Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I have a Series one r33. My current mods are Power FC, FMIC, turbo back exhaust, splitfire coilpacks, Walbro 550hp fuel pump, Boost controller, z32 afm, pretty much all the basics.

It makes just over 200rwkw in its current state at 14psi. Just wondering what would be my most effective next modification?? I didnt want to spend thousands on turbo upgrades just yet, definetly down the track, I was thinking more along the lines of a cam package? Im not too familiar with what sort of cams will be right for my application. Just wondering about your thoughts and experiences with what works etc.?? Details and brands would be much help.

Any help and input is appriciated

Thanks

Edited by RB JET
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281077-upgrading/
Share on other sites

Ok so I may have to just bite the bullet and stop being a tight ass!! lol. The highflow idea sounds good, I already have some 550cc injectors here in my garage that i picked up a couple of months ago, and the 230 to 240rwkws is probably where i want to get to next.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281077-upgrading/#findComment-4739186
Share on other sites

Ok so I may have to just bite the bullet and stop being a tight ass!! lol. The highflow idea sounds good, I already have some 550cc injectors here in my garage that i picked up a couple of months ago, and the 230 to 240rwkws is probably where i want to get to next.

replacing injecotrs in a RB25 is a bitch.....i did mine a while back and never doing them again.....no skin left on my fat hands lol....but yeah 250 with a responsive turbo is the way to go for a street car......555cc injectors with a highflowed turbo and a really good tune should see you over the 240 mark no probs...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281077-upgrading/#findComment-4740050
Share on other sites

replacing injecotrs in a RB25 is a bitch.....i did mine a while back and never doing them again.....no skin left on my fat hands lol....but yeah 250 with a responsive turbo is the way to go for a street car......555cc injectors with a highflowed turbo and a really good tune should see you over the 240 mark no probs...

Yeah tell me about it. I had my stock ones cleaned a while back and took them out and put them back in. NEVER again!!! Ill just pay my tuner to do it. Itll take him half the time most probably!!

Ok great so high flow turbo here we come. Who is generally the best to do high flows?? Any in Brisbane??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281077-upgrading/#findComment-4740768
Share on other sites

Yeah tell me about it. I had my stock ones cleaned a while back and took them out and put them back in. NEVER again!!! Ill just pay my tuner to do it. Itll take him half the time most probably!!

Ok great so high flow turbo here we come. Who is generally the best to do high flows?? Any in Brisbane??

There are a couple of places not sure if they are in Brisbane though.....GCG, Hypergear, ATS, MTQ....so a few options

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281077-upgrading/#findComment-4742097
Share on other sites

Yeah tell me about it. I had my stock ones cleaned a while back and took them out and put them back in. NEVER again!!! Ill just pay my tuner to do it. Itll take him half the time most probably!!

Ok great so high flow turbo here we come. Who is generally the best to do high flows?? Any in Brisbane??

What are your power goals, how much hp are you thinking of?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281077-upgrading/#findComment-4742099
Share on other sites

how well does the current setup hookup and how do u find it to drive

how well was it tuned do you know

ive found theres oodles of response and nice-ness locked away in a basic max power tune

Its not too bad, pretty responsive and doesnt chew the fuel (450-500kms per tank depending on the weight of my foot), It made 205.6rwkw but my knock level was around 50-60. So I think he played with it a bit, the final result was 201.4rwkw and max knock was around 35-40. Ive had it tuned previously at a reputable workshop (wont mention names), and it made 185rwkw with knock at about 50-60 so it was then retuned at my current tuner (BPS in Brisbane). I havent been in any other skylines with pfc so i wouldnt be able to compare.

Id be happy with 250rwkw, just so it stays reliable because after all it is my daily driver too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281077-upgrading/#findComment-4742779
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...