Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as mentioned before ^^^

just give your car a decent service, change all the fluids, spark plugs, give the afm a decent clean....warm it up and then go for a nice drive....dont thrash it just drive it normally and let things smooth out.....you might notice a bit of a difference in consumption....

hey guys

thanks for all the info

just a question, how do i clean my afm?

the very first thing to do would be to put your fuel economy into L/100kms. as i constantly say, a "tank" is not a unit of measure unless you drive until the tank is bone dry. for example if you are getting 300km from 40L, then that is only around 13L/100kms which isn't that bad at all. the fuel gauge isn't exactly accurate. the tiniest difference in where the needle sits can be a few litres which can alter what your fuel economy calculation works out to be. so next time you will up, fill up until the first click, reset the trip meter and see how it goes. then when you need to fill up again, go back to the same servo to fill up and again, only fill up to the first click.

also how you drive ultimately determines your fuel economy. if you only do short trips with lots of stop/starts then you will use more fuel. even accelerating like a granny uses more fuel than just cruising at the one speed. using higher throttle percentages uses more fuel, no matter what rpm. if you floor it but don't go above 3000rpm you aren't going to get as good economy as someone who only uses light throttle but revs to 5000rpm.

as for things to help fuel economy, as everyone said, check o2 sensor, clean afm. also take notice of how long your car takes to come up to normal temp. it should only take 2 or 3km of driving to come up to temp (middle of the gauge). if it takes much longer to come up to temp then your thermostat may be stuffed and needs replacing and that will be causing some of your fuel economy issues.

hey guys

In the last couple of days ive been winding out the gears more and more smooother, not so much jump on and wooosh sh*t. I

im now on half a tank with 210kms on the trip, however at the moment the fuel guage is going from half a tank, then up then guage about 3-4mm evey now and then... any change my fuel guage could be stuff? apart from the slight up and down every now and then it pretty much sits and the constant level the fuel is at.

Could it also be that the car has now gotten use to my driving style instead of going off the old owners one? (ive only had the car 2 and half weeks)

Only problem with this is that most fuel pump sensors shit themselves on my tank, it will be 3/4 empty, ill put some fuel in and it will cut off, when i know its not full. Been drivng the car around per normal and instead of 280/300ish a tank, im on half a tank with 210 kms on the trip.

also car is seeming to take bout 2ish kms to warm up so thermostat is sweet

Edited by buckets
hey guys

In the last couple of days ive been winding out the gears more and more smooother, not so much jump on and wooosh sh*t. I

im now on half a tank with 210kms on the trip, however at the moment the fuel guage is going from half a tank, then up then guage about 3-4mm evey now and then... any change my fuel guage could be stuff? apart from the slight up and down every now and then it pretty much sits and the constant level the fuel is at.

Could it also be that the car has now gotten use to my driving style instead of going off the old owners one? (ive only had the car 2 and half weeks)

Only problem with this is that most fuel pump sensors shit themselves on my tank, it will be 3/4 empty, ill put some fuel in and it will cut off, when i know its not full. Been drivng the car around per normal and instead of 280/300ish a tank, im on half a tank with 210 kms on the trip.

also car is seeming to take bout 2ish kms to warm up so thermostat is sweet

yeah that often comes down to how you hold the nozzle. mum's 2000 model corolla is shocking for it. it can cut off after putting in 3L when the tank is nearly empty, and some servos pumps are worse than others.

as for the gauge moving a bit, were you driving on hills at the time when it did it? or had just been parked on a hill before hand? that will alter how your fuel gauge reads. one hill in town makes the fuel like come on in the pulsar whenever i drive up it with anything less than 1/4 of a tank.

what sort of driving are you doing, and again, how many L's do you call a tank?

also what ecu? if it is aftermarket it is probably just tuned to be lean down low in the areas where the o2 sensor normally works.

32gtr size tank filled to the top

50 k's a day

this morning i went for a 40 min drie (20 there, 20 back)

went to go and get some oil ancd oil filter to do a bi of a service.

anywho, i left my house with 210ishkms and came home wit 245ishkms.

my petrol tank had gone from half a tank to about 2mm above quarter or a tank!

this was not stop tart either, 60, 70 and 80 km/h zones with a few traffic lights and roundabouts on the way.

and it was very fuel efficient driving.

what is going on?!?!

yeah that often comes down to how you hold the nozzle. mum's 2000 model corolla is shocking for it. it can cut off after putting in 3L when the tank is nearly empty, and some servos pumps are worse than others.

as for the gauge moving a bit, were you driving on hills at the time when it did it? or had just been parked on a hill before hand? that will alter how your fuel gauge reads. one hill in town makes the fuel like come on in the pulsar whenever i drive up it with anything less than 1/4 of a tank.

and na man, its everyday driving on flat rounds with some small dips and hills

when my fuel light comes on i have about 10L left in the tank. It doesnt usally come on till needle is just on or below the empty mark. I never drive till my tank is that empty, usually fill with at least a 1/4 of a tank left.

