Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got one you can have for $40 posted :( obviously only been used once :P

Hi all , need to be able to remove the 02 probe from my S2 R33 GTST and having had the heatshield out twice I think it's obvious that the only way is with a dedicated socket .

Can anyone suggest a brand of socket known to work on these cars .

Cheers A .

I don't want to destroy it , just remove it so a wide band can be used for tuning occasionally .

obviously it has to be long enough to seat properly on the hexagon but not so long that I can't get a square drive into it or a suitably sized spaniard if it has a hex on the top of it .

Also for some stupid reason I can't find any Snap On dealers contact numbers online for Southern Sydney .

I drove past the local truck this morning but had other places to be at the time .

Snap on Eddie - where are you !!!

Cheers Adrian .

Quick update , going to see George at Aus Tools Dulwich hill tomorrow .

He does a T&E branded 22mm oxygen sensor socket (2-7231) which has the hex on top for ~ $25 .

He's going to let me do a trial fit so I'll know if it'll work .

Cheers Adrian .

why not stick the wideband inside the exhaust tip ? I'm pretty sure that's what most tuners do when tuning ..well from what I've seen anyway.

But on 2nd thoughts, that does bring an interesting question to mind .. just how accurate are the readings from the tailpipe vs dump pipe. After all the gases coming out of tail pipe have already been filtered by the catalytic converter. HMM!

i changed nine as it had done over 40,000km. used 22mm (or 7/8") from KC tools it only just fit tho and i had to cut the old wires off..

also needed a f**king strong power bar as mine had been in for a good 110,000km... was time for a replacement!!!

a good tube socket would work BUT im guessing you wont be able to get the plug from the wires thru the centre..

i took mine off in less than 5 min.

i cut thru the metal bit on the outer shell & then used a long screw driver & hammer to smash thru the

ceramic centre. Once that was done any regular 22mm socket would fit.

i changed nine as it had done over 40,000km. used 22mm (or 7/8") from KC tools it only just fit tho and i had to cut the old wires off..

also needed a f**king strong power bar as mine had been in for a good 110,000km... was time for a replacement!!!

a good tube socket would work BUT im guessing you wont be able to get the plug from the wires thru the centre..

The o2 sensor shouldn't be done up super tight. They only need to be hand tight + a 1/4 or 1/2 turn or something. But I got mine off by using 2 spanners (lol) one angled onto the sensor as best as i could get cuz of the tight space, then use an adjustable spanner on the first spanner to lever it around and undo the sensor. easy :rofl:

thought i would post an update on before & after O2 sensor install.

with old o2 sensor :

* idle was a bit rough

* engine was running very rich with shocking fuel consumption.

after new universal o2 sensor

*idling perfectly in cold & warm

*fuel has leaned out & im very happy with the new fuel consumption.

* feels like there's a power gain, not sure though without a dyno test

* feels like there's a power gain, not sure though without a dyno test

it's all in your head mate. o2 sensor only comes into play on light load eg. cruising.

when giving it the berries the o2 sensor has zero effect.

:rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll want to have the block drilled and tapped to suit 1/2in head studs and the head for the same. How much power do you intend to make?
    • Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
×
×
  • Create New...