Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I'm new to the whole skyline thing (as you can prob gather from my post count :D) but i've hit a bit of a perverbial brick wall when it comes to the install i've done and i thought you skyline guru's might be able to help.

bascially when i got my car (S1 R33 GTST) i noticed that the clutch was a bit too heavy for stop start driving that i do to and from work each day (i know man up right. but with my genetics wont be long before i need a knee op hehe)

so i decided to purchase a Nismo Big Slave cylinder and fit it myself. i took the old one off (didnt pinch the hose that the slave connects to) but i managed to get the new slave on without too much oil spilling out. tried to bleed the system, but that seemed to take forever and i was getting nowhere fast. basically not doing the bleed process quick enough.

so with the old man, we decided to do a reverse bleed by pushing the fluid up through the nipple on the slave cylinder to ensure that no air was in the system (after reading many of the posts saying the air travels up the system etc etc). however when we did a bleed on the system, only a little bit of fluid trickled out of the slave nipple. - have i not bled it for long enough?

I had a quick read over Big Zil posts (i think that is what his name was) and he seemed to have a similar situation on his R33 GTR - however he said that he got pressure back in his clutch but it stuck. however after turning his car on and pumping his clutch by hand approx 30 odd times his pedal feel went back to normal.

My problem is i just tried this method thinking it seemed logical that when the car was turned on the vacuum pressure would start. however it didnt work (even after around 100 odd pumps of the pedal)

so i throw the question out to you lot, have i not bled the system properly, have i stuffed up my clutch master cylinder, do i need to take out the junction box so the master has a more direct path to the slave

so basically its taken me and my old man the better part of 6 hrs trying to get my clutch back

any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276718-nismo-slave-cylinder-install/
Share on other sites

If only a little bit of fluid comes out when you depress the clutch i'd say there is still air in the system. Generally you should have a good squirt of fluid (say 50-100mm at least) when you depress the clutch.. Having only owned a skyline for 1 month or so i cant help with any special ways to do it, but all systems are similar. Anywhere air can be trapped, it will be trapped.

AFAIK, the GT-R has a vacuum booster, similar to the booster on the brakes, GTSt doesn't.

Now, you have to bleed the master first. If you have any air in the master, you will be wasting your time with the rest of it.

The heaviness of the clutch is probably because there is a heavy duty clutch pressure plate installed.

we havent tried bleeding the master with all the fluid in it. - prob why we are getting nowhere quick (if its not a master cylinder problem)

i'm hearing alot of things about a seal in the master cylinder, is that just the rubber gromet on the lid to form an air tight seal? or is there a rubber diaphram inside the master that creates a suction??

Cheers for the tip

one problem fixed another arises

managed to do a proper bleed on the clutch system however now the slave cylinder has failed - oil is getting into the rubber bellow of the slave so i think the piston o-rings has failed meaning either a rebuild or brand new one

kinda pisses me off cuz it was a brand new slave that i brought originally but atleast i managed to get it working for a short period

thanks for all the tips and ideas

too late for you know, and I'm not sure if the 33 setup is the same....

in the 32 nissan decided to add a "damper" and cooler assembly to the clutch line, it is a block and then big loop of pipe towards the back of the car. There is a second bleed nipple on there that you may need to pleed as well. It also means the system takes much more fluid than you would normally expect. The whole setup is commonly replaced by direct braided line run

too late for you know, and I'm not sure if the 33 setup is the same....

in the 32 nissan decided to add a "damper" and cooler assembly to the clutch line, it is a block and then big loop of pipe towards the back of the car. There is a second bleed nipple on there that you may need to pleed as well. It also means the system takes much more fluid than you would normally expect. The whole setup is commonly replaced by direct braided line run

:P

too late for you know, and I'm not sure if the 33 setup is the same....

in the 32 nissan decided to add a "damper" and cooler assembly to the clutch line, it is a block and then big loop of pipe towards the back of the car. There is a second bleed nipple on there that you may need to pleed as well. It also means the system takes much more fluid than you would normally expect. The whole setup is commonly replaced by direct braided line run

yep, the 33 does have the block with the second bleed nippe and extra lines for the clutch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...