As for the constant gauge changing, Id say it woul be cause youve just gone around a corner (think mine sufferes worse on left hand corners) and the fuel gauge is just moving cause the fuel ha all gone to one side. Nothing really to worry about, should go bak to normal when stopped on level ground or driving in straight line

As for the quick drop between half and quarter of a tank. Mine does the same. I can sometimes get 100km on mine before the needle even moves. After that it just starts dropping, once it gets to half it drops even faster. Maybe just something to do with the tank design? but its pretty normal in skylines i think

It amazes me how thick some people are.

next time you fill up, read the pump and see how many litres, not dollars you put in. when you've paid get back in your car and press the trip button before you start it.

next time you fill up.. read the trip, then see how many litres it took you.

eg., i always fill up at around the 300km mark, and always put in about 33L, unless I had a track day, then i might do 150 and put in 30L :)

So we can see it takes me about 11L to do a 100 km of normal driving.. thats what you should be comparing. If I told you i had 300 to a tank before i fill up, that would be useless. If i told you i would probably get 500 a tank, that would be guessing.. which is also useless

32gtr size tank filled to the top

50 k's a day

oh dear son of rajab...... yes but how many litres do you actually put in. unless you drive until the car runs out of petrol. telling me what size the tank is is about as usefull as walking into maccas and saying you want a burger but not saying what type. or walking into a tyre shop and saying you want some tyres for a gtr but not saying what size wheels you have.

It amazes me how thick some people are.

next time you fill up, read the pump and see how many litres, not dollars you put in. when you've paid get back in your car and press the trip button before you start it.

next time you fill up.. read the trip, then see how many litres it took you.

eg., i always fill up at around the 300km mark, and always put in about 33L, unless I had a track day, then i might do 150 and put in 30L :)

So we can see it takes me about 11L to do a 100 km of normal driving.. thats what you should be comparing. If I told you i had 300 to a tank before i fill up, that would be useless. If i told you i would probably get 500 a tank, that would be guessing.. which is also useless

+1

for crying out loud people, if you are going to post up asking about fuel economy, give us all the info. unless you run your car until it stops, a"tank" is not a measurement as what you class as a tank could be 10L different to someone else and that could work out to be nearly 100km difference in how far you would go.

hey guys

ive made up a spread sheet to work out how many L/100km.

also differences in price, how many litres etc, so i can keep an eye on it.

just need to know... how many litre is the R33 (s2 if it changes) fuel tank?

hey guys

ive made up a spread sheet to work out how many L/100km.

also differences in price, how many litres etc, so i can keep an eye on it.

just need to know... how many litre is the R33 (s2 if it changes) fuel tank?

also, anyone happen to have a computer copy of the owners manual for r33?

ive got the service manual but want the owners manual

thank god someone spells it out. I can't believe everyone does do this. trying to figure out your fuel consuption on a tank, half a tank, a tenth of a tank or whatever is like trying to circumcise yourself blindfolded. yes you'll get a result but it wont be very good or very accurate. particularly as the gauge will often stay on or near full for about half a tank, then drops suddenly thereafter. it's completely useless.

all you need to do is:

fill tank

reset trip meter

drive car

fill tank.

look at how many litres went back in to fill tank

look at how many kms you travelled.

say you travelled 310kms and put in 40 litres to re-fill tank. (40/310)X100 gives you litres per hundred kms (in this case 12.9L/100km). or you can do 310/40 to give kms per litre (in this case 7.75km per litre) if you are so inclined. either way they are actual measurements and you can compare them and understand what is going on.

hey guys

ive made up a spread sheet to work out how many L/100km.

also differences in price, how many litres etc, so i can keep an eye on it.

just need to know... how many litre is the R33 (s2 if it changes) fuel tank?

also, anyone happen to have a computer copy of the owners manual for r33?

ive got the service manual but want the owners manual

pretty sure the r33 tank is about 65L. fuel light usually comes on with approx 10L to go, as with most cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...