Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Bought a pair of GK Tech rack end spacers for more lock. Went to get them installed by a performance mechanic that has a few drift cars in his shop and he didnt want to fit em?

He said he doesnt like putting them in because u lose too much thread the same way you do when fitting slip on spacers to your hub with standard studs.

Is this true? Or does the guy not really know what he's talking about? He said he'd use them for track only work but not street driving?

Let me know guys, cos if they are dangerous, im not going to bother with em...

Dean

Edited by Dean_HR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278710-rack-spacers-for-more-lock/
Share on other sites

As long as they're not bigger than 5mm it will be fine. Anything over 5mm is pushing it; the same goes with slip on spacers. I have had my spacers in for > 12 months driving on the street and track and I can report no adverse effects.

hmm... i really hope these rack spacers arnt on the same page of safety as hub slip on spacers cos i really dont like slip on spacers.

Can i have some more opinions/knowledge on this topic... :teehee:

By the way, love your signature dude

Edited by Dean_HR31

the reason he dosent want too fit them is if there not adr approved and they fail and you die the blame will go back on him for fitting them for road use . if they fail on track use not his prob . i dont know if there safe or not but ya mechanic is covering his own arse and in these lets sue happy times who can blame him

what are you not satisfied with... pure fact is as you have been told by such mechanic that they reduce the thread on the end of tie rod end, hence less contact thread for the tie rod to secure onto, hence theortically they are 'dangerous' more so than standard because there is an increased risk off a busted tie rod do to introducing a weakness into the suspension links

and, you have already been told that he said to use em on the track not the street because he is not liable on the track, also there is potentially less bumps etc on the track compared to average street

thats the theory

the practise is alot of people use them most dont have problems some do. the choice is urs to take the potential risk or not

Surely you can take solace in the fact that both the Tein and Ikeya Formula tie rods come with spacers.

product01-full.jpg

IkeyaTie.jpg

surely they are longer and hardened?

in my datto i had longer tie rods, custom LCA's, adjustable radius rods etc. but that was a macpherson strut setup(S13/r31 style)

Spacers are fine in my (and close mates') experience, for the street. As an added measure, to compensate for less thread surface, always use an appropriate thread-locker (choose the right loctite product for your needs). I haven't had ANY disadvantages to installing them. In fact, I think they are the best value-for-money change I have ever made on my car.

How do they give you more lock when standard the hub hits on the lower control arm? That's the travel limitation, not the effective length of the rack. Plus they move the pivot point of the steering arm further outwards, changing its alignment with the lower control arm pivot point and hence introducing bump steer.

Cheers

Gary

They are the same diametre as the rack itself so it goes 'into' the rack further. Obviously tie rod ends will need to be wound in for allignment.

Just put em in yourself and you can see how much thread you miss out on. It's not that much. Just make sure it's done right.

Then get an allignment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...