Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats My Capabilties

GTRAAH

By GTRAAH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
Posted

I have standard bottom end GOod compression low k's, Twin Boltons Garret 2860 -5 360hp each, Tomei Tybe B adjustable Cams, 700cc injectors,Bosch Fuel pump, Power fc, , Pod filters, 3inch exhaust, 600hp Cat, SHit steet tyres on standard rim, Standard Intercooler. They are the main parts i also have the other mods that are needed for this upgrade. 15psi @ 316AWKW First time ever @ the runs, i ran a 12.4 Then my second Attempt I ran a 12.004 3rd attempt I took off VERY nice but f*ked it up cause i missed 2nd gear. ran a 12.4 again. I went to do my 4th Attempt and they said no more Runs beause they were closing down. I was so pissed off... What you recon my capabilities are. When i put the boost up to 18psi @ the dyno it got 326awkw. But I didnt want to ruin the engine because its the standard bottom end so put it down to 15psi. What do you guys think??? I have been told by the guy who worked on the car it is capable of low 11's right? What kind of 1/4 run have you guys seen with a setup similar to mine... i recon if i didnt stuff up 2nd gear on my third run i would of got mid 11's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279205-whats-my-capabilties/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

should be mid 11s easy. with just 250rwkw an regular ol street tyres I ran 12.4 in my old GTR and I can't drag the skin off a bowl of soup. my next GTR with about 310rwkw ran 11.7 first time out on 18inch wheels with rubbish tyres and a driver who had never drag raced in his life.

at 120mph you should be in mid 11 territory. just need more practice I'd say. :blink:

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The problem i have i'd say is the gear changes especially having a heavy duty clutch doesnt make it much easier. But another thing is when they wet the ground before the takeoff i didnt burnout the tyres i just drove straight over u think i need to dry the tyres?? I think im going to Wsid Next wednesday try again lool NOT happy with my runs

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Ye, i dont light up street tyres - not much point other than to get the water off them (some strips are a bit 'liberal' with the water).

Although you going from 15psi to 18psi with bugger all power increase means you have a problem somewhere. With the -5s going from 15psi to 18psi should be a solid 20-30kw gain at least as you are moving right into the sweet spot.

120mph is good for low-mid 11's, it sounds more like you need to learn to pilot the car, launch etc.

Being i know of R32 GTR's running mid 11's on the stock turbos - so with more power than that you should be deeper into the 11 bracket.

What were the 60ft times?

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Ye, i dont light up street tyres - not much point other than to get the water off them (some strips are a bit 'liberal' with the water).

Although you going from 15psi to 18psi with bugger all power increase means you have a problem somewhere. With the -5s going from 15psi to 18psi should be a solid 20-30kw gain at least as you are moving right into the sweet spot.

120mph is good for low-mid 11's, it sounds more like you need to learn to pilot the car, launch etc.

Being i know of R32 GTR's running mid 11's on the stock turbos - so with more power than that you should be deeper into the 11 bracket.

What were the 60ft times?

Well it was the first go on the dyno he got 326kw maybe he didnt want to try it again just incase so he dropped it to 15psi and tried multiple times and got 316awkw.... for the 12.004 60ft i done 1.85 something like that. What you recon. Yeh well on the last take off was a maniac off the start held it at 7 grand i think i was too shocked on the take off which made me miss 2nd lol i had to put the clutch in and chuck in back in second still good for a 12.4 LOL

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I will tell you another down side about my car is when i got it, it had Ohlin shocks and they are very hard not good for drags, No dip. so i lowered the tyre pressure at the back to help a little. I will give it ago on wednesday and i will let you know how i went, i have to practice my take off and from 1st - 2nd i struggle because of the suspense of it all, once im on my way 3rd and 4th are pretty good.

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
Thats pretty damn good missing a gear n still doing a 12.4.

Jst wanna ask a question from anyone with a gtr; how is the traction in 1st gear? ive only ever done one launch at about 6000rpm n there wasnt much wheelspin.

The rears may turn a few times before the fronts, but generally its just grip and go.

Ive done a stack of 8000rpm clutch dumps and it just rockets off.

As Ash said though, every GTR out there is different

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
^ tyre, suspension, power etc etc are all factors, its not a simple answer
The rears may turn a few times before the fronts, but generally its just grip and go.

Ive done a stack of 8000rpm clutch dumps and it just rockets off.

As Ash said though, every GTR out there is different

True huh, should have added some things to that; more i wanted to know about a basic modded gtr with 245tyres, sports suspension and the basic bolt on upgrades/tune from 250-320awkw.

Reason why is that RWD cars can find it difficult to get down the quarter and it seems that GTR's seem to pull respectable times frequntly even with a novice driver (like me for instance)

e.g was watching high octane dvd and they were testing silvias from 300hp to 450hp and the quickest down the quarter was the lightly modded one @ 300hp.

The first and only launch ill ever do was fantastic, it just took off like a rocket with a few spins...whats it like with 300awkw (50more than what i have)

Anyways jst wantd to say congrats to the bloke n give a thumbs up to nissans awd system as it seems to do consistant launches without so much fine throttle balancing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...