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Hi Guys!

Just wondering what bolt on turbo you guys would reccommend for a R33 GTST series 2 with the basic mods, such as'

3" full exhaust system turbo back

big front mount intercooler

bigger fuel pump

aftermarket ECU

boost controller

i dont want to touch the injectors etc etc, so what would be the best turbo for the mods listed above. Im trying to get good response out of my car and im not looking for huge HP!! just something that will boost quickly and be able to make my car cope with the basic mods i would have.

any info would be great!

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If you are after good response and power, with very little lag compared to the stock turbo, I would have thought something like a HKS GT2835, or similar.

The 2530 are good too, but I think they are better suited to a 2L.

You will most likely need to look at a Z32 AFM, fuel pressure reg and upgrade clutch too.

GT30 should do you fine.. Something i'm considering

HKS units are great, but for their price and being tuned for higher boost levels and top end, mean they're more suited to fully rebuilt engines, etc. If you're goal is a very streetable 230-250rwkw at a low cost, i'd be considering a garrett rather than the HKS. There is also the option of highflowing your existing turbo (maybe the cheapest of all), but i'm against that a little.

Mack,

hi-flowing the RB25 turbo will cost up to $2k, where you can possibly get a brand new Garrett GT25 for about that and then sell off your RB25 turbo.

if you're interested, a friend of mine is looking at selling his HKS GT2540 (inc. uprated HKS actuator).

PM me if interested.

Originally posted by Steve

If you are after good response and power, with very little lag compared to the stock turbo, I would have thought something like a HKS GT2835, or similar.

The 2530 are good too, but I think they are better suited to a 2L.

You will most likely need to look at a Z32 AFM, fuel pressure reg  and upgrade clutch too.

2510 is best suited to 2litre, 2530 is fine on an rb25, and will deliver crazy response, the 2835 will not have response similar to stock, as even the smaller 2540 starts to get laggy.

im getting very close to getting my 2530 tuned!

you wont need z32 afm with a setup like this unless you run high boost levels.

eg for my setup with std comp ratio i plan to run a comfortable reliable 1.1bar maybe just a tad more, and have an easy 230+rwkw.

clutch will def need to be done.

i will definitly be posting my results as i believe people on here are yet to see the full potential of the little HKS baby 2530!! Not a rwkw king but with a high "average power" as sydney kid emphasises, should be a quick machine with power and torque everywhere.

Have you ever driven a 2L with a 2510. Depends on what you call 'well suited' I suppose. I dont have any experience with 2510, but do with 2530 on RB20 - it was the perfect street/strip turbo, 230rwkw at 1.2 bar, pulling hard from under 3krpm.

The 2530 is THE turbo for a 2 litre.

And if you dont use a z32 with 230rwkw at the wheels, you will only be able to tune at one boost level and have to leave it there. So no you wont have to upgrade if you dont ever want to change boost settings.

td06-20g with a 8cm^2 exhaust housing... either way you got make sure it has a T3 flange and it will bolt into the stock manifold, for good boost controll you want an external wastegate, but if the budget wont stretch that for just go for an internal gated turbo but maybe a HKS wastegate actuator with a nice stiff spring.

Dean, the Z32 uses a is the same size as an RB AFM, ie 80mm diameter.

The big difference is it allows greater tuning resolution.

The RB AFM starts to get close to max voltage (5.1V) at around 190rwkw - this has been my exerience anyways. Not too much of a problem at that stage, but it gets worse as power increases.

This is where problems start to arise, as when you tune the car it is off the O2 sensor on the dyno, but the ECU doesnt know what is happening after the afm hits peak flow voltage.

If you tuned the car on 1.1bar and had say 220rwkw, the AFM will have hit peak voltage well before the max power has been reached. If you turn the boost down to 1 bar and say 210rwkw, the afm still sees the same 5.1v and still provides the same amount of fuel for the 1.1bar that it was tuned at. Overfueling will follow. If you turn the boost up, well of course you will be under fueling.

There are a few more possible flow on issues associated, but you get the idea.

Now a Z32 AFM still only reads 5.1V peak, BUT that is at alot higher airflow. So where an RB afm may read 4V, the Z32 only read 3.5V, for 5V on the RB, the Z32 may only read 4.1V - these figures are arbitary and for example only.

I originally had my RB afm hit peak voltage at around 190rwkw, I then upgrade to Z32, and had a peak or around 4.2V, with a better tune, managed 203rwkw with 4.4V max.

Even now with close to 260rwkw, the AFM still hasnt hit 5.1V, thank god, or my next tune could be messy:)

Predator, HSK 3037S56T,

Dean, you can tune it, as you use the dyno O2 sensor, but you cant run different boost levels and keep the tune correct. Different boost levels can be an advantage when it is raining, or if you are driving in heavy traffic and dont want to do any sudden lane changes. Also it depends on how power is delivered. My turbo is like hitting NOs when it comes on boost, so it is a bit silly running much over 1 bar in traffic, less in the wet.

I dont know if BOOSTD has one.

  • 1 month later...

The more I read these types of threads the more I get confused :Oops:

One good thing I have learnt though is that average rwkw is better than peak rwkw for drivability and better overall performance.

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