Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 477
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If it makes the shirtman happy he wins :P

I am sorry to go off topic like this but I cant understand the attitude of my RB26 is better than RB30, then I am building a RB30 to replace the great rb26 and pull my tuner's name out to have a go at as well.

Not cool.

Sorry to mess up your nice thread Marko.

Apoligies for giving an example with someones name in it...that was maybe a little too much. (mods please edit name out)

Calling my engine a drag engine is like me calling yours one.

Show me an aussie built RB 30 thats so much more outstanding than what ive got. Im building one to see what all the fuss is about and see if it will actually make what ive already got better. I think the big turbo may enjoy a bit more air...so we will see what just changing the bottom end will achieve.

You were off the mark refering to my engine as a drag engine 9K...that was the point...you have no idea what went into it and how it was put together. The focus when building was to make the engine make as much low down grunt (torque) as possible with the GT-RS turbo's. The reason for this is im making zero boost at the startline as i was using a normal Power FC with no anti-lag, two step etc. When the clutch was popped the car had to be right in the meat of its torque curve pulling the car hard off the line. This resulted in the awesome 60' times which was the real secret in getting a car with limited power into the 9's...it was 60'ing faster than Kier's car with less power and more weight (1470kg) and it didn't need an OS Giken 3L to do this. Only Mark Jacobsen has 60'd a GTR on radials faster than what our car has. A high revving RB26 that has a big flat 5000rpm torque curve is what most circuit guys would kill to have.

Thanks

Edited by DiRTgarage
Apoligies for giving an example with someones name in it...that was maybe a little too much. (mods please edit name out)

Calling my engine a drag engine is like me calling yours one.

Show me an aussie built RB 30 thats so much more outstanding than what ive got. Im building one to see what all the fuss is about and see if it will actually make what ive already got better. I think the big turbo may enjoy a bit more air...so we will see what just changing the bottom end will achieve.

You were off the mark refering to my engine as a drag engine 9K...that was the point...you have no idea what went into it and how it was put together. The focus when building was to make the engine make as much low down grunt (torque) as possible with the GT-RS turbo's. The reason for this is im making zero boost at the startline as i was using a normal Power FC with no anti-lag, two step etc. When the clutch was popped the car had to be right in the meat of its torque curve pulling the car hard off the line. This resulted in the awesome 60' times which was the real secret in getting a car with limited power into the 9's...it was 60'ing faster than Kier's car with less power and more weight (1470kg) and it didn't need an OS Giken 3L to do this. Only Mark Jacobsen has 60'd a GTR on radials faster than what our car has. A high revving RB26 that has a big flat 5000rpm torque curve is what most circuit guys would kill to have.

Thanks

You will be the first to know that Willall Racing drag car lacks midrange power to improve their 60ft time.

I thought it was lack of traction......and so did Willall.

Too much lateral talks for this thread......you win.

greg, what is your customers power goal and do u know the turbo setup?

Going by the name thats on the flow chart Greg posted up, that would be my 26 head :-)

Not really sure what power I will make but anything over 500rwkw and I wil be happy.

I have a Garrett T51r with 1.05 rear on a 6boost manifold and 60mm gate

I cant wait to get it running again

I own a Skyline.. Just to lighten things up :P

Oh and to toss something in the fire, im following this thread with a very high interest since i got a RB30/25 build going, with two Borg-Warner turbos (combined power ~1100hp) hidden somewhere in the engine bay :D Other then that itll be running Bosch 1680cc's, custom plenum, ported ex. manifold, headwork and CP Pistons. Thinking of going for E85 but its more expensive here then Shell V-Power gas.

Edited by brother_david
Going by the name thats on the flow chart Greg posted up, that would be my 26 head :-)

Not really sure what power I will make but anything over 500rwkw and I wil be happy.

