Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

posting for a mate,

after having FMIC, BOV, filter, and GTR fuel pump installed by Fussy's, the car is running like absolute crap.

its making NO power! Boost comes on real quick (11psi) but you feel NO pull, and it breaks down and pops out the exhaust etc etc, and just wont rev cleanly.

Ive considered things like coil packs etc and have done the usual check for leaks, cracked hoses etc etc and found everything looking fine.

just wondering who can recommend a good place in sydney to take it to for prob solving and a good dyno tune. Ive rang UAS but they are fully booked out, and Croydon's tuner is currently away.

or, if anyone thinks they know the prob or any tests i can do, please let me know.

(fussy's also did a service with oil and plugs but i dont think they did much by way of tuning as they have no dyno)

Also, The GTR32 Fuel pump installed is louder than my bosch 044 pump!! is this normal?

thanks for any help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27674-r32-gtst-problems/
Share on other sites

i dont have anything to check the A:F, could be the prob.

def not the BOV leaking as i checked it (could see the valve closed as its a megasonic Tsmart and its wound in tight, and even put the stockie BOV back on.

why does a bigger pump make it richer? i understand it flows more fuel, but isnt pressure what its all about? it has std press reg.

When i took off my microtech making 200rwkw and put the std ecu back in to make 170'srwkw, still running the o44, it still ran as normal, no richer....?

any ideas on whos good to take it to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27674-r32-gtst-problems/#findComment-579043
Share on other sites

Just a few things you can check.

What type of filter has been installed and how much oil is on it?

Pull it off and check to see the AFM hasn't been coated in oil.

Then i would look at the fuel pump because it's very likely that it's running rich.

I have a 32gtst with pod, ic, exhaust and boost controller running up to 16psi on the stock fuel pump. Got an AF meter just incase but it sits in the full rich zone all the time when boosting so it isn't underfuelled (and this is the stock fuel system with no mods).

I'd also check your plugs and see if they are really black (and i mean REALLY black, slightly blackened is good), which will indicate very rich running.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27674-r32-gtst-problems/#findComment-579566
Share on other sites

Originally posted by BHDave

I'd also check your plugs and see if they are really black (and i mean REALLY black, slightly blackened is good), which will indicate very rich running. [/b]

Also when checking the plugs make sure they have the correct gap and that the temp range of the plug is suited to ur engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27674-r32-gtst-problems/#findComment-579846
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Jay95R33

The GTR pump would help it run rich too.

J

How could the GTR pump affect anything?

Isnt the Fuel Reg there to control that?

I thought having a bigger pump does not mean more fuel is pumped into the motor.

But it could be a buggered fuel reg, and the car is over fueling.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27674-r32-gtst-problems/#findComment-580534
Share on other sites

hmm.. to me though - wouldn't it be that if you have a slightly faulty pump, the fuel pressure isn't constant and thats the whole problem.. therefore while tuning on the old pump you'd try and dump more fuel in there to compensate at certain points (even if it was just appearing to fix the leaning out).. Then once a new pump is in, and everything is back to normal, you're still running the ratios for the old pump, which were actually overcompensating??? As a result its richer than it now needs to be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27674-r32-gtst-problems/#findComment-580566
Share on other sites

The stock computer will compensate slightly for a lazy pump when running around with a fairly stock car, it's when you start to max out the injector duty cycle that you start to see problems with the stock pump not maintaining fuel pressure and leaning out.

The problem with running a bigger pump is that the stock regulator/injector combination can't flow enough to maintain stock fuel pressure at idle and light throttle with the higher flow of the new pump.

Have you reset the computer? Just disconnect the battery and hold down the brake pedal for a few minutes with the igtition switched to on. Then reconnect and the computer will revert to it's base program and readjust to the new conditions. Simple, but I know it's fixed a few other peoples problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27674-r32-gtst-problems/#findComment-581175
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...