Zebra's 2010 Mra Gts-t Build

[zebra]

not much going on here atm...been raining heaps...so for all i know the car is full of water.

Been trying to come up with some dash designs...thinking Autometer Tach with peak recall and boost and oil pressure replacing the factory cluster.

and the Greddy E-01 display, the tech-edge display and oil, exhaust gas and water temp guages replacing the stereo/ac controls and having a switch panel and the E-01 controller mounted either under all that or on the trans tunnel behind the gear lever all done on aluminium sheet.

So does any one have pics of their track skyline that retains the factory upper dash board.

[MBS206]

not much going on here atm...been raining heaps...so for all i know the car is full of water.

Been trying to come up with some dash designs...thinking Autometer Tach with peak recall and boost and oil pressure replacing the factory cluster.

and the Greddy E-01 display, the tech-edge display and oil, exhaust gas and water temp guages replacing the stereo/ac controls and having a switch panel and the E-01 controller mounted either under all that or on the trans tunnel behind the gear lever all done on aluminium sheet.

So does any one have pics of their track skyline that retains the factory upper dash board.

What are you doing in regards to the heater controls?

I want to keep "something" so I can defog the front window (as it's registered, I "need" to keep the heater + fan for window)

I'm thinking a switch for fan on/off, and have it constantly set to "Window" when I turn a switch on? (As powered off, it switches to feet)

I'm just going sheet alu in there, with at least boost, oil temp, oil pressure and water temp. Might throw fuel pressure in too if I get enough room.

I think Duncan has a sweet setup in the GTR, from memory 1 large central guage, and 4 "orbiting" guages around it filing that spot in.

[zebra]

everything heater related with end up in a bin lol...no need for it

[zebra]

I spent the morning pulling out the abomination of a wiring job under the dash...what a mess!!! ill get some pics of what i have pulled out in a min.

Also got a great deal on an autometer 2 5/8" liquid filled pro-comp water temp guage yesterday, $300 bucks off the RRP so thanks Repco just need to get a 3/8" BSP adapter and it will fit where the factory radiator temp sender goes.

I still cant get my E-01 boost controller working it turns on but i cant change any of the screens or access the menu ...luckily i got it cheap so i might send it off to get repaired if I can.

Also bought a RPM 5-point 3" Harness the other day so once i get my new seat in. ill start looking at mounting it up.

Which brings me to a question....where do you guys mount the crotch strap? through the floor? or in the the cross brace the the factory seats mount to at the front?

[Duncan]

really depends where your seat ends up. mine is very adjustable because Kel and I are a little different in height so I bolted it to the cross bar (with appropriate plates to brace).

but through the floor with large reinforcing plates directly below the hole in the seat is the best place

[zebra]

really depends where your seat ends up. mine is very adjustable because Kel and I are a little different in height so I bolted it to the cross bar (with appropriate plates to brace).

but through the floor with large reinforcing plates directly below the hole in the seat is the best place

cool ill go through the floor then i think...just have to wait until the seat is in before drilling holes and welding in plates.

Here is the rats nest that was the wiring for the Alarm..... there was 4 relays, 2 random fuses that would have been impossible to change if one blew and i had to pull out half the fuse box under the dash to get most of it out...

Dash is a work in progress..going to make up a switch panel next chance i get...also need to finish stripping the passenger side of the car and make up 2 ECU mounts (EMU and standard ECU)...then its in with the dry ice and out with the sound deadener

[zebra]

Click Me Please

Do I want this?

Been thinking about it since duncan's idea to put one on his nugget.

[Duncan]

hahah another flux capacitor! don't follow my lead, who knows if the damn thing will do the job!?!

BTW I can't get seats...they are out of stock indefinately. Just Jap are next cheapest place I know.

[BOZ22N]

He He He

[zebra]

FLUX CAPACITOR IS A GO!

I have this bad boy on the way from the states ICE BOX CLICKY CLICKY

Also ordered this from UAS today

3.5" Kakimoto stainless cat back.

Sucks about those seats dunc, ill sort somthing out though

[zebra]

pic for matty

[BOZ22N]

They are for drag cars bud, and i have heard of them freezing throttle bodies open.

