Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so a mate suggested to me the other day that since I am running standard injectors and fuel reg, that until I can afford to get a remap/Nistune RB20 tune done, that I should take out my Microtech LT10S (the usual overfueling, shit fuel economy, horrible cold starts, fouling plugs, the fact that WOT = smokescreen deployed, and a EPA warning letter on top of that!) and replace with a standard RB25 ECU (think its all wired up still into the R32 loom).

Now assuming that wiring is all okay, am I likely to run into any major issues from running FMIC, KKR 480 turbo (boost set to actuator pressure of 8 psi) and turbo back exhaust? The motor is a Series 1 Stagea motor, would I be any better off with the Stagea ECU or just a normal R33 Series 1 do?

I do have an airflow meter sitting in the intake pipe albeit disconnected, and the O2 & VCT are disconnected.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280128-microtech-removal-questions/
Share on other sites

hard to say, but personally I would think the only way you'll know for sure is try it. half of us will say it wont work, and the other half will say it will at the end of the day there is a sure fire way of knowing.....

I do have an airflow meter sitting in the intake pipe albeit disconnected, and the O2 & VCT are disconnected.

So do you intend on connecting them? AFM you won't get away with, the other 2 yes, but it's going to run like shit without VCT and o2.

If you can sort out the wiring, then provided you stick to 8psi then I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.

nah I will connect everything up, there are around 69000 R33's around here so I'm sure I'd be able to get a lend of one, its more fingers crossed that the loom hasn't been butchered, but I'm assuming that there's no major differences in fuel maps etc for Stagea vs R33?

Hopefully the ATTESSA *might* run with a stock ECU as well, but I'm not holding my breath.

Yeah it's mainly come about because I'm so sick and tired of the way the Microtech behaves, but then when you're travelling 400+km to get a decent tuner it's not a cheap exercise at all.

  • 1 month later...

spose ill do a bit of an update; finally got a stock computer, threw it in, hooked up AFM... and nothing! I'd forgotten that the Microtech had a relay set up in the boot for the fuel pump so stock computer wouldn't prime! I'll be getting a mate to rewire it for me in the near future, then we'll see what happens...

Ok so a mate suggested to me the other day that since I am running standard injectors and fuel reg, that until I can afford to get a remap/Nistune RB20 tune done, that I should take out my Microtech LT10S (the usual overfueling, shit fuel economy, horrible cold starts, fouling plugs, the fact that WOT = smokescreen deployed, and a EPA warning letter on top of that!) and replace with a standard RB25 ECU (think its all wired up still into the R32 loom).

Now assuming that wiring is all okay, am I likely to run into any major issues from running FMIC, KKR 480 turbo (boost set to actuator pressure of 8 psi) and turbo back exhaust? The motor is a Series 1 Stagea motor, would I be any better off with the Stagea ECU or just a normal R33 Series 1 do?

I do have an airflow meter sitting in the intake pipe albeit disconnected, and the O2 & VCT are disconnected.

the stagea ecu is remappable with a type 4 nistune board andif tuned right passes all the epa tests.

nah gonna sell it to some sucker with a dirty 30 or a rotary owner :)

URAS: I thought that the type 4 board was only compatable with the NEO ECU? That's how I read the Nistune website anyway. Mine is a Series 1 Stagea motor with the old school RB25 and ignitor module.

nah gonna sell it to some sucker with a dirty 30 or a rotary owner :)

URAS: I thought that the type 4 board was only compatable with the NEO ECU? That's how I read the Nistune website anyway. Mine is a Series 1 Stagea motor with the old school RB25 and ignitor module.

ah yep ser1 needs the z32 ecu trick, sorry should have read your post better sorry.

will likely not bother with Z32 and just go RB20 remap and ditch the VCT since I already have a stock RB20 ECU lying around.

best running a jaycar switch then, ive got some dyno tests i did here with and without the vct and the hole in the mid range is about 15-19rwkw deep....

  • 6 months later...

might bump this up again since I'm once again looking at this, I have no idea if the standard plug is for the R32 or R33 ECU, will this matter? when I plugged in the R33 ECU the fuel pump refused to prime, however there is a relay type thing for it in the wiring in the boot, would i need to circumvent that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...