Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sooooo do we need just one more person for this to go ahead?

Pretty sure we're good to go with 4 people. Jap rails are getting sent down in the next couple of days, and ccubed are organising individual invoices. Darrinspencer will have more details shortly... :P Hanging out to have a complete car again!

  • 2 years later...

Also, are they still available? (ie: another run?)

I do own a pair....That Darrinspencer currently has in his possesion...who i keep meaning to call( My apologies!!) that I will be selling due to the fact i know longer have a C34.

I do own a pair....That Darrinspencer currently has in his possesion...who i keep meaning to call( My apologies!!) that I will be selling due to the fact i know longer have a C34.

No stress mate, we are always too busy

Sorry to kill your possible sale

After waiting 13 months to get these made, the quality was shit.

They were suppose to take 6-8 weeks to get made!

Have a look when this thread originally started!!!

The guy was well capiable, recently making all the carbon work for Handbrake's mega R35 GTR build, but managed to totally give us a crap job and charge us for poor service.

I have had to fully bog the entire length to get them flat

Will be in primer either this weekend or next

They are not good enough to just paint and fit.

  • 2 weeks later...

Any of you guys tried to use the existing plates with some fibreglass mods to bolt them down and clean them up in the sections where the racks went through them?

Ive got a spare pair of rails i'm thinking of trying this with. Should cost much (like $20 in fibreglass and resin). I'm just assuming there is a reason it hasn't been tried yet

Any of you guys tried to use the existing plates with some fibreglass mods to bolt them down and clean them up in the sections where the racks went through them?

Ive got a spare pair of rails i'm thinking of trying this with. Should cost much (like $20 in fibreglass and resin). I'm just assuming there is a reason it hasn't been tried yet

I did have a original plan of fully covering the entire roof strip in 1 or 2 layers of fibreglass, then bog and sand and paint.

The problem with the roof strips they are covered in a rubber/plastic coat over s/steel metal.

Too hard to remove the coating, plus the front end is approx 4-5cm long of solid plastic, not metal.

Still worth a try.

Pics of the fibreglass ones we bought

This was last weekend. Now both sanded and getting undercoated this weekend

Edited by darrinspencer

I did have a original plan of fully covering the entire roof strip in 1 or 2 layers of fibreglass, then bog and sand and paint.

The problem with the roof strips they are covered in a rubber/plastic coat over s/steel metal.

Too hard to remove the coating, plus the front end is approx 4-5cm long of solid plastic, not metal.

Still worth a try.

Pics of the fibreglass ones we bought

This was last weekend. Now both sanded and getting undercoated this weekend

this is what u should of done before u painted urs Darrin

post-41608-0-98445200-1319227463_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Does anyone have a picture of how the roof is bonded to the chassis?

I'm having my Stag re-sprayed in a few months time & the paint shop says it's dinted to hell & may be better to replace entire roof. I would love to find a dual sunroof car & convert mine.

3 quotes I've had so far range from $6600 to $9000 for full job including fitting this kit (supplied by me) http://www.freeway-dolphin.co.jp/aeroform/stagea/nissan_stagea_c34-wh.htm

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...