 rebuild is, they get out as quick as possible, and with all the hoons that wouldve been in a gtst, seeing the low prices of a gtr they jump in them and crash them before the engine has a chance to blow up... this naturally makes everyone else have to come down to the low price because "thats all they are worth"

sure, you could buy one of the cheap ones and put in a new engine and respray it.... but then its been fettled with, things are changed, the car is not as it was when leaving the factory.

for the same price as a clean r34.. you could have a kgc10 GTR mock up and for the same price as a new r35 gtr you could have a real kpgc10 gtr, bet noone thought that would happen 20 years ago. i know which ones id rather buy too..

HANG ON TO YOUR R32 GTR'S PEOPLE!!!

cheerio

Lint

hi slide! great to hear back from you.

i'll level with you - yes i wanted them to resell! ;) i had 3 guys on the spot which were prepared to pay up to or just under 30k each for them. one of the guys wanted one so bad that he offered me $35.5k for mine! i also wanted one for myself as a project car.

lets see how we are tracking just before september - i'll keep you in mind, would love if you could do the same! :P

cheers!

No worries at all.

PM Sent :nyaanyaa:

Or you could just admit you can't afford one and just deal with it!

I want an R35 but don't come on here saying they are too expensive because I don't have $155,800 sitting around. It is really annoying when people complain about prices of various cars that they want...

"I want an skyline with the turbo thingy and i have $900 govt grant that I saved, why are they all so expensive?"...

Please read a basic economics text book.

Jeeeeeez dude - wasn't aware that you saw a latest condition of my portfolio - hey, this is not some scumbag povvo on the other side of the keyboard buddy.

Edited by rehab2010
OMFG!

This just proves the point.

I know as does just about everyone on this forum that there are lots of cheap GTR's on j-spec. Go to Japan and have a look at the crap they auction for these prices and comare it for the GTR's for sale in dealerships.

Believe it or not most of these cars that go to auction are cheap because they are crap, nobody in Japan wants them.... :)

"You get what you pay for"

I do agree - auction cars are not as good as some you can see on in the japan performance caryards, or on goo-net. Although I'm not saying all auction cars are junk, guess their grade tells you a story.

Edited by rehab2010
I couldnt care less if there were 50 there.

45k AUD for a R32 GTR is stupid... As the saying goes, a fool and his money are soon parted - and thats what happening if you spend 45k on a R32 GTR when you could have a perfectly clean, low KM R34 GTR landed and complied here in AUS.

BS is that all these cars are holding price just because of the AUD-Yen exchange rate - if the rate goes in importers favour the price will drop - its simple as that.

  • 2 weeks later...
id pay it... if it was in immaculate condition, completly stock, and had documented low kms. like bakes says about how much hes spent on his r34... "if it makes you happy, its a bargain" if an "idiot" feels he would get more happiness from an r32 gtr than his $45000, whats wrong with that?? it shows how much he values the car... he doesnt look at it as a 20 yr old junker..

i could have a perfectly clean r34 gtr... but i dont want an r34, i want a perfectly clean r32

So are you going to buy Paul Thomas' R32 GTR? :pirate:

It's going for about that and is in meticulous condition - but I'm sure Simon could tell you more about it.

the problem with these overpriced R34 GTRs is exactly that

they have sat there for sale for the last 6 months AND will continue to sit there for sale UNTIL the seller finally gets sick of the car he loves so much OR starts getting desperate and will lower the price accordingly.

in the meantime they'll just sit there being archived to the back of the list. throughout the two years of owning my R33 i was constantly eye balling carsales for a R34 GTR upgrade. and some of them had been up for over a year. and they'll continue to sit there till they drop.

quick word of advice too.

NO car for sale on carsales sells for its listed price. and if you do buy it for the listed price you're either an idiot or you've just got too much money to burn.

Edited by DrewII
the problem with these overpriced R34 GTRs is exactly that

they have sat there for sale for the last 6 months AND will continue to sit there for sale UNTIL the seller finally gets sick of the car he loves so much OR starts getting desperate and will lower the price accordingly.

in the meantime they'll just sit there being archived to the back of the list. throughout the two years of owning my R33 i was constantly eye balling carsales for a R34 GTR upgrade. and some of them had been up for over a year. and they'll continue to sit there till they drop.

quick word of advice too.

NO car for sale on carsales sells for its listed price. and if you do buy it for the listed price you're either an idiot or you've just got too much money to burn.

+1 for cars are NEVER sold for listed price but they do provide some kind of analysis for how the market is like. I was planning to buy a 34gtr last yr and havent been looking at prices since I buy the 33. But recently I went on and have a quick check on both auctions and carsales, prices have dropped quite a fair bit and clean 33s are holding the value if not going up a little (looks clean but not neccessarily).

There's a black 34 vspec thats selling for around 50k if i remembered correctly and to me that will be a good buy since black are generally more exp than the other colours (other than limited editions).

Auction prices have came down by around 500k yen as well. And maybe 100k for 33s.

There's a black 34 vspec thats selling for around 50k if i remembered correctly and to me that will be a good buy since black are generally more exp than the other colours (other than limited editions).

Da badst! I think ill hang on to my black one then lolz

My theory on r34 gtrs is that the person who buys one, really want one so they import the best they can find and spend accordingly so when it comes time to sell, they arent desperate so they dont drop the price too much.

People who want a cheap one will import....a cheap one and wind up with something that is not ideal so they will try and sell it for a cheaper price (hence the 40k vspec in yellow i jst saw)

I chose mine accordingly and its worth every penny; I even had to say no to a large offer on the car.....so there are buyers for good ones and a flood of cheaper ones for people expecting a bargain.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...