I have a Garrett T51r with 1.05 rear on a 6boost manifold and 60mm gate

I cant wait to get it running again

good to hear - best thing about greg is the 'image diary' he sends whilst building the engine - very thorough :laugh:

i have at least 50 pics of my build :geek:

would u mind posting some pics of the donk, even if u have pics of keirs 32 - pm if u prefer

Sorry Marko, I missed your post earlier. I don't have any pic of RH9.

I dont think Willall would appreciate me posting pics of their property anyway.

You can see it in the background on one of their R35 product threads here

http://www.gtrblog.com/category/parts/willall/

Drop them an email, I am sure they would send you a couple.

RH9 does exactly what it was built for; 9 secs quarter mile with full factory interior + aircond and 1min 17 at Mallalla race track.

Last time I talked to them, they've tweaked it to go faster but have not taken it back to track yet.

For comparison, the lightly modded R35 does 1min 14-18 depending on which pro/mortal sits behind the wheel.

Marko, if you want pics of my donk, drop me an email. I only had a few.

I dont even know where I stored those pics but it looks like a standard rb with an OS spacer between the head and block.

It's just a drag engine (which according to "some special garages", had a bad tune), nothing really special to boast about really :down:

BTW I noticed from the picture of your engine bay, you still have MAF. Wow, very nice engine with a lot more potential :ermm:

Edited by 9krpm
Sorry Marko, I missed your post earlier. I don't have any pic of RH9.

I dont think Willall would appreciate me posting pics of their property anyway.

You can see it in the background on one of their R35 product threads here

http://www.gtrblog.com/category/parts/willall/

Drop them an email, I am sure they would send you a couple.

RH9 does exactly what it was built for; 9 secs quarter mile with full factory interior + aircond and 1min 17 at Mallalla race track.

Last time I talked to them, they've tweaked it to go faster but have not taken it back to track yet.

For comparison, the lightly modded R35 does 1min 14-18 depending on which pro/mortal sits behind the wheel.

Marko, if you want pics of my donk, drop me an email. I only had a few.

I dont even know where I stored those pics but it looks like a standard rb with an OS spacer between the head and block.

It's just a drag engine (which according to "some special garages", had a bad tune), nothing really special to boast about really :rofl:

BTW I noticed from the picture of your engine bay, you still have MAF. Wow, very nice engine with a lot more potential :)

9K...no one said you had a bad tune mate...or at least i didn't...i just told you how much timing i run. You know how much yours had in it...mine has 5 deg less when tuned for race fuel. Simple maths would tell you what mine is running, i was just trying to point out another assumption (that i run mega timing) you made about my set-up was not correct.

You assumed from what i posted i was rubbishing your tune...You are off the mark again, ive posted the quote below...have another read...mate im not a tuners bumhole so im not qualified to comment whether the tune was good or bad...just quoting some figures.

...it had 5 degree's less advance than your street tune actually (the ****** ****** pump fuel tune one).

What did you expect me to do...let you make up some fiction about the whole deal and for me to giggle at you and allow it to pass...c'mon you know me better than that. I found it a tad offensive what you posted so my reply was quite direct.

I was over it and i believe you were from post #224...but you posted another silly remark. So again you force my hand.

Next month ill try and catch up when in QLD...so we can have a beer and a chat...its the best way.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Nah buddy, I was not referring to you directly when I mentioned the "special garages".

I was referring to the last tuner that I used who bagged that tune had too much timing, claimed that he could produce more power with less timing and did not give me a dyno printout with the E85 fuel at the end. After weeks of waiting for the dyno printout in the emails, I retested the car on 2 different dyno and it not only did not gain any more power (with the E85) it was dangerously lean.

That tuner obviously had a copy of the tune from my my power fc and told/show you. I barely know of you through this forum and obviously have not told/give you the MD street tune.

You see all of this wouldn't have come out if you did not drag my highly regarded tuner's name out to say that your car has been safely tuned on race fuel and has 5 degrees less timing than my MD street pump fuel tune.