Just use the old air to air front mount, cheap and easy.

[zebra]

They are for drag cars ,

[zebra]

Not enough room to fit a biggish water to air cooler on the drivers side to feed the greddy copy with out some rediculously tight bends...with is next to impossible to do with 3" piping.

So it looks like im going back to the standard lower half plenum runners, and i will get a center feed 6 litre plenum made up to suit a 90mm throttle body, with the I/C on the passenger side. unless sombody can show my a big power car using the standard plenum and t/b (600ish hp at the crank).

Edit...shuld have said 4.5L plenum...dunno where I got 6 from lol

[Duncan]

did you look into putting where the battery/fuse box was like we did? the bend from the frontmost exit from the cooler to the plenum is not too bad. then the rear exit from the cooler goes up and over the motor to the turbo(s).

ryan...I can imagine freezing problems if you are running dry ice thru it for drag purposes....but I assume andrew will be running regular coolant through a second radiator and electric water pump like we will

[zebra]

yeah thats where i wanted it done...but its just a bees dick away from fitting..that side of the engine bay is too shallow (no battery in the bay on a 33) and the core is 4.5" this and 12" x 12.25" basicly the outlet of the core is smack bang where the throttle body is..and even if i could get a bend int there to join it up i wont be able to shut the bonnet

and yes you are correct running water and radiator .....i will have a 2.6gal alloy resovior that is designed to take normal ice cubes to cool the water for sprints and yes the quarter..i wanna do a bit of drag racing aswell..so watch out for a rather large turbo setup that may be familiar to some of us NSW members.

dunc what pump are you gonna run...im either gonna use a davies craig pump or the bosch / ford motorsport / AMG one if the dollar is good.

P.s look here for good shiz for the nugget setup http://www.frozenboost.com

[Risking]

I wouldn't bother wasting your time or resources doing a water to air.

If you want 600hp that's a walk in the park even for the cheap Chinese coolers on the market

the expense you are going to go to setting it up and making it work could be far better spent on other things or even better put it away for a dry sump setup latter down the track.

People don't care what's different on a race car they care about what works and is simple.

An air to air is as simple as it gets and inexpensive.

At the end of the day the negatives out weigh the positives

extra weight, complexity of plumbing, extra water joints that can leak. Extra water lines that can fail, more water pumps and resiviours required. Additional radiator needed for the system. Additional fans and pump controllers/wiring.

My oppinion way to much shit to potentially go wrong when the only major gain is possibly a few degrees off the inlet temps IF you get the whole thing right. And maybe a little less cooler piping which won't make squat difference anyways.

[zebra]

I had the same thoughts as you brad to begin with...but the more i researched the idea the more it grew on me...while yes the extra weight and complexity are down sides it really isnt all that complex a setup, and much less complex than a dry sump which has the same sort of issues you mentioned just with oil instead of water.

I doubt that I will end up racing this car properly now anyhow because i no longer have the buget to fund a full race season. so really its just becoming a mule to try a few things over time, maybe it will fail, maybe it will reel off 1000hp.

either way ill be happy I did it my way and not just stick with whats the norm...which is a bit ironic being that the car is a 33 gtst lol

[MBS206]

not just stick with whats the norm...which is a bit ironic being that the car is a 33 gtst lol

QFT! ROFL

You keep giving me inspiration... The poor new garage I'm moving too isn't going to know what hits it when my car gets there... (And it's a brand new garage+house... LOL...)

I need to rework my dash a bit too, looking at some custom shit around the factory speedo/alternator.

[zebra]

not much to report....decided to completly re wire the thing after i move...the whole car is a mess so i think the only safe thing to do is re wire it from scratch with one of these.

http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?Cat...p;PrdGrpID=4180.

I think ill only need the 12 circuit one as all i can think ill need would be

1. fuel pump

2. ign

3. brake lights

4. starter

5. wind screen wipers

6. guages / dash

7. water pump for the flux capacitor

8. head lights

9. windows (if i dont go lexan)

If i have missed any thing please let me know.