I certainly do not know how much boost, timing advance or 60' time you had. I did not at any time said you have too much timing. My main points were you should not compare engine response with

1. power/boost ratio because there are too many variables that affect boost (without going into much details of Boyle's law and resistance) and power. I'll give you an example, your setup has a larger intercooler than almost all track cars because airflow to the radiator is more important for circuit setup. The larger cooler helps lower the intake temperature --> lower pressure (Boyle Law). So your setup gain power/boost ratio because of the intercooler in this case and has nothing to do with the engine.

Power/effective compression is slightly more accurate but still doesnt take into consideration of blowby and air density. There are probably some good equations to use for comparison but I dont know because I am not a mechanical engineer :P

2. dyno runs in different gears and on a dyno graphs with speed on the x-axis for reasons I explained earlier. It's best not to compare dyno graphs between different dyno at all, but if one must then (god I hate saying this) it is slightly more reasonable to use power Vs engine speed.

Dirtgarage, I still like to see your dyno graph with full boost and race fuel with the GT-RS.

This is only one of my hobby, I am not on this forum to take or hold grudges. No hard feeling buddy.

Edited by 9krpm

.....and seriously my engine was a drag engine, from Willall's drag car.

It was built from scratch with Japanese parts, did a couple of runs when Willall last raced in QLD, pulled out for freshening and then used as paper weight in their shop because the drag strip in Adelaide closed. So I bought it make good use out of it for the past 2-3 years.

So I think it's a bit harsh when you brag about having faster 60' time than them when they have no access to any local drag strip to test their car and also the drag car has no engine for the past 2-3 years. Sorry if I was a bit harsh on you before for that.

Again, I am not a hard core drag racer, so I don't actually know your or willall 60' times. If you are faster then congrats.

Sorry Marko, I missed your post earlier. I don't have any pic of RH9.

I dont think Willall would appreciate me posting pics of their property anyway.

You can see it in the background on one of their R35 product threads here

http://www.gtrblog.com/category/parts/willall/

Drop them an email, I am sure they would send you a couple.

RH9 does exactly what it was built for; 9 secs quarter mile with full factory interior + aircond and 1min 17 at Mallalla race track.

Last time I talked to them, they've tweaked it to go faster but have not taken it back to track yet.

For comparison, the lightly modded R35 does 1min 14-18 depending on which pro/mortal sits behind the wheel.

Marko, if you want pics of my donk, drop me an email. I only had a few.

I dont even know where I stored those pics but it looks like a standard rb with an OS spacer between the head and block.

It's just a drag engine (which according to "some special garages", had a bad tune), nothing really special to boast about really :P

BTW I noticed from the picture of your engine bay, you still have MAF. Wow, very nice engine with a lot more potential :bunny:

i think i remember reading that keirs r32 was running local garrett turbo chargers (t04)? is this right or was it running hks turbo's?

btw, what is MAF? sounds like something out of american pie - oh that was MILF :laugh:

i think i remember reading that keirs r32 was running local garrett turbo chargers (t04)? is this right or was it running hks turbo's?

btw, what is MAF? sounds like something out of american pie - oh that was MILF :P

T67-25G in the race car and TD06-20G in the street car

Mass Air Flow...its your AFM's Marko

Edited by DiRTgarage

if you guys are looking into "better" bottom ends for a 26 head look into an rd28 rb30 blocks hate life after 850hp after then its a gamble my mate in syndey anthony maatouk has pulled well over 1000 rwhp out of a single cam rb30 and the car has still not raced on full power put has gone 174 mph

if you guys are looking into "better" bottom ends for a 26 head look into an rd28 rb30 blocks hate life after 850hp after then its a gamble my mate in syndey anthony maatouk has pulled well over 1000 rwhp out of a single cam rb30 and the car has still not raced on full power put has gone 174 mph

in the same breath...Mark Jacobsen has made 1250hp at the tyres with stock (not even N1) RB26 blocks thats 1500hp!

no issues. Just got to build them right. The RD28's are well documented on here but not many use them.

Marko's not chasing mega power, just a nice responsive streeter that will hold its own against the best that Hyster has to offer